550sx to 750 "All or Nothing" build

[Myself]

I have made some screwups over the years , especially when I firrst started out spraying white,........

For anybody that doesn't know......white is VERY hard to spray. It's so bright and reflective that as soon as the primer is covered you can't see what you're doing. You literally have to guess with your hand movements and trigger feel on the paint gun, how the paint is flowing and laying out. I also found turning OFF the shop lights and watching the light glare come in from the open door allows SOME view of the wet spray layout.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

White is the hardest paint to spray because it has the least pigment of any paint , this lack of pigmentation causes the paint to not bond as tightly , which is why white is easy to run , it is also the cheapest color again because it has less pigment which reduces the cost to make it , which is why you see it on fleet vehicles.

Bottom line if you can spray white you can spray anything.

 

[E350]

@Myself and @WFO Speedracer would you kindly list your recommended by manufacturer, model and type:

1. Fairing compound (to fill in bottom hull scratches);
2. Primer;
3. Top Coat (white)

 

[WFO Speedracer]

US composites phenolic micro balloons (must mix with epoxy resin )

Take your pick but you want Urethane high build cartylized primer , I use Akzonobel (same company as Sikkens and Awlgrip, Interlux )

Same with the paint how much do you want to spend, I usually spray Kirker or Nason, Kirker has to be ordered and the color selection is limited , the Nason is available locally if I need to colormatch something .

Th Nason sprays really well and it's not too bad on the wallet , of course if you want to be a baller go with Dupont or PPG , you can't go wrong with either but they are damned expensive , like wallet emptying expensive.

 

[Myself]

1-fairing compound. For deep gouges I like to mix fine chopped glass into the epoxy. Regular scratches, just glass bubbles or balloons same as WFO. I have also used Mar-glass or Dura-glass many times through the years and will use it if I don't feel like jacking around with epoxy. US Composites has some of the best pricing.
2-Primer. Any name brand 2 part epoxy primer. I am really liking the Pettit that I used on this project.
3-Top coat. I've used PPG on most projects through the years. As WFO stated.....it's EXPENSIVE. I've also shot Dupont and some cheap no name stuff. I went with Pettit on this project because of all the good reviews I read on various boat forums. I mixed in the extra catalyst with the white to give a nice hard, UV resistant, finish.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

One more thing Spraymax is now doing paint in limited colors it is 2k paint in a spray can the same as their clearcoat and primers , you smash the bottom piece on the can to mix it and then spray , for small jobs it should work really well , their primers and clearcoats are also top notch .

SprayMax Topcoat White 2K DTM High Gloss, 3680223

The SprayMax 3680223, DTM Topcoat White High Gloss is an ultra durable paint finish that can be applied to direct to properly cleaned and sanded steel, galvanized, and aluminum without the use of a primer.

repaintsupply.com

 

[Myself]

Well.......how about this abstract art on the new white paint!!
Ya buddy, that's from a Sharpie PERMANENT marker!

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I have no idea what's going on here

 

[Myself]

......."What the hell??!!"
OK, we have a couple coats of paint on. Some of the pros refer to this as "pre-paint". Now I need to "de-nib"......get out specs of dirt, bugs, runs, sags, all the bad stuff that happens. PLUS....paint lays out nicer on PAINT, than it does primer. Grab a sharpie, and color the panels. This helps you SEE where your sanding so you just get the surface and don't get too deep in any one area. Then, get out your 400 or 500 grit WET sandpaper. Mix a bit of carwash or dish soap into the water to help the paper glide on the surfaces. Grab a soft block and go to town! You can see the "orange peel" in the marks. I like to go around EVERYTHING lightly, then rinse it off.

 

[Myself]

I have no idea what's going on here

Little trick I learned from a pro years ago.

 

[Myself]

OK, hood has been wet sanded with 500 grit, rinsed, and then I went over the whole thing carefully with a red scotchbrite pad. We don't want any glossy surface. Ready for final painting. You can see I found a few areas where the paint was a tad thin. You can see it looks blackish.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Oh ok so it's like applying Dykem and acetone to freshly sprayed gelcoat , once it's all gone you know it's flat, got it.

 

[JC-SuperJet]

This is like watching Paint dry...

Nice work.

 

[Myself]

This is like watching Paint dry...

Nice work.

Tell me about it. Just as soon as I get this paint done it should move quickly!

 

[Myself]

I got the handpole and hull done! WHEW.....I've been at it all day! I'll have Popeye forearms by the time this paintjob is finished LOL!!

 

[Myself]

And here she is ready for final paint.

 

[Donatello]

Well.......how about this abstract art on the new white paint!!
Ya buddy, that's from a Sharpie PERMANENT marker!

BRAAAP!

 

[Myself]

BRAAAP!

Sorry man, looks like that little dude got the first test ride LOL!!!

 

[Myself]

To everybody watching thats tired of "watching paint dry".......I'm sorry but it just HAS to be done to get it RIGHT.

Stick with me......we're getting REAL close to the good stuff!

 

[Donatello]