650sx build by: my650sux

All I have left is finishing the waterbox and hooking up the fuel lines for a trial run. Of course it will be a never ending build but now that summer is officially over I need to finish! I have been swamped with work lately and haven't had time to work on my ski. I would love to catch the fall "free ride" at freeman park. That's a great camping trip! Hopefully this comming weekend I will get the time to finish the ski and take it to the lake. Here is a 2" 304 stainless lapjoint I welded for entertainment. In the pics the welds haven't been brushed and they were welded using a scratch start dry-head TIG welder @100amps.20160811_082725.jpg 20160811_082706.jpg
 

smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
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All I have left is finishing the waterbox and hooking up the fuel lines for a trial run. Of course it will be a never ending build but now that summer is officially over I need to finish! I have been swamped with work lately and haven't had time to work on my ski. I would love to catch the fall "free ride" at freeman park. That's a great camping trip! Hopefully this comming weekend I will get the time to finish the ski and take it to the lake. Here is a 2" 304 stainless lapjoint I welded for entertainment. In the pics the welds haven't been brushed and they were welded using a scratch start dry-head TIG welder @100amps.View attachment 316860 View attachment 316861

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Nice! Sexy!
 
No, but I'm very close. I need to get on it considering the Carolina Beach freeride is next week. I need to get in a little lake time before hitting the big pond too.
 
So Luckily the lake is less than a mile away, over the past few days I have made several trips to a cove with a ramp. My steering was backwards, I have blown off exhaust couplers and bent the end of my hand pole. This is due to the massive amounts of heat put into the metal when welding. The heat annealed the aluminum making it soft. I have made a new plate and plan on quenching the part while still above 850°F to bring back it's original properties. I also added a three quarter bar to the bottom of it for strength. The bar it drilled and tapped to accept the steering plate bolt as well. Because I liked the angle it bent to I duplicated it using my swag offraod press brake. Here are some pics of my progress and I'm trying to bum a go-pro for some ridding video of the ski. I'm running the stock jets 120, 130 and I think that I will need to go up a size. The more I screw out on the H,L the more it likes it. 20161006_161229.jpg 20161006_161220.jpg 20161006_161758.jpg 20161006_161822.jpg
 
@SkiDiggity I view the fire extinguisher kinda like a race car that puts it's own fire out haha. Really though, if it's on fire I'm swimming away from it and towards the closest land. I wish that they weren't required on pwc's. Well it's much faster than the stock 650cc motor. Due to dealing with all the little issues I haven't ridden it more than ten minutes. I don't think it's really a fair comparison at this point because the tune is off. From what I'm gathering it seems to be about like a motocross bike. I think it's going to cavitate once tuned. I already have a scooper grate and 9/13 hooker but it does mid 40's speed wise. I was expecting a bad a## low end and no top speed.
 
yeah, it seems as though the power comes at about half speed and pulls all the way to unstable speed. I did some reading and shortened the belly of the pipe 7" basically I think the sonic waves are canceling each other out at lower rps. Why did I go 7"? because that would be about the same length as the wetjet west cost pipe. I completed all the welding last night, I plan on installing today and......I bought a gopro session 5! My next video will be much better quality. My expectations from the pipe were that I would have crazy low end and hit the top of the pipe before rev limiter. I was completely wrong there but it does run and quite well on top end. Hopefully my changes will give me a more desirable result. If no I plan on trying out hydoforming and making another dry pipe. If I do this I will probably get rid of the heavy west cost pipe all together. I stated earlier that my prop trim was 9/13 that's not correct, I emailed impro's it's actually a 9/15.
 
Does anyone remove the top carb brace and not run it? The reason I ask is, I have stripped one of the headbolts from removing the carb so many times. Fixing the head bolt won't be a problem but I will have to remove the head to install helicoils. My question is: Is the top brace on the carb necessary for operation? Seems like vibration might make the carb leak with a low pop off pressure or possibility even break the carb off. Any input would be appreciated.
 

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