- Location
- Oceanside, CA
Impact will take it off.
2014 Krash Footrocket - First AM build
- Thread starter westjon86
- Start date
Yami-Rider
TigerCraft FV-PRO
- Location
- Texoma
Have done the rope trick many times, it's a Yamaha, you won't bend the crank, now if it was a kawasaki that may be a different story 
.. You could try just a impact and no rope, if its not too tight it may spin right off.
.. You could try just a impact and no rope, if its not too tight it may spin right off.
speedysprocket
Alex
- Location
- Chesapeake, VA
Impact spins them off in half a second; no rope needed. It really is something awesome...!
N3vrSat1sfied
Military Member
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
Cold fusion holder is worth every penny!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Cape May Court House, NJ
cold fusion holder is not gonna work if the ring gear is not attached to the rest of the flywheel, but under normal conditions i agree
N3vrSat1sfied
Military Member
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
Yami-Rider
TigerCraft FV-PRO
- Location
- Texoma
Use a little JB weld and your be good as new
How many hours are on that flywheel?
How many hours are on that flywheel?
So I'm considering putting a bilge in this ski. I initially didn't because this ski came with a scupper (first time I've had one) however it only works when the ski is moving. When the flywheel broke the other day the ski was just sitting in very shallow water and I noticed it began taking on some water. I want to have the bilge in there case of a breakdown or if the ski isn't moving.
When JSS built my electronics they told me the OCD bilge harness I had wouldn't be reinstalled because it cannot be used with an EPIC. I trust that this true because they are the electronics experts and I am not even close to being one. If I wire a bilge up the old fashioned way and run it to the battery directly isn't that accomplishing the same thing as if it was wired directly to the ebox?
When JSS built my electronics they told me the OCD bilge harness I had wouldn't be reinstalled because it cannot be used with an EPIC. I trust that this true because they are the electronics experts and I am not even close to being one. If I wire a bilge up the old fashioned way and run it to the battery directly isn't that accomplishing the same thing as if it was wired directly to the ebox?
Yami-Rider
TigerCraft FV-PRO
- Location
- Texoma
You need at least one bilge pump in my opinion. My Rocket's scupper leaks right now because there is a zip tie stuck in it, cant get it out without remove the pump.
Does the OCD kit just get power and ground from the ebox? if so, then yes, straight to the battery would be the same.
I run a sealed electronic float switch with my pumps, never have to worry about a switch going bad..http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/mayfair-ultima-switch?a=544096
.Does the OCD kit just get power and ground from the ebox? if so, then yes, straight to the battery would be the same.
I run a sealed electronic float switch with my pumps, never have to worry about a switch going bad..http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/mayfair-ultima-switch?a=544096
This is the response from JSS. I guess it doesn't have the same affect and I will connect the pump straight to the battery
All I can say is people were having issues when using another makers "bilge harness" that was tied into the ebox. They kept loosing the curve program....and some sort of starting issue because of default timing curve(I think). Epic told advised them to not have anything else tied to the +12 at the ebox.
If I recall correctly....they even went so far as to say to only hook bilge motors up to battery....and would not warranty if recommended hook up was not observed. This goes back 3 or more years ago.
That said, we have not allowed bilge wiring at ebox with Epic or Advent CDIs
I think the current drain thru the small wire tapped off the relay may have contributed....but not sure. But it could have been RFI from motor.
Having it hooked up at battery allows no current drop issues, and could act as a buffer for RFI.
All I can say is people were having issues when using another makers "bilge harness" that was tied into the ebox. They kept loosing the curve program....and some sort of starting issue because of default timing curve(I think). Epic told advised them to not have anything else tied to the +12 at the ebox.
If I recall correctly....they even went so far as to say to only hook bilge motors up to battery....and would not warranty if recommended hook up was not observed. This goes back 3 or more years ago.
That said, we have not allowed bilge wiring at ebox with Epic or Advent CDIs
I think the current drain thru the small wire tapped off the relay may have contributed....but not sure. But it could have been RFI from motor.
Having it hooked up at battery allows no current drop issues, and could act as a buffer for RFI.
speedysprocket
Alex
- Location
- Chesapeake, VA
I glassed a piece of window screen onto the hull in the engine compartment side of the scupper to keep that loose debris out. I've had the random object get stuck in the scupper, too, since the flap can't open very far with how my pump is in there...You need at least one bilge pump in my opinion. My Rocket's scupper leaks right now because there is a zip tie stuck in it, cant get it out without remove the pump
Yami-Rider
TigerCraft FV-PRO
- Location
- Texoma
Good idea @speedysprocket, I almost put a screen there when I built the hull.. I will do that this winter for sure.
- Location
- Stevensville, MD
Nevermind.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Ha, John has refused to install my kits long before the Epic was even on the market so nothing new there. Now he just has an official sounding reason other than his pride.
I'll exchange that tidy bilge harness for a clean and clear direct to battery harness if you want. Just send me a pm with your address or I can hand you one at Daytona if you are going.
Now, If installed as instructed, the power for the tidy bilge kit is connected directly to the same terminal as the battery cable. If the current from one or even two bilge pumps is enough to cause a significant voltage drop on a #6 battery lead, there is an issue with the battery lead. Plain and simple.
Next, the ground wire of the tidy bilge kit is supplied with a ring terminal and is intended to be fastened directly to the ebox backing plate with all the other grounds. If there is a weak link here, it's the ground. The only path back to the battery from the ebox is through the single ground wire in the stator harness. This wire connects directly to the stator backing plate which grounds to the motor via the two mounting screws. The ground path then continues through the engine cases to whichever point you attached the battery ground wire to and eventually gets back to the battery. If there is an issue with the continuity of any one or more of these many connections then yes, it could cause an issue and adding a bilge kit would only exaggerate the issue. Also pretty plain and simple.
Besides getting the wires cut or mechanically damaged, the two places I see fail the most on the stators are a loose or corroded ground screw connection to the backing plate and a worn or corroded contact surface where the stator bolts to the cases. It is for this reason that Surf Armor stators will all have two ground wires as standard. Not only will this increase circuit capacity for extra items such as bilges, but it will also add a level of redundancy that should keep you on the water longer.
Now, having said all that. I run dual pumps in my ski, thru the ebox, with an Epic and have been for over 3 years now. I have had zero issues with mine while others have had nothing but issues with theirs. (Including many people that do not run a tidy bilge I might add). I have had pumps fail and short out, I have had a battery cable wear through and cause a parasitic drain on my battery and then eventually corrode up so bad from salt intrusion that it wouldn't crank my ski with a full charge even. And my Epic performed flawlessly through all of this. In fact, we even swapped in a buddies Epic on a day it was causing backfiring, kicking back on cranking and had even kicked the engine into running backwards after landing a jump and It ran perfect in my ski. If voltage drop is the culprit, I should have seen at least some sign of issue should I not?
The next time one of you guys talks to John, ask him about the custom wound coils he offers. I can't remember if it's the charge coil or the lighting coil that he does but one of them supposedly has 100 or more extra wraps on it? Pretty sure it's the lighting coil. Both my current JSS stators have this custom coil installed and I have always maintained that this is why my skis are so reliable and why I suffer so few epic issues. Increased output from the lighting coil would help keep overall system voltage higher and above the threshold of interference.?.?.? Just a theory I wanted to run by him sometime.
I'll exchange that tidy bilge harness for a clean and clear direct to battery harness if you want. Just send me a pm with your address or I can hand you one at Daytona if you are going.
Now, If installed as instructed, the power for the tidy bilge kit is connected directly to the same terminal as the battery cable. If the current from one or even two bilge pumps is enough to cause a significant voltage drop on a #6 battery lead, there is an issue with the battery lead. Plain and simple.
Next, the ground wire of the tidy bilge kit is supplied with a ring terminal and is intended to be fastened directly to the ebox backing plate with all the other grounds. If there is a weak link here, it's the ground. The only path back to the battery from the ebox is through the single ground wire in the stator harness. This wire connects directly to the stator backing plate which grounds to the motor via the two mounting screws. The ground path then continues through the engine cases to whichever point you attached the battery ground wire to and eventually gets back to the battery. If there is an issue with the continuity of any one or more of these many connections then yes, it could cause an issue and adding a bilge kit would only exaggerate the issue. Also pretty plain and simple.
Besides getting the wires cut or mechanically damaged, the two places I see fail the most on the stators are a loose or corroded ground screw connection to the backing plate and a worn or corroded contact surface where the stator bolts to the cases. It is for this reason that Surf Armor stators will all have two ground wires as standard. Not only will this increase circuit capacity for extra items such as bilges, but it will also add a level of redundancy that should keep you on the water longer.
Now, having said all that. I run dual pumps in my ski, thru the ebox, with an Epic and have been for over 3 years now. I have had zero issues with mine while others have had nothing but issues with theirs. (Including many people that do not run a tidy bilge I might add). I have had pumps fail and short out, I have had a battery cable wear through and cause a parasitic drain on my battery and then eventually corrode up so bad from salt intrusion that it wouldn't crank my ski with a full charge even. And my Epic performed flawlessly through all of this. In fact, we even swapped in a buddies Epic on a day it was causing backfiring, kicking back on cranking and had even kicked the engine into running backwards after landing a jump and It ran perfect in my ski. If voltage drop is the culprit, I should have seen at least some sign of issue should I not?
The next time one of you guys talks to John, ask him about the custom wound coils he offers. I can't remember if it's the charge coil or the lighting coil that he does but one of them supposedly has 100 or more extra wraps on it? Pretty sure it's the lighting coil. Both my current JSS stators have this custom coil installed and I have always maintained that this is why my skis are so reliable and why I suffer so few epic issues. Increased output from the lighting coil would help keep overall system voltage higher and above the threshold of interference.?.?.? Just a theory I wanted to run by him sometime.
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Thanks for your input OCD. At this point I've already sealed up my ebox without the harness and would hate to break it open because I know everything is working properly. With that being said I need a bilge and will take you up on your offer, I really like your products and your attention to detail. I've ran your harnesses on several skis I've owned without any problem (this is the first with EPIC).