Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
550sx to 750 "All or Nothing" build
- Thread starter Myself
- Start date
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Today, after a couple prep-sol wipe downs, I got 2 coats of Pettit epoxy barrier on the bottom and hood. I laid it down with foam rollers. I like this method because there's no waste fogging through the air, and you get a high build with only a couple coats. It sort of looks Rhino lined right now but will be super slick after blocking and touch ups.
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Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
I got the topside and pole in high build epoxy primer today, and everything topped with a guidecoat. I forgot to mention this on the last post.......anybody doing a build and mixing small batches of 2k primer.......ratios are by VOLUME and NOT WEIGHT. I weighed the cans on my scale and figured by weight that this Pettit will mix at a 5:1 ratio.
All the parts are now curing hard and will be ready for wet block sanding in a couple days.
All the parts are now curing hard and will be ready for wet block sanding in a couple days.
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Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
The hood sat in the sun most of the day yesterday, so I thought I'd try to wet sand.........good to go! For this step in the paint/body I'm using 220 on a stiff foam block. You can see pretty quickly how thick and rough the buildup was on that primer. The goal at this point is to block sand down to a smooth primer finish. It's ok to still see some dots of guidecoat, and even some color from UNDER the primer. The reason being, after any filler touch ups the whole thing will be primed again. Then blocked again, then of course a few coats of paint on top. There's still plenty of material going on to cover everything well. You don't have to go through all of this........if you're satisfied with "good enough". But if you want super slick show style paint.......you need to go through all these steps.
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Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Wax on, wax off Danielson !
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Another big step the last 2 evenings after work. The engine is pretty much assembled!!! It will still need paint though. I really like the Boyesen 2 stage reeds so I yanked the stockers and installed these before closing up the intake side. On the exhaust side (if you use a 750 manifold) you WILL NEED 2 bolts in the upper holes INSTEAD of the long studs.........that way you can still remove the manifold inside the hull.
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Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
I worked the pole a little bit this evening....err.....wait........
............
........got the pole mostly blocked out. You see all those light and dark areas? Those WERE all highs and lows....peaks and valleys. But now after blocking the surfaces are FLAT. Just wetsanding SMOOTH.....IS NOT the same as being flat. This really shows how wavy and uneven the factory part really was.
............
........got the pole mostly blocked out. You see all those light and dark areas? Those WERE all highs and lows....peaks and valleys. But now after blocking the surfaces are FLAT. Just wetsanding SMOOTH.....IS NOT the same as being flat. This really shows how wavy and uneven the factory part really was.
Attachments
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
No pictures yet......it's 10:10 pm and I just came in. I got almost all the topside blocked after dinner this evening. Probably have pics tomorrow.
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
I got some work in after dinner again tonight. Most or maybe all, of the low spots are faired in. You'll see little pieces of tape everywhere. If you find all these spots BEFORE you mix up the fairing epoxy, you'll be able to go around and wipe them BEFORE it starts flashing off on you. I've seen guys use chalk for marking as well. I know this looks like A LOT of fairing epoxy wiped everywhere but this MUST be done if you want your final paintjob to turn out nice. Now I'll give it some cure time and hit all those with 120 then 220 wrapped around a paint paddle. Using a hard block for this will keep from digging into any of the surrounding area. The idea is to rub down the new filled areas J U S T down level with the surrounding area. Then everything will be nice and flat. A super smooth surface with nicely laid out paint will still look like poop if the whole thing has more waving on it than a Macy's parade float!!
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Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Very sad day for us. We had to put our put our dog Jack to sleep this morning. He was almost 16 and pretty much the picture of health. All at once he didn't want to eat or even walk around the house. Wife stayed up holding him all night. He was breathing fast but otherwise seemed alert. Took him to the vet early and they confirmed his organs were shutting down......just old age. It was a very hard thing to do. Best thing for me is to DO STUFF instead of thinking about it. So I got a good session of emotional sanding in today. I believe the top is ready for another coat of primer. I also included a pic of my sanding arsenal.
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- Location
- La Crosse, WI on the BIG River
Sorry to hear about the pup.
Keep up on the build it's great to see the detail you're putting into this! I'm about to go sand some wood putty in the garage.
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Thanks. I tend to do any project I take on like it's my own......and I just can't stand the rushed final product look. That's why this is the "All or Nothing" build. If you're going to spend time and money anyway...........do it ALL or just don't do anything!