Back From the Dead - Yamaha FX-2

[brapperdoodle]

Great info! I use some nice silicone hose that would stretch over the 1/2” no problem. So, I’ll cut the 1/2” cooling tubes and use those instead.

So, I’m having some major trouble today with the steering cable holder in the pump area. I filled the old hole I had cut so I could relocate the holder. I have it marked in an area that I can fit a 27mm socket over and also clears everything around it. However, the center line of that hole is right at the center of the steering nozzle mount. So the cable completely centered would have to flex downward to be able to connect to the ball on the nozzle. This would be exaggerated when using the trim and steering hard left or right and looks like it will bind the cable. I thought of maybe putting the ball on top of the nozzle and moving the hole even further up, but it seems like the tabs on the pump and reduction nozzle will be in the way of steering… I need some ideas because this is pretty important! Take a look… again, the center of the marked hole is centered with the mount on the steering nozzle. No good…

 

[Big Kahuna]

how much flex you talking, there is some flex in the cable.

 

[brapperdoodle]

how much flex you talking, there is some flex in the cable.

Its hard to say without cutting the hole and installing the cable… it appears to be too much to allow full steering with trim pulled. But I’m only eyeballing it… full left with trim pulled looks bad though.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

If you have the steering cable ball on the bottom of the turn nozzle and have trim, when you pull the trim, your nozzle will tilt up at an angle instead of straight up

 

[brapperdoodle]

Looks like a bit over 1/2”

 

[Storbeck]

If it makes you feel any better, I've had to fight with this on pretty much every hull I've had with trim. This might be at least partially because I'm always piecing together used stuff that I got a deal on, but none of this trim/steering stuff ever seems to just go together without screwing around figuring out spacers and trying to make it work without binding and I don't think I've ever had one that could use full trim and full steering without some amount of binding.

To my way of thinking, the steering connection should be right at the centerline of the pump, in line with the pivot for the trim, so you don't get "bumpsteer" when the trim is pulled. That doesn't seem to be how anybody does it.

 

[brapperdoodle]

If you have the steering cable ball on the bottom of the turn nozzle and have trim, when you pull the trim, your nozzle will tilt up at an angle instead of straight up

Do you think I might try to relocate the hole in center with the ball on top of the nozzle? The only issue I see is that it looks like the cable will interfere with the tabs that are on the side of the pump/reduction nozzle

 

[hornedogg79]

I agree with Storbeck. Every hull I've had was already setup in the stock location so I put the ball on the underside. Ideally you want it as close as possible to the trim ring pivot bolt. So I would try to put it on top. The hull hole doesn't have to be perfectly in line. It can be an inch or so off in any direction without causing it to bind. Cable allows some angle after the thru hull fitting. Maybe use a dowel to simulate and see where it may or may not make contact with anything. High center and close as possible to pump tunnel wall might get it away from those pump tabs. You can always grind on them if it makes contact. Nothing quite like grinding on expensive new custom parts!

 

[brapperdoodle]

What do people normally use to change a steering cable? Is there some kind of extended socket? Im trying to keep it in a location that will allow it to be changed without removing the pump... but it is what it is!

 

[fastgtfairlane]

The "schwartzman tool" haha

 

[hornedogg79]

Rad dudes sells a.... Nm mark beat me to it. You can also make one by taking a piece of pvc pipe and heat the end then shove it over a 1-1/16 bolt then dip it in water. Drill a hole I the other end to stick a screwdriver through to turn it.

 

[mikesx]

What do people normally use to change a steering cable? Is there some kind of extended socket? Im trying to keep it in a location that will allow it to be changed without removing the pump... but it is what it is!

The melted pvc pipe socket for the 99%.......for the 1% that won't budge.....

 

[mikesx]

Looks like a bit over 1/2”

View attachment 419979View attachment 419980

X2 on what Storbeck and Hornedogg are saying. As close to the pump box wall, so you can still get a socket on the retaining nut. This is what I had to grind on a 155 install where a 144 was for full range of motion.

 

[brapperdoodle]

I mocked up a small tube to simulate the cable and held it in place while turning the nozzle. I held the tube up centered on the marked hole and followed the steering ball on the nozzle while turning it by hand and and watching the position. I think with the new marked hole, it will just barely clear the pump with the ball on the bottom. I studied putting the ball on top of the nozzle, but I decided this would be less accessible to remove the cable if I move the hole upward (nearly impossible) and also the widest part of the pump would be interfering with the cable. I think I am going to keep the ball on the bottom and keep the new hole just about where it is. I will make sure it is as far against the pump box wall as I can get it. Can someone also confirm, for the most steering throw, you would want the ball on the inner most position of the steering nozzle? And the outer most hole on your actual steering system on the handlepole?

 

[fastgtfairlane]

Yes for the most throw, pivot point on the nozzle should be inner most hole and outer most hole on the steering system. Center the cable and extend pivot point out till it binds then go back just a hair so nothing binds and you should be set

 

[brapperdoodle]

I’ve been making some progress! After a long conversation with Blowsion, plus some archive photos left over from John it was determined that the handlepole bracket is correct. It was designed to fit exactly as mine does. The hood latch bracket must be relocated 3/4” rearward to line up with the hook on the bracket. I also decided this bracket was what I wanted for my ski and decided to go ahead and mount it. I refilled the hole cut in for my stock handlepole breather, and reinforced it form the inside. I then installed the bracket and marked where the hole should be and started cutting.



I also didn’t like the tube that comes with the bracket, it fit very loosely into the the hole on the bracket and I decided to try and find a fix. I found a PVC fitting that fit the hole very tightly. I had to cut the fitting near the center and then heat and stretch the bottom to create a lip that would hold the fitting in place. This fitting also had a lip already on the inside. I found some 1 1/2” PVC spa hose that fit the ID of the plastic fitting almost perfectly. The best part, it doesn’t clear the lip inside the fitting so I can sand it down to squeeze tightly through the hole. This will all minimize the amount of water allowed through the handlepole bracket area. I did check to make sure the pole bolt will clear and it does rub the hose. Does anyone see any problems with my design??? Do you think this hose will wear a hole through itself from the pole flexing up and down??

 

[mikesx]

I’ve been making some progress! After a long conversation with Blowsion, plus some archive photos left over from John it was determined that the handlepole bracket is correct. It was designed to fit exactly as mine does. The hood latch bracket must be relocated 3/4” rearward to line up with the hook on the bracket. I also decided this bracket was what I wanted for my ski and decided to go ahead and mount it. I refilled the hole cut in for my stock handlepole breather, and reinforced it form the inside. I then installed the bracket and marked where the hole should be and started cutting.

View attachment 420298View attachment 420299

I also didn’t like the tube that comes with the bracket, it fit very loosely into the the hole on the bracket and I decided to try and find a fix. I found a PVC fitting that fit the hole very tightly. I had to cut the fitting near the center and then heat and stretch the bottom to create a lip that would hold the fitting in place. This fitting also had a lip already on the inside. I found some 1 1/2” PVC spa hose that fit the ID of the plastic fitting almost perfectly. The best part, it doesn’t clear the lip inside the fitting so I can sand it down to squeeze tightly through the hole. This will all minimize the amount of water allowed through the handlepole bracket area. I did check to make sure the pole bolt will clear and it does rub the hose. Does anyone see any problems with my design??? Do you think this hose will wear a hole through itself from the pole flexing up and down??

View attachment 420300View attachment 420301View attachment 420302View attachment 420303View attachment 420304View attachment 420305View attachment 420306View attachment 420307

IMHO your better off with that hose ran thru to the bottom of hull as in the 4th pic, rather than stopping it flush at the bracket. Harder for the water to get in if the boat is bobbing upside down riderless.

 

[Big Kahuna]

IMHO your better off with that hose ran thru to the bottom of hull as in the 4th pic, rather than stopping it flush at the bracket. Harder for the water to get in if the boat is bobbing upside down riderless.

I agree with Mike, you want it all the way to the bottom.
This way when its upside down, it is above the water line!

 

[brapperdoodle]

IMHO your better off with that hose ran thru to the bottom of hull as in the 4th pic, rather than stopping it flush at the bracket. Harder for the water to get in if the boat is bobbing upside down riderless.

I agree with Mike, you want it all the way to the bottom.
This way when its upside down, it is above the water line!

Totally! I bought a 2' length hose so I could get it into the bottom of the hull, and up the handlepole a bit. The pictures are just to show the tight fit... Do you think the hose will hold up to the flexing of the handlepole and rubbing the pivot bolt? No way around that, this hose is smaller than the Black plastic ribbed tube they provided with the bracket. You can see it in some of the pictures.


Also, what is your opinion on pump inserts? I have stainless or OEM brass…

 

[Big Kahuna]

OEM