Yamaha Waveblaster 2 Makeover - Noob to Neo hopefully (HELP!)

[Benn]

Hey fellas!

New here, all the way from South Africa - Yeah that cheap sunny place that becomes a favourite destination for many. Usually accidentally

Anywho...

I bought a yellow Yamaha Waveblaster 2 - Less than about 30 hours on it, engine is still new. The bad... It’s not as neat on the outside so I’d like to give it a makover. I want to get it in mint condition

It’s my first ski, I’ve wanted a WB 2 for years and now I have one, unfortunately it has some uglies. I’m a painful perfectionist and these uglies are REALLY bugging me. As in I can’t sleep until they are fixed. Yup, I expect to have many sleepless nights then

I’m quite a noob, so I really need help, and detailed help. Taking the ski to the local dealer/marine workshop isn’t desired, I just have never had good experience with letting other people work on my things, especially workshops. Probably because my expectations are too high (I can admit that) and they don’t care as much as I would. I would be open to maybe taking the ski/parts to specialists (Perhaps the hull work) but a dealer doing everything won’t work for me. Nevertheless I need to understand what would be involved exactly to make those decisions and find a place that can help.

Some info about me and my workspace: I don’t have a workshop, I’m conservatively about a 4/10 mechanically (10 being a full-time mechanic) and I have the basic tools. No power tools but I can buy. I have a space where I can work but don’t have hoists and dollys to transfer the ski to. Only the trailer it came on. Dismantling the entire ski wouldn’t be ideal due to some space constraints, unless it’s necessary to do a proper job. It needs to be a proper job.

Please bare with me, I’m new and I’ll ask and say a lot of stupid stuff at the start, I’ll get better though. I’ve read everything I can, many different approaches and opinions, so I need help in getting to the right answers.

As I go along I’ll probably discover more uglies, and some work I might have to pass on to a specialist here - But I’ll need help understanding everything in detail to assess my options and way forward. Here goes:

The work list

Hull

Problems:

1. The hull has some scratches with some being a bit deeper than others.
2. Some chips exposing the fiberglass.
3. Chips on top of white part of hull.
4. Front of the hull has a damaged area under the bumper rail.
5. A bit faded and not shiny anymore.
6. It’s gunky inside the hull - How do I clean the inside of the hull? Will the polystyrene not rot if it gets water from cleaning inside?

How do I go about it getting it mint again - Ideally I would like to avoid having to do the entire hull.

Q’s:

1. How to treat each problem exactly?
2. Some say it’s an SMC hull, others say Fglass?
3. How do I remove the bumper rail to get to the damaged area under the bumper? Refit the bumper rails?
4. What exact materials and machines do I need? Where to get the specialist materials and what to ask for?
5. How do a get the repaired areas to the same colour and finish yellow?
6. How do I get to the underside of the ski? Do I do one side first (have it tilted on it’s side) or would I have to have the entire hull exposed?
7. The water spout exits in a funny way, don’t know why it was done - I’d like to make it standard again? Looks like a small rubber pipe through the side of hull and silicone to seal the area.

Cosmetic bits:

1. Bumper rails & inserts: On the left of the ski there is a section of damaged bumper rail (Purple and yellow insert) - Does anyone know where I can buy some, they are obviously discontinued, but are they available second hand? Any leads?

1. Front Yellow plastic cover - How do I restore some of it’s colour, it is faded.
2. I need the original graphic and size of the stickers for the cover - does anyone have this on file? I can then have it printed.

1. The top hull has some small paint specs on the white sections. How do I get rid of them and get some shine back to the ski? Will the decals survive?
2. The guy installed this horrible mustard yellow seat cover - Where can I get the correct yellow cover snd apply the graphic to the seat? Any originals ones available?

Mechanical:

Everything mechanically seems ok for now, I will update the thread as I discover things. But in the meanwhile some suggestions about what I can specifically check for.

1. The metal part below the steering nozzle - Is that something that can be sandblasted and powdercoated? Any preference to ice blast/bead blast and type of paint and process?
2. Can I redo the intake grate the same way or just replace it?
3. The point where the nozzle attaches to the steering link seems to have a slit - Is it a crack or supposed to be there?

Electrical:

1. The fuel indicator indicates an empty tank - The tank is full though. What do I do and how do I do it properly?
2. The battery needs a small wooden block to keep it down underneath the battery straps - Is this because the original battery was bigger? What do the guys use?

General:

1. Where is the best place to order parts from assuming many parts are not available anymore?
2. Are there any other ski’s that parts are still available for whose components are interchangeable?
3. Any guys stripping WB2’s at the moment?
4. Anything else I should be looking at that would have failed over the years that I might want to look for or replace proactively?

Tools:

1. Would an angle grinder and cordless drill or cordless drill and orbital sander be a better purchase to help with everything?
2. Or would a cordless drill be able to do everything if I get the correct discs? Heat gun?

I’d like to keep the ski 100% original - From my research it’s pretty good in standard trim. I want a very clean ski, reliable and something to have fun on. I’m not going to race it but I’ll be playing around in some waves probably.

I’ve done quite a bit of research but the advice varies so much that you need quite a bit of experience to separate good advice from bad advice - I don’t have enough experience to do this, so please help a guy out

Scared but looking forward to a clean ski!

PS - Please explain things like you would a child, I’m new with the lingo and especially where the hull work is involved.

BIG THANKS to everyone that would be willing to contribute here.

 

[Sanoman]

First welcome to the X! Great bunch here and for the most part willing to help.
One trick here is to go on google or yahoo and ask questions on there.Normally it will redirect you back here or PWC today.But keep in mind some of the advise you will read is just plain crap,almost like FB.

Right off,make you a wooden stand with some wheels (that will hold the weight of the blaster) that is at a good height for you to work and not kill your back.So start reading and good luck!

 

[Benn]

Go

First welcome to the X! Great bunch here and for the most part willing to help.
One trick here is to go on google or yahoo and ask questions on there.Normally it will redirect you back here or PWC today.But keep in mind some of the advise you will read is just plain crap,almost like FB.

Right off,make you a wooden stand with some wheels (that will hold the weight of the blaster) that is at a good height for you to work and not kill your back.So start reading and good luck!

Good advice to kick things off - Any idea on dimensions and details?

Re searching - I’ve searched myself into a flatspin and every other post says something different unfortunately.

Hopefully it can be a concise and thorough affair on this thread. I will continue reading though, difficult when you don’t know enough to know what to decide...

Thanks for the welcome by the way!

 

[Benn]

Perhaps I should split into separate topics to get a better response...

Must urgent thing is the bumper rail - Does anyone have any leads on one for sale? Purple/yellow left side bumper rail.




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[Sanoman]

Post up your question in Marketplace “Want to Buy” and you will get better results.

As far as making a stand,measure from the center of the pump out to the first “strake”,at the center top of the curve should be somewhere around 7”-8” inches.Double that and you will have the width for the two main rails,where the hull will rest.Then look around for images of sturdy stands that will hold at least 400 pounds.
This is not a clear pic,but you get the idea!

 

[Big Kahuna]

12 1/2" centered 2x4 is your spacing for a stand.

 

[Sanoman]

12 1/2" centered 2x4 is your spacing for a stand.

Thanks!

 

[Benn]

Can anyone tell me definitively what materials/resins/gelcoats to use on my hull work?

I’ve read so many threads in the “Hull” section of the forum and some say my hull is SMC and can only use epoxy resin and NOT gelcoat.

Others say you can use gelcoat...

There are deep scratches (exposed fglass) and chips that I want to repair and get looking perfect again with the correct colour as well.

1. Is my hull SMC or Fglass?
2. Can I use gelcoat and which ones exactly?
3. Pigment?
4. Epoxy or Poly resin?


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[Sanoman]

Only use epoxy resin on your hull.Gelcoat is a top coat and IMHO more weight.Not really worth the effort to apply.Someone correct me,but l believe your hull is made out of smc.For sure then the poly will not stick.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Use Epoxy.......

 

[WB800BLASTER]

go to group k web site some good info about the WB2.

http://www.groupk.com/y753b2.htm

Can you send me some bull tong and Lunch bars?

Pat

 

[Benn]

Ok so here are the nice pictures of the ski:

Engine bay is quite clean:

Now the uglies - Refer to my original post with my Q’s


The Hull:
Deep scratches - About 1mm

Front lip behind bumper

Chips

That pesky DIY water cooling spout out the hull

Some fine paint specs on the white part of the hull (How do I remove this???)

And finally - How do I go about polishing the ski and getting it to pop colour as much as possible? Especially the faded front cover?



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[Benn]

Only use epoxy resin on your hull.Gelcoat is a top coat and IMHO more weight.Not really worth the effort to apply.Someone correct me,but l believe your hull is made out of smc.For sure then the poly will not stick.

So from my research I think it’s fglass - Inside there is SMC glued in where the engine mounts, but below it it’s FGlass

Based on the pictures - If I’m after the best and nicest looking solution, would gelcoat not work?

If I use epoxy - What else would I do to get the right colour and finish?


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[mikidymac]

The epoxy is just for structural repairs and everything I see in your pictures are cosmetic not structural except for the crack under the rub rail.

I would just get a EverCoat Gelcoat repair kit for all the cosmetic repair.

For the rub rail either leave it or just patch it with some marine-Tex since you won’t see it.

To restore the color mask off the graphics then wet sand with 1,000 paper all the way up to 2,000 then buff with medium cut compound then fine cut then machine glaze and wax then it will look brand new.

The plastic parts are the most difficult but you could try some plastic polish like spammyspam.


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[Benn]

The epoxy is just for structural repairs and everything I see in your pictures are cosmetic not structural except for the crack under the rub rail.

I would just get a EverCoat Gelcoat repair kit for all the cosmetic repair.

For the rub rail either leave it or just patch it with some marine-Tex since you won’t see it.

To restore the color mask off the graphics then wet sand with 1,000 paper all the way up to 2,000 then buff with medium cut compound then fine cut then machine glaze and wax then it will look brand new.

The plastic parts are the most difficult but you could try some plastic polish like spammyspam.


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Thanks for all that detail!

Just some questions

1. Would it be ok to patch with markne-Tex and THEN gelcoat if I want the colour to be correct? (yes I know it would be hidden)

2. What is Marine-tex - Would need to find alternative in South Africa so need to know exactly what it is.

3. If I can’t find it - What is an alternative?

4. So I would do the entire hull to get the colour back: Would I not be removing any clear coat by mistake then? Can I use a polishing machine for this? Or does it have to be straight lines by hand?

5. I suppose any hardware/auto specialist would know which medium and fine cut product to recommend - anything I should know about what might be better for marine application?

6. Medium and fine cut - Does that refer to the grit of the compound applied? Do you use a polishing wheel and apply that to it? Which type of polish wheel (Wool etc?)

6. What is a machine glaze - Assuming the auto specialist/paint shop would know?

Sorry for the million questions - Just want to be sure, so easy to destroy paintwork!

Oh and lastly - I would fill with scratches and chips with the gelcoat and apply that clear plastic film to set: Would it need to bulge a bit to not contract and become a bit hollow in the place I filled? How do you achieve that when you apply that plastic piece over it which then flattens it out?


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[Benn]

Does anyone know where I can get hold of the workshop and owners manual for the ski?

The various bearings used - If I use the part numbers found in these manuals, would I be able to get the spec for them should I need to use a local supplier?

I’d like a digital version of these manuals if at all possible...


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[WB800BLASTER]

pm me your email and i will send you a pdf of it.

I also have the 97 manual, green in color BUT had stock trim. If you can find the bottom half of the hood, nozzle and trim hardware its a nice add on for the B2. I can also send some picks on how to add it to a 96 B2

 

[mikidymac]

Just some questions

1. Would it be ok to patch with markne-Tex and THEN gelcoat if I want the colour to be correct? (yes I know it would be hidden)
Yes.
2. What is Marine-tex - Would need to find alternative in South Africa so need to know exactly what it is.
It is a 2 part marine epoxy for doing repairs. You mix the 2 parts and then it hardens after some time.
3. If I can’t find it - What is an alternative?

4. So I would do the entire hull to get the colour back: Would I not be removing any clear coat by mistake then? Can I use a polishing machine for this? Or does it have to be straight lines by hand?
The hull is gelcoat so there is no clear coat. You are removing to top oxidized layer. If your hull isn't really bad and chalky you don't need to do the wet sanding, just the polishing and your's doesn't look that bad.
5. I suppose any hardware/auto specialist would know which medium and fine cut product to recommend - anything I should know about what might be better for marine application?
I like the Meguiar's Marine line since it has a lot more lubricants and oils for gelcoat that the automotive products don't have.
6. Medium and fine cut - Does that refer to the grit of the compound applied? Do you use a polishing wheel and apply that to it? Which type of polish wheel (Wool etc?)
Yes, I would start with Meguiar's Marine Power Cut then finish with their High Gloss Polish.
6. What is a machine glaze - Assuming the auto specialist/paint shop would know?
It is the final polish with the least grit like Meguiar's Marine High Gloss Polish.
Sorry for the million questions - Just want to be sure, so easy to destroy paintwork!

Oh and lastly - I would fill with scratches and chips with the gelcoat and apply that clear plastic film to set: Would it need to bulge a bit to not contract and become a bit hollow in the place I filled? How do you achieve that when you apply that plastic piece over it which then flattens it out?
Yes, sometimes it take 2 applications to get it where you can sand and polish it smooth. It will not be perfect but better than seeing fiberglass.

In all honesty your ski is so clean I would just wax it and go but if anything just use a polish and it should be perfect. The nice thing with a finish polish is you can even go over the stickers and it will not hurt them. Anything more aggressive an you will have to mask off all the stickers or you will burn through them.


Here’s my Blaster 2

 

[Freakrider]

Only use epoxy resin on your hull.Gelcoat is a top coat and IMHO more weight.Not really worth the effort to apply.Someone correct me,but l believe your hull is made out of smc.For sure then the poly will not stick.

The B2 is a 396 lbs hand laid fiberglass hull and is actually made in Japan. This was my first ski in 1999 and I still have it in great running condition garage kept. Also in 1996 was named "Watercraft of the year." I have the original 1996 brochure. Yes this is my 21st year of jetskis.

 

[Sanoman]

Thanks for clarifying that it is glass freakrider!