Search results

it will use same orings kit ADA use. about 30 kits will be available for purchase at the end of january 2010. THE KIT INCLUDE EVERYTHING NEEDED EXCEPT THE DOMES, YOULL HAVE TO BUY THEM FROM ADA. We might stock some 701cc 185psi domes if theres a demand. Price will be a bit under $35 each...

It will be the same price and MAYBE less

Yep, It will. Your a lucky man, youve have the numero uno! :bump:

Hi everyone, We will release a new Superjet head kit for 2010. The design will be much simplier, no more fancy fins and it will be held by studs instead of the 2 parts bolts kit. They will be offered in clear anodized and black color. It will still be compatible with the ADA domes. If you have...

the adapter in the pic is not the final one, it was just for reference. It a threaded brass adapter.

yes i will offer clear anodized shells for the 2009 season.

its about 45-60$ cheaper. I will have turning sytems and other aluminum parts soon on the website. Thank you!

Hi Kennay, I might stock some 37cc and 35cc domes in a couple of weeks and will let them go for 35$ each.

thanks kennay! im still unsure of what to do. it might end up as a tach if i cant make this thing waterproof. the price might drop too. i did this thingie because my current start stop switch is dead... i will probably have the only one ever produced too! lol

LOL its even better than this, i have access to a machine shop !!:bananapowerslide:

its a tad longer than the OEM start/stop switch , from the handle bar to the top its 1 1/2", 3" long by 1 5/8". The power is taken from the battery, when the engine is off it shows 0 rpm for 30 sec and then shutoff (sleep). It consume approx. 150ma when running and 0.2ma when sleeping. Theres...

theres a rubber gasket between the cover and the buttons have an oring. Also the cable hole will be epoxyed. It should stay dry.

Ive been designing a cheapo tach for my SJ for almost a year (on and off) and came up with the idea of making a start stop switch with an integrated tach. This include the start/stop buttons and a function button to monitor the RPM vs elapsing time to estimate the fuel consumption with an...

thats exactly what im doing right now, an entire engine from crank case to head. Let me tell you that its hell of a job!! Im not even designing it from scratch, just a copy of good ol rotax technology... Been 4 months right now and i can swear its a machining nightmare!!! lol Just figuring a way...

then its way out of spec. you should have at max 0.02", usually between .01" - .015"

do you mean .009" ring gap or really .09" cause it definitely make a difference.

http://www.sharkfab.com yep, but its still under construction, ive put some random pictures on it to have something to look at the parts i will have this year are the throttle lever, the girdle head and a 6mm strocker crank. i will maybe design an entire 1000cc engine from crank to head this...

Id like to introduce these as well :smile: Shark Fab Throttle Lever It started life as 2 solid blocks of 6061 aluminum, pivot pin made of brass with a teflon bearing with stainless steel hardware. It has an adjuster barrel that fit the yamaha cable, i havent checked if the kawi cable will fit...

just remove the anodizing in this area, gouge the crack and fill it with aluminum by tig welding. it should do the job

how big is the crack? theres is always the possibility of relocating the keyway if stress cracks are showing up