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Stock 96 thru 07 = 79 hp. From the factory. Means nothing. The best motor in the world sux if the pump sux. HP to the prop is not measurable. Therefore, HP means nothing. Include the pump and it's specs: means nothing after a ride or two. Wear ring has changed, all has changed. Horsepower...

#1: Glad you're doing your best to stay legal. #2: Legal is different in different states. #3: Removing decals sux beyond belief. Bedliner stuff? Holy crap! I ended up prepping and painting an entire ski after gauging the hull 1000's of times with the razor knife. (skillfully) Ha! No advise...

I love "how do I spend my money" threads. lol. Sillyness. Buy stock in Enron.

It needed 4 CDI's.

Consider moving this to the "wanted" section. I'm sure pole are out there!

To be clear: I am fully supportive of aux-electric bilging systems. The more the merrier. Especially for surf and tricksters. I am also a supporter of the stock bilging system even though it's not visible when working. Electrical issue? Broken wire? It works as long as the pump is turning. Many...

Scuppers suck. And, unless you are in freestyle competition, you don't need one. They all leak. All of them. The average recreational rider can tool around, watching the bilge outlet until it stops. Competition riders need to empty fast and perform another trick. It's one of those things that...

Yamabond or something similar can't hurt when sealing the flywheel cover. Although the starters are "O-ring sealed", I've always used 5200 as an extra between metal surfaces. This means pulling the motor to do it properly, but it's worked for me so far.

I hate to disagree with watcon, but bigger carbs = more air. 38's are plenty for 760 and beyond. What's your compression....AM head? And what fuel are you running? 87.. 89...93? Just curious.

That's why we love you Fred! You know stuff.

Water is the natural solvent. Sodium chloride is soluble in water. Add engine heat, and even more so. Salt ions are positively charged. To attract salt ions, a negatively charged additive will be needed. Water will do it over time. Most dissolved solids in water (fresh) are negatively charged...

Generally, replacing the coil and wires together is the way to go, if that's what's wrong. I've had backfire issues in the past that turned out to be a bad CDI. Been down the road of measuring resistance checking the stator... the average meter is not sufficient for measuring the readings spec'd...

I'll be happy to go thru a starter every 7 years! On my 6th I will be over 80 years old!

Not even sure if it's bad at this point. I tend to agree.... mostly because a thread (a while ago) scared the crap out of me. Something to do with 3 tabs that I never knew to look at.

Weather has not been great for 2 weeks or so. Really good waves 2 Sunday's ago.... Anyway, I figured I'd fire it up in the driveway as I do when it hasn't been ridden for a week or more. No go. Starter or bendix sounds awful. Pulled the plugs to take some load off. Spun over good for a few...

Agree on the Worx 201 intake. However, the stock rideplate with a "D" cut is weak, in that, any air tricks, bad landings etc... well, mine was bent to crap in a few rides. Ended up with a Worx Dominator.....yea, the long one, but cut it off at stock length. It has a modest d-hole in it and works...

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/riva_normal/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=yamahapwc&a=109&b=15&c=0&d=2004 SJ700B SUPER JET BILGE SYSTEM Yes. This is Yamaha, but it works the same.

Good thread James!

It's gotta go up near the hood seal.

BTW: You've got 1000 gal per hour of electric bilging + the stock bilge system ( pics don't show scuppers ) but your OP states that you got the ski this way. It's unusual that a modded ski owner would keep the stock bilge and not opt to use the bilge line for dual cooling. This is a praise, not...