- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
yea i don't really understand pauls recommendations, because he told me to start off with 112.5 mains and 115 pilots and 2.3 w/95g spring, which seems a lot different than your jetting.
Another dual 44's tuning question
- Thread starter x-jetter
- Start date
F
Freestyleriverrat
Guest
x-jetter said:
I should be breaking my motor in on thursday. I will let you know how it responds and what tuning I do. Keep me posted on yours as well. I know from other peoples builds that the 2.0 and 95g spring is like right on the money for most ported motors and then tweek the jets accordingly.
- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
okay i'll keep you updated. i need to get my hands on a set of 2.0 needle/seats. i'm not sure if i'll be working on mine until after the holiday though, so it may be a while before i can try some stuff.
Mile9c1
X-H2O.com
- Location
- Grand Rapids, MI
x-jetter said:
IME it's worthless (or best case, it's not going to help your jetting problems). Didn't you ride my X-Jet last year? How'd it feel? I actually had two waterlines feeding into the waterbox at all times :biggthumpup:
- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
yea it felt pretty strong, that's for sure.
crammit442
makin' legs
- Location
- here
Mile9c1 said:
Just because YOU can't figure out how to properly set one up doesn't make it worthless.
Lots of guys, including myself find them to be an important piece of the complete package. Many other engine builders recommend them also. PJS (Pro Jet Sports) thought they were so worthless that they copied it. Other than a bit crisper exhaust note, there is NO downside to drying out your waterbox some at lower R's.Charles
Mile9c1
X-H2O.com
- Location
- Grand Rapids, MI
Charles, I said in my experience it is worthless... YOU can't argue with that :biggrin:
F
Freestyleriverrat
Guest
Mile9c1 said:
Thats right..........once he puts in my experience in there it is immuned to all arguments.:haha:
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
i havent found good results with the jet works valve ethier
but this is just my experience
but this is just my experience
- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
did i mention i hate dual carbs?
that big dawg mod single carb is lookin better and better....
that big dawg mod single carb is lookin better and better....
Mile9c1
X-H2O.com
- Location
- Grand Rapids, MI
x-jetter said:
Did you try the jetting I recommended? We have similar setups... you live an hour from me... I started out a few weeks ago with 120 pilots and 125 mains, and it ran well but was too rich (it was load up a little when I tipped it over). So I dropped down to 115 pilots and it seems almost perfect now. I don't have a tach so I just left my main jets at 125, but I bet 120 would work, my screws are just over 1 turn out. My popoff is about 27psi and I'm running Pro-K flame arrestors with prefilters.
BTW, you'd have the same issues with a single carb, the only advantage would be an easier time changing the jets.
- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
no i haven't had a chance to try anything yet because i've been so busy this week. i might be able to try it this weekend, but no guarantees with the holiday n such. i know i'd have the same issues, but only having to remove one carb and adjust one screw and so on sounds very appealing.
- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
oh and you're welcome to come down here sometime to help (do it for me) tune :biggthumpup:
Mile9c1
X-H2O.com
- Location
- Grand Rapids, MI
Just try what I recommended, it might not be the best but it seems to work well for me. You'll probably have to play witht he screws a bit. Set the lows at the point you get the higest idle. If you don't have a tach... watch your pisser(s). They'll shoot the farthest at the highest RPM. You know the high screws are good as well when you reach max speed at WOT. If you don't have a tach and can't tell the difference in speed, leave the screws on the rich side to be safe.
I just want to point out that you have MUCH better bottom end now, right? That's because you increased the backpressure at low RPM's :wink:
x-jetter said:
I just want to point out that you have MUCH better bottom end now, right? That's because you increased the backpressure at low RPM's :wink:
- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
Mile9c1 said:
yes, increased the backpressure indeed. :Banane01:
- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
i have a question though. when setting the low speed screws to get the fastest idle, is there a way to do it with the engine running or do i have to turn the screws a tiny bit, start it, and trial and error type thing. i'd like to do it with the engine running to make it nice nd quick, but can't figure out how to turn the screws at the same time. is there anything wrong with turning one, then the other?
- Location
- Clarklake, Michigan
well i think i got it goin pretty good now, and i definately found the problem. i took the primer off and it made no difference, so i came back in and adjusted some screws, to find that my 2nd JSS billet turn knob has been turning but not turning the screw on the front carb :banghead: the screw was at 1/2 turn out, while the other screw was at 1 1/8 turns out. i'm guessing this was the problem. i checked compression to be sure, and that cylinder is about 8-10 less than the other, so thats no big deal i hope. it seems to be running great now, the only time i can get it to hesitate is when i let it idle for a few seconds then hit it, but i think that's because of my 2.3 ns. oh yea and dual 44's suck gas like CRAZY, it takes me only 30 minutes of continuous riding to empty my tank :bigeyes: