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Glad it worked out. Engine looks squeaky clean already. Sweet looking ski. I am not that familiar with Air Blair hulls. How does it ride?

The link is https://www.mcmaster.com/9464k114 2 for $2.86 (+$7 shipping) I did call pro-tec tech line at (951) 698-8988 to verify which o-ring size I needed (they have a small and a large for varying thickness of the o-ring). They were great help! Suggest calling them if you have any doubt...

Agreed. That is what I have always gone by as well. Did not mean to indicate that 10% diff is acceptable earlier in the thread.

... and it is back to running GREAT in the water. Probably only a few more wetsuit rides left this season, but nice to have it running 100% again

Nice find! You will enjoy this well taken care of ski. Have fun making it look like it actually gets ridden [emoji3]

Put in new Pro X pistons. Looks great compared to the mess I had. 180 psi in each cylinder. Motor starts and runs on one cylinder. Same for each cylinder! Yeah! Thanks everyone for all the help on this one.

Great 10 year old thread. Ordered and installed the McMaster orings in my protec head, and worked great!

I guess I should have called this thread “running on 1.5 pistons”. Guessing I need to pull the motor and make sure the crank shaft is not damaged and is clean of metal particles, then replace the piston(s). I am new to getting inside a motor. Any helpful steps I should know about? What piston...

Holy crap. There is a piston eating monster in my motor. The crumbs must be somewhere? In the crank? How could it function if all that piston metal is in it?

I put in the new orings and sealed the head with RTV. Compression in both cylinders is now 170 psi. It still does not run on the rear cylinder only (it does run on the front cylinder only) I gave it a quick test ride, and it ran a little better, but basically the same really. I pulled the head...

Jetskisolutions.com does a nice job replacing spark plug wires. apx $60 w/shipping.

I cannot see any loose piece that might be bouncing around. I blew air and vacuumed the piston area. Nothing?? As you said it could have already exited. Still weird that there are no marks on the piston sleeve wall. Not sure I will ever find out what is was :-( And this is the cylinder that is...

Hmmm... the meter should really not readout as 1 when probes are not touching anything. This is an open circuit and usually reads something like OL for Open Loop. I would check the batteries in your meter, and/or use a different meter.

Good to hear. Nice to see another SJ mystery solved!

Did swap in the carbs from my other SJ. Problem stayed the same. At least now I feel I can 100% eliminate the carbs as the issue.

The piston sleeve has no marks whatsoever. If something was bouncing around you would think the sleeve would have some marks?? Not really sure what is going on there with the “good” cylinder

Removed the pro-tec head. There is some pitting on the front “good” cylinder dome. Rear “bad” dome looks ok. Both cylinder sleeves look ok. No damage that I can see. There is no head gasket, just some black RTV like stuff. Do I need to look further? Any suggestions? Anything I am missing from...

A simple check. Pull the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Measure resistance between the wires. (Need to insert the ohm meter probes into the metal part of the boots). Should be around 4200 ohms (4.2k). If not, wires likely need to be replaced. Coil could be bad too, but apparently the...

I guess you could recheck all the connections and grounds in the ebox. Wires can get pinched reassembling the ebox as well. If you have another superjet around with the same CDI part number, you could try swapping that in. I am not certain if a faulty CDI could cause your particular issue, but...

Yah, fuel filter or fuel would have been way too easy. These skis can be a pain sometimes. Have you done a compression test on the cylinders?, and do they check out ok (150+ psi within 5 psi of each other)? So the problem only happens under a load... could the driveshaft be slipping? Impeller...