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I have the thicker gaskets up to .060" but if you want to go larger you might need an aluminum spacer plate with a gasket on either side. I'd check with superjet-113 or jetmaniac to see if the can order you something thicker.

Here are the stock and my lightened flywheel weights to compare with the Aluminum. Stock Kawasaki F4T309 = 4.44-lbs.. 750 Big-Pin Stock Kawasaki F4T309 = 4.48-lbs. 800 SXR Lightened Kawasaki F4T309 = 3.72-lbs. 750 Big-Pin Lightened Kawasaki F4T309 = 3.84-lbs. 800 SXR Lightened...

I'm guessing this would be good for checking your timing without removing the cover or display hypnosis for selling more aftermarket parts. :smile:

The basic reduction nozzle rules are; the larger the nozzle exit diameter, the greater the volume of water you can move. This is great for a freestyle bottom end and hole shots but the problem is that sometimes you do not have the proper exit velocity for top speed. The smaller the nozzle exit...

I'd try using the larger nozzle and see if it helps. If it's a 64R or 62T or 65V reduction nozzle with a greater angles it might help more. The 86mm diameter might be a bit too much for a mag pump but if need one taper bored or a custom tail cone just let me know.

It only shrinks slightly as it dries so filling the case voids somewhat higher will eliminate this and the surface can be machined down or lapped with sandpaper block for a smooth aluminum appearance.

Maybe you should increase your exit nozzle diameter or go with one that has a greater tapered angle if you're wanting to decrease the pump pressure. Did your mag come with different size tail cones?

Or you could replace you driveshaft with a bungee cord.

You just gave me an idea... stainless bolt-on fin inserts for the steering nozzles.

Just a word of advice... if you were to run the stock trim with the rubber blowback guard you wouldn't need to make such a contraption.

It's an oem aluminum steering nozzle from a Yamaha FX140 part number 60E-51313-00-00 and they retail for around $150 new.

It actually quite large and has a ridge inside that goes from 95.15mm to 95.60mm I.D. at the exit and since it's aluminum it weighs a bit more at .810-lbs which is .345-lbs more than the plastic steering nozzle.

These photos show a 62T reduction nozzle with an FX140 steering nozzle with a stock trim ring with the rubber backflow guard attached and this flow guard is still needed? Those small Asians must have encountered too many water enemas. :booty:

You're most likely correct to say the difference wouldn't be noticeable but anything that improves flow or stops cavitation will be a good advantage.

JB-Weld can be drilled out and it leaves a smooth contour finish on the inside area of the reduction nozzle for enhanced undisturbed water flow. Meh!

It's a 12-Volt 10-Amp 1/4" diameter 1-1/4" long or 30mm fast acting glass fuse.

Tape the inside area and pore some JB-Weld down the holes you're not using.

Did you calibrate your rock before making adjustments?

There's an app for everything nowadays so I guess you can use your cell phone too. http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/digital-angle-gauge/id354668537?mt=8 Here's a C75 Swirl that measures 13.30 / 18.40 that is going to need some tweaking and a cutback soon.