Another dual 44's tuning question

Freestyleriverrat said:
It also does not want to start w/o a couple blips of the throttle.


man mine is doing the exact same thing. i took it out today and just could not get it to start for the life of me. i finally just said f*** it and opened the throttle all the way up, then it started and had to 'clear out' for like 5-10 minutes, then it ran GREAT for the rest of the day. (with the exception of a huge hesitation every time i landed on the left side, not really sure what that's all about)
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
When you land on your side it may shake some fuel from the n&s into the carb throat. I used to have that happen.
 
F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
x-jetter said:
man mine is doing the exact same thing. i took it out today and just could not get it to start for the life of me. i finally just said f*** it and opened the throttle all the way up, then it started and had to 'clear out' for like 5-10 minutes, then it ran GREAT for the rest of the day. (with the exception of a huge hesitation every time i landed on the left side, not really sure what that's all about)

I just ordered some jets and will toy around with those whenever they get here. I am going to take it out again tomorrow and do a couple of adjustments but I am pretty sure that main jet needs to be at least 115-120,
did you ever put those 95g springs in?
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
Freestyleriverrat said:
I just ordered some jets and will toy around with those whenever they get here. I am going to take it out again tomorrow and do a couple of adjustments but I am pretty sure that main jet needs to be at least 115-120,
did you ever put those 95g springs in?

you really need to use a tacho to set your top end jet size
i think you will be suprised what you find if you do
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
no he is looking at plug colour to verify mixture

and trying to get a plug colour at 29% throtel opening load
I would not use that at al if i was you

ride your ski with that tacho on it
once you have set your low end correctly
then note max rpm
adjust screws out half a turn and then note max rpm again
if it has gone down then go back the other way
when you get to max rpm then note turns on top screw
i like it to be about 1 turn out
if you are at 1/2 a turn then go up two jet sizes
if you are closed then go down about 3 jet sizes and start again
this way you will get your top end mixture set right and the ski will pull hard and cleanly all the way through

i like to use the tacho as its a true measureing device for your engine

I just reread there article you posted the link from
i wonder how many guys have there skis running like rubbish because they have read that and tried to tune like that
 
Last edited:
F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
Cool!! Thanks allot for the info and I will definatly investigate using a Tack when tuning. I think Jetskimechanic.com sells them.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
yeah i would contact robert
(jetski mechanic)
i am sure he will sell them
i llike the tiny tach it slow update actually means you can read it clearly at speed
 
F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
waxhead said:
I just reread there article you posted the link from
i wonder how many guys have there skis running like rubbish because they have read that and tried to tune like that

It is not a good article for guaging rejetting but it is good how to article on how to adjust your carbs (assuming that they are jetted correctly in the first place)
 
Freestyleriverrat said:
did you ever put those 95g springs in?


no i never opened up the carbs again because i was able to get them goin pretty good with just the adjustment screws. i didn't know it was starting so bad until just yesterday, because it only starts bad when it's cold. when i was taking the primer off, i capped off the fitting and then fuel started spilling into the back carb a little bit. i think that's because of a bad n/s or something, but it ran great after that so i kinda forgot about it.
 
F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
Took mine to the river this mourning. I managed to get rid of the excessive lean condition by running the highs 2 1/2 out and the lows 1 1/2 out. Managed to get about 2 gallons of gas through it thus far and since it is not running lean at the moment I am at least not as worried as I was. Still has hesitation when you suddenly blip the gas. It just feels like it is all over the place but still feels lean b/c it you give it a good jolt of throllte it wants to fall on its face.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
drop your pop off pressure
get rid of your hesitation

and that article is not good
The one below it s good
but anyone that talks about plug reading at the small throttle settings is not good
 
well i fouled a plug today (brand new plug as of 2 weeks ago) so i'm definately excessively rich. since i'm at a 2.3 ns and 115g spring, i'm gonna drop it down to a 2.0 and a 95g spring, should i just start with that or should i take the pilot jet down a size too?
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
you say you ride every where fast but you fouled a plug
dont you think you may be to rich up top ??
you are thinking abut changing the low speed jet to fix the high speed fouling

once you are over about 1/2 throttle the pop off presure will not be effecting you much at al
so it s a combination of the jets
do you still have that massive 115 in the top
if so then drop that down and hang on
 
F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
Mark44 said:
Matt,
Thats what I ended up with on my magoo 117.5M 115P 2.0 NS 95G 24PSI pop

Mark44

The more I work with mine the more this sounds like this is what it should be. I got up close to 1/2 throttle and it was wanting to fall on its face, even at 2.5 out on the highs. I am currently sitting at 110M and 117.5P w/ 2.0n/s and 95g. I think my next change is the 120M to see how that is. X-jetter, I think dropping down to 95g and 2.0n/s is a good move. I definatly have that initial snap in my throttle right now it is just after that burst that my jetting feels like it acts up. Once I switch to the 120's I will guage whether or not I need to drop the pilot's to 115's.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
what rpm are you getting this dead spot at
ride along on your knees watching the tacho
hold it at 2000 for about 30 secs then snap it on
then do it at 3000
let me know what your results are
 
F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
waxhead said:
what rpm are you getting this dead spot at
ride along on your knees watching the tacho
hold it at 2000 for about 30 secs then snap it on
then do it at 3000
let me know what your results are

I will, I still need to order a tack . I ordered an assortment of jets for the carbs and honestly I think I am doing gross tuning at this point to get me closer to where I need to be but will definatly use the tack for the fine tuning of the motor and carbs. It has nice snap off idle but I don't see it letting me get much above 1/2 throttle before hesitating; as I just off idle and 1/4 it feels OK but not great and above that it falls on its face even with 2.5 out on the highs which is why I want to go to the 120M and possibly work my way down.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
I am confused why you are trying to set the mid range(1/2 throttle) mixture on your ski with the high speed ( 3/4 upwards) circuit

you are using massive jets in the top end with heaps of turns out to try and get the midrange into your ski
you should try increasing your low speed jet to about a 120-125 and lower your pop off and give the ski the fuel in the midrange
then you can trim the top end with the hs jet as well as the adjuster
the top end jet mixture screw only works in the the top 10% so playing with that will not help your 50% throttle opening issue
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom