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Looks rich to me... I'd bet when that cleaner plug is seated in the head, the clean part of the porcelain is facing the intake ports. Fuel will wash them clean if it's too rich. How did it run? Was it stumbling or missing or did it have good power without hickups? Sent from my iPhone using...

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What about a true marine plug, where there is no ground strap? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What about liquid cooler sled motors? Can think of a number of liquids that call for the br8es off the top of my mind... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thinking deto Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Future advice, that 25 min you put on the motor at 50% less power after you noticed something wrong is more than likely what toasted your crank... Next time something doesn't seem right, stop immediately. That could have saved your crank. Pistons, no but the crank might have been ok. Just an FYI...

For one I heard if other people noticing more bottom end power from same engine setups in a sn hull and a rn hull, only difference being rn has a larger exit pipe. I do think it makes a difference. The other thing that worries me is it appears that you pierced the pipe in your attempt to dent...

You left that exhaust like that!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

White distilled 50/50 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it's trying to push through the front cover that hard, then my thinking somehow your stater is turning into a solenoid with the way it wants to push out. I also wonder how it can push that far out and still stay connected to the brushes. If voltages do go up during cranking, I'd think that's...

You can't "push" amperage through anything. It's dependent on the over all condition of the device... A perfect starter might only draw a few Amps regardless of the total ampacity of the battery. Now a starter with bad bearing or high compression will draw more (warm cables after long cranking)...

Cracked fuel pickup, something in fuel pump, n/s in carb... Could be a lot. If it seems fuel related, ask yourself what could have broke or moved when it landed hard that would effect fuel delivery Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

12 volts is still 12 Volts... Shouldn't matter how many cells you have. If your pushing more than 12 volts, then I cans see why you have the damage you have Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The better less labor intensive way is to use aluminum oxide to blast instead of soda. It will also give a better bite for the new paint to stick Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could try gunkote from kg coatings. Also, there is a liquid called k-phos from kg as well. It's a phosphoric acid treatment that can be used on carbon steel, stainless and aluminum. This is the system I use on all my coated guns and it's tough. It's always an argument which is tougher...

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Looks better when you pie cut or make slices and bend the bottom with the bond rail to your desired rocker Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Back when I was into imports, a cheap effective mod to stiffen up the motor mounts was to fill the void in the factory rubber with this rubber in a caulk tune called window weld. Used for setting new windshields. Worked awesome. Wonder if this could somehow work the same way in the ski world...

If your telling me that you can't own the ski anymore because of the tampered hin tags, but yet the chp officers are going to draw to own it themselves!? That's wrong in so many ways, and if that happened to me, mark my words, my new motive in life would be to destroy those chp officers...

Dude, my 99 crv has 270k on it still going strong!...minus the muffler that fell off last week Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk