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If it's a pro tech it's AM. Does it extend past the hull? If so its already an extended. How do you stand in the tray? If both feet back try one foot forward, staggered stance.

Longer ride plate may help but truth for the matter is you may just be too big. Shorter pole may also help to get more weight forward.

Yeah, I've never used Yamabond 4 but this stuff that was used looks more like black rtv now that I have the cases apart. It looks as it was rebuilt not all that long ago and for whatever reason lost the back two crank seals and started to take its toll on the back piston. Only reason it was...

Anyone know what the internal markings "art l 2" mean as far a brand? Pulling a 65u apart and trying to find out what components where used. Luckily only think I need replace 1 piston. Pic of the subject.

Thanks but that's not what I'm looking for. I use 1211 on all my builds. I want to know what Yamaha uses to tell if this motor I have is original or been rebuilt at some point.

Like the title says what does Yamaha use at the factory to seal cases? Just curious here as I'm disassembling a npv 1200 and it looks like it's been sealed with a black rtv or something. Not sure the history on this motor so trying to see if it's been apart before. Thanks,

Fun stuff

Why? What years?

Leaving the bar.

Are they SAE? If so http://www.mcmaster.com/#binding-posts/=12wbl2q

I think I finished mine with 200+ on a DA sander and the appliance epoxy has held fine for years. I had some spots where it was glossy then matte if you looked closely but being white it wasn't that noticeable. If done well coupled with a decal kit it produces best value on refinishing a hull...

Skinny end goes down, sloped face goes forward.

Are those cleats the kind that are harder plastic or composite base? If so you may not like them as they really are only good for grass. Ice skates on most anything else.

Try jumping at the switch connection (red & brown wire I believe) at the plug under the hood to eliminate if it's the actual switch/button. Leave the white & black wires connected as that will still let you be able to kill it.

5-10 would be a small price to pay to off the focker that designed riveted in ball joints.

Most people I've seen running that cart just relocate the bunk uprights in a little. You can do that by getting new pieces of the larger square alum welded on or just bolt to the existing uprights with ubolts to the inside of the originals. For the winch just redrill the cart or winch to open up...

You have carb/fuel delivery issues. Pull and clean the carb(s) and replace anything needed replaced. Your needle and seat are gonna be at least one of those things.

So reminds me of these.

What's he got for water removal? Can see that bad boy getting swamped pretty easily.

So I've heard if you buy bottles in New York and return in Michigan you can make $.05 profit each on the deposit.