2014 Krash Predator - REVAMP

Im finding that almost every insert thread on this ski is loose if not already stripped... Not sure why these hulls were built with cheap aluminum blocks as "inserts" but these ones have taken a beating. The last thing I ever want to do is cut this tray open again! I did some research and thinking and decided to help out the midshaft threads by adding a 22mm deep 316 stainless Rotaloc on the backside of the bulkhead. I aligned them with long bolts through the midshaft holes and used thickened epoxy and chopped strand to hold them in place. I then put 1 layer of 6oz cloth around the inserts and then a layer of 1208 biax over each insert. Finally 1 last large layer of 6oz cloth covering the entire midshaft. I even added a little last blob of thickened epoxy to make me feel warm and fuzzy. All of the bolts now thread in by hand to the very back, so with the added 22mm my full thread depth for the midshaft is about 35mm! If the original holes ever strip, I can just use a longer bolt. As a matter of fact, I could even use a longer bolt to start with and never worry about stripping my midshaft bolts. Keep in mind, im only doing this because all the threads on this hull are loose and look like garbage.

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Location
Oregon
Such an awesome project!! Love it and the attention to detail. Such a positive attitude required to just cut the reaper open like that rather than just complaining! Keep it up!
 
What you going back with?

464 marine grade brass. 1” thick because it was the only size they made with a 1.25” width! That way it will fit right into the slots that are there now. Easy peazy. I might use some of my rotaloc inserts for the ride plate and intake grate because that brass was $$$ o_O


Such an awesome project!! Love it and the attention to detail. Such a positive attitude required to just cut the reaper open like that rather than just complaining! Keep it up!

Thanks Riley and or Stu! I’ve got several of your parts going on this ski and my FX-1 build. I’ll be buying more of your products, keep up all the great work and videos. I hope we get a chance to ride together sometime!
 
Location
Oregon
Thanks Riley and or Stu! I’ve got several of your parts going on this ski and my FX-1 build. I’ll be buying more of your products, keep up all the great work and videos. I hope we get a chance to ride together sometime!

Let’s ride!! You’re always welcome to join us! Thanks for the encouragement, it helps motivate us for sure.
-Riley
 
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Location
Oregon
P.S. I didn't check each post in your "thread" (no pun intended) but in the odd chance you use stainless steel to replace any inserts inside the hull, I would be 1,000% sure to use anti-seize on every single bolt you install. Stainless on stainless can have a tendency to gall depending on the alloy & application. -> https://www.rg-group.com/resources/blog/what-is-stainless-steel-galling-and-what-causes-it

I think your choice of brass is ideal!
-Riley
 

hornedogg79

dodgin' bass boats
I agree with 'take your time' but wrong time of year! Just giving him a hard time because I know how bad he wants to ride right now.

As for stainless on stainless.... I worked as a mechanic in a facility that dissolved cold war era uranium and diluted it for use in power plants. Everything was stainless and anti-seize was life. Galling still happened occasionally. Usually in areas subject to high heat, vibration, acid or all the above. Brass is definitely the best choice but I have to believe that if Kawasaki used stainless pump inserts on 550's for 20+ years of production without issue.... Probably not a bad choice either.
 
Believe me, I want this so bad!

You should know:
I have all of the new 316 stainless cooling/trim lines completely prepped and ready for install
New steering tube assembled, prepped and ready for install
New exhaust tube cut to match hull angle, prepped and ready for install
I aligned my pump before I removed the inserts, using the Cold Fusion tool. I aligned my pump shoe and added some epoxy to raise 1 area while lowering another to get as close to even gap as possible. I believe it is within .25mm of even gap for pump to shoe (without seal) and just under 1mm overall
I finished building my E-box and engine yesterday
Midshaft is ready, just need to do a final spline depth check.
I picked up my paint a few days ago, I hope you like to party.
Footholds have been trimmed to match closer to RRP style, all prepped and ready for turf
Only waiting on my exhaust hose and that should be here very soon.
Brass will be here today.
This is my year. The $hit is going down.
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Maybe this week the fx paint will be done..Badly want to get in the water is correct.Foot Rocket is just a crank away,but was hoping to launch the fx this spring.Only been 2 years since l started on it
 
Making my inserts was much harder than I expected. Cutting through the Brass was very difficult, however drilling and tapping was nice and smooth. I decided to go with 3/8-24 size threads. I was able to get socket head allen hardware and if I ever needed to tap to M10 later that would still be possible. I did not use the brass for my other 2 ride plate bolts because it’s at a weird angle and I will just use the roto’s like the bulkhead, it’s hard to see but it will work out much better I believe. Coming out great! I can’t wait to rip this lil’ boat… just a few more weeks of headache.

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I’m so tired o_O

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When checking my driveshaft alignment today, I realized my front 2 pump inserts are like 1mm too close together. I can only get 1 or the other threaded in, I guess I will have to grind out the pump mounts… bummer. I aligned the inserts with the holes that were there already, I guess because the front 2 holes had been drilled out they weren’t quite perfect anymore.
 
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