Awesome. I'm glad you're doing it, I need to spend time on my ski build not building batteries that I won't use.
Freestyle AntiGravity Autopsy pics
- Thread starter Aquaholic
- Start date
Awesome. I'm glad you're doing it, I need to spend time on my ski build not building batteries that I won't use.
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
you could take that to any Batteries Plus Bulbs store and they could rebuild that.
they have the cells, the spot welder, and soldering to do it all in house.
they have the cells, the spot welder, and soldering to do it all in house.
Cool! I didn't know they had that capability.
- Location
- sunbury ,ohio
Great to see you building your own , Im sure it will be better than the rest because your building it for yourself , I would like to say '' Dont buy CHEAP batteries to build this project , the reliability of your end product will be hugely reduced if you go cheap !!!!! the a123 batteries I have seen range from a buck or two all the way up to $12 a piece'' FWIW Im sure there is a HUGE difference in reliability and quality . Nuff said , now on with the project 
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Maulin Marto
"I'll quit before I sit"
- Location
- IL. 60033 Near Cheddarland
Seems like this is problem mainly on "freestyle" craft. I have had no issues with race craft. Great weight savings, but not taking on tons of water, super high compression etc. I would imagine a few good "flat" landings after a backflip could break lots of stuff. Good info though, thanks...I'm using the WPS ones with no issue in SXR 1100's....so far, working well. No jumping, no sinks. just racing only. Took 11 pounds off the craft.
- Location
- Redding CA
All this hub bub bull poop from the mfg about what not to do with these a123 packs and the real problem is the lack of isolation in the case lol...
They don't even look like genuine A123 systems cells to me in that pack they have a barcode serial number and A123systems on them.
And a tip for the guy making his own pack.. just take some solid #12 copper wire and pound it flat on a nice piece of smooth steel to make your own battery bars.
They don't even look like genuine A123 systems cells to me in that pack they have a barcode serial number and A123systems on them.
And a tip for the guy making his own pack.. just take some solid #12 copper wire and pound it flat on a nice piece of smooth steel to make your own battery bars.
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NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
I'm going to look into building my own when my AntiQuality's give up. Knock on wood I have one with 2 seasons on it (maybe only 30 rides) and a back up that's been on the water maybe 5 times. Only switched them out because I ran the other down. But both were still working at the end of last season.
Excellent thread Aquaholic. Thanks buddy!
Excellent thread Aquaholic. Thanks buddy!
Philip Clemmons
Owner, P&P Performance
- Location
- Richmond, Va
I've got 160+ gallons on my AG with no issues. I tape them at the seam before use, charge every ride with a quality charger, and have it on a layer of turf for isolation. Ill never go back to lead acid.
FWIW, spot welding is the desired cell joining method, and the equipment to do so is not cheap. Heavy soldering puts excessive heat into the cells, and can compromise its integrity. The spot welder is less invasive on the cell. Insulating or wrapping would not affect them IMO. We have wrapped them for years in aircraft (RC) to protect from vibration. The brief starting should not create any significant heat. A flooded or poorly starting engine is another story, but I think you'd have starter or relay issues long before a heat related battery issue.
Food for thought.
FWIW, spot welding is the desired cell joining method, and the equipment to do so is not cheap. Heavy soldering puts excessive heat into the cells, and can compromise its integrity. The spot welder is less invasive on the cell. Insulating or wrapping would not affect them IMO. We have wrapped them for years in aircraft (RC) to protect from vibration. The brief starting should not create any significant heat. A flooded or poorly starting engine is another story, but I think you'd have starter or relay issues long before a heat related battery issue.
Food for thought.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
How about drilling a hole in the top case and filling it up with an epoxy potting compound? I have a case of 3M potting compound here if anyone wants to try. It would add a bit of weight but the final product would still be way lighter than even an ETX-9.
Philip Clemmons
Owner, P&P Performance
- Location
- Richmond, Va
I don't think it would be an issue at all. Does it flow easily (what size hole would be required in your opinion)? Would it easily seal the hole reliably too? I guess it's insignificant if the cells are sealed up tight.
It's not all about the weight for me. The voltage and amperage of the cells are significantly better than any lead acid battery, and the higher operational voltage is worth some power too, as well as much easier on components ( higher voltage = less amperage).
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
It flows very well with little to no bubbles or trapped air. The gun uses a mixing tip so it would only need a 1/4" hole at the most and would seal everything.
It's not cheap though. Retail is $26 for 4oz. I buy it in bulk for making my surf armor switches so i get a little better deal on it.
P.S. 4oz is enough for 3.5 surf Armor switches.
It's not cheap though. Retail is $26 for 4oz. I buy it in bulk for making my surf armor switches so i get a little better deal on it.
P.S. 4oz is enough for 3.5 surf Armor switches.
- Location
- Los Gatos, CA
NewName, curious how your homemade lithium turned out.
I have had a generic YB16CL-B AGM in my Kawi for several seasons. Just picked up another for $58 on Amazon for my SJ. Better than a flooded cell puking inside the hull.
I see too much risk with spontaneous failure, fire, can't jump, etc with a lightweight lithium. The extra 10lbs is worth having something that will always start, for me at least.
I have had a generic YB16CL-B AGM in my Kawi for several seasons. Just picked up another for $58 on Amazon for my SJ. Better than a flooded cell puking inside the hull.
I see too much risk with spontaneous failure, fire, can't jump, etc with a lightweight lithium. The extra 10lbs is worth having something that will always start, for me at least.
mike b
Michael "Mayhem" Bevacqua aka MikeyChan
- Location
- California
So what is any new feedback out there. I had a WPS poop out on me last year but sure it was user error, very sure lol. Im kicking around between the PHP/ballastic battery, antigravity, and the battery tenders. How have these newest models been holding up? I will be running TL on a 1100 pump gas. I don't mind the 8 lb motorcycle battery's weight but heard after a few months just won't cut it. Thinking about doing a WPS again but heard a lot more about the above three mentioned.
My ballistic is just over 6 months old and good so far.
What did you do to the WPS batteries? I thought those were used when you got them?
mike b
Michael "Mayhem" Bevacqua aka MikeyChan
- Location
- California
@JetFiend One was used, one was new. Both were charged with a lead/acid charger, drained down to crank over a stupid js550, and I might have tightened them down too tight in the CF micro box because the tops have a button to test their charge and I messed up that whole thing. So long story short...user error lol
- Location
- Saskatoon,SK
Dude, you bought a Ballistic, what are you NUTS!!! Everybody knows today's flavor is the Tender!
Tyrant1919
Site Supporter
- Location
- Washington, DC
Over a year on my AG. Tender can suck a nut.
mike b
Michael "Mayhem" Bevacqua aka MikeyChan
- Location
- California
^good to hear on the AG. Special charger I'm assuming?