E350
Site Supporter
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
How, with what did you sand/shape your strakes?
Back From the Dead - Yamaha FX-2
- Thread starter brapperdoodle
- Start date
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I didn't shape them yet, but I think you are talking about the parts I filled in for the tunnel... Those are just filled with thickened epoxy using cabosil as a thickening agent and also used 1/2" and 1/4" chopped strand in the mix. Chopped strand allows the resin to really "hold together" when you are working it into a groove or surface. I could tell it was trying to pull the entire blob while I was working it smooth. I did find an un-told secret I will share. When your thickened epoxy has flashed and is becoming very tacky, you can dip your finger into some freshly mixed resin and use that same finger to "shape" the thickened mixture. Where the thickened mixture would normally stick to your finger and pull around with movement, the dip of regular resin acts like a lubricant and the thickened mixture will not stick to your finger. This will allow you to really work the thickened mixture to where you want it without disturbing its mass. Thats why those filled in areas look so "smooth" minimal sanding for that area! They will get 1 small layer of 9oz cloth just so I can blend them in flawlessly.
I talked to Don about shaping and came to the conclusion that while this is a science, shape is not absolute. Everything I have done has been measured but when all said and done is eyeballed into shape. Nothing will ever be perfectly symmetrical even though I am incredibly OCD with that type of thing! I think of this as a giant surfboard, hand shaped is better than machine made!!! If it looks good, it is good
I believe that minor variances will never be noticeable and you should trust and enjoy your own hand craft.
Last edited:
E350
Site Supporter
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
Your answer is great. Thanks for the tips which I will use!
However, my specific question was what shape and what woulld you use (e.g., tube wrapped with emory cloth) to true the strakes. There was a thread here about how Jacobs trued the hull of his race ski that way back in the day . . .
However, my specific question was what shape and what woulld you use (e.g., tube wrapped with emory cloth) to true the strakes. There was a thread here about how Jacobs trued the hull of his race ski that way back in the day . . .
- Location
- Asheville, NC
That is a good question... I would probably use PVC that is close to the right size and then use tape around the PVC to get it "perfect" and you could use those pieces to sand the strakes. I was personally just going to sand them by hand and maybe get a bit more scientific if that doesn't work well. I know strakes play a pivotal role in the way a ski handles but I don't think minimal variance would be noticeable to a rec rider. I will just get used to the ski however it rides! Although I am pretty OCD, I have learned to pick and choose my battles haha Like I said, nothing you do will ever be 100% symmetrical. You just have to do your best and believe in your work! The mind is a very powerful thing...
E350
Site Supporter
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
Ok Yoda . . .
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Got a lot of sanding done today, I feel like this thread should just be called “my life, sanding” but the rails look pretty dang straight! Next up is installing the tubbies… getting closer to being finished with all this tedious work every day. I can’t wait to start installing stuff and be done with this composite work haha
- Location
- Asheville, NC
First major problem, hopefully easy to solve… the ride plate mount is in the way of the steering cable holder. Anybody have any suggestions?
also the Worx pump shoe is bottoming out on the tunnel before making contact with the screw surface…
also the Worx pump shoe is bottoming out on the tunnel before making contact with the screw surface…
- Location
- Granbury, TX
For the pump shoe, Is it the the fork part bottoming out, or the thicker part that meets up with the pump?
As for the ride plate mount, you could make a new one with the two hull mounting holes in front of the ride plate bolt to shorten the mount away from the cable holder.
Something like this:
As for the ride plate mount, you could make a new one with the two hull mounting holes in front of the ride plate bolt to shorten the mount away from the cable holder.
Something like this:
Last edited:
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Pump shoe is bottoming out at the top of the tunnel, you can see a chip in it in the picture... chipped right out. I will need to open it up a bit probably to get the correct alignment.
Thats a good idea for the ride plate mount, but that would probably still be in the way. That block in the picture wasn't lined up with the holes, it cant go back far enough. I might need to move them completely. This ride plate is giving me a headache haha
hornedogg79
dodgin' bass boats
Move the steer tube. You can grind the pump shoe but what's most important is that it's flush and tight against the pump when aligned. The hull to shoe gap can be filled with 5200.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Nooooooooooo! Its so perfect, now I have to fill it in and re cut it
I was proud of how good it came out haha I guess I should have checked soonerP.S. Can somebody send me some pictures of where to drill for the trim tube?? In the engine bay and in the pump area... Ive never installed one so im not sure exactly where to put the tube.
hornedogg79
dodgin' bass boats
Trim tube can go about anywhere because the cable is very flexible. The steer cable is stiff so it needs to be near the center of the pump in alignment with the steer nozzle arm. Especially if running trim because when the trim is pulled it raises the steer connection point. Non trim steer nozzles have a low arm but on trim nozzles the arm is in the middle.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I was able to get my installed today, it was difficult but not terrible!
I filled the front of the tubbie with thickened epoxy to fill the area it needed to be trimmed.
I used some of the extra foam from shaping the rails to hold down the rear of the tubbie. Worked perfect!
I filled the front of the tubbie with thickened epoxy to fill the area it needed to be trimmed.
I used some of the extra foam from shaping the rails to hold down the rear of the tubbie. Worked perfect!
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Yesterday was fun, lots of grinding and sanding to get this pump shoe into place. I test fit the pump with and without the pump seal. With the pump seal installed, I have half moons visible through the pump mounting holes.
This should give a nice squish of the pump seal against the shoe. I removed the pump seal and aligned the pump directly over the mounting holes… I have a slight gap at the pump shoe and I believe this is going to fit very well!
It also occurred to me while fitting this pump shoe, it is a Worx 144 shoe and my pump is a 148. Do I need to get a different pump shoe for the 148 or just grind out the 144? Let me know what your opinion is on this.
The last thing I did was stand the ski up and fill in the steering cable through hole. After much thinking and debating, I realized the only option was to lower the hole to clear the ride plate mounting block. Booooo!
This should give a nice squish of the pump seal against the shoe. I removed the pump seal and aligned the pump directly over the mounting holes… I have a slight gap at the pump shoe and I believe this is going to fit very well!
It also occurred to me while fitting this pump shoe, it is a Worx 144 shoe and my pump is a 148. Do I need to get a different pump shoe for the 148 or just grind out the 144? Let me know what your opinion is on this.
The last thing I did was stand the ski up and fill in the steering cable through hole. After much thinking and debating, I realized the only option was to lower the hole to clear the ride plate mounting block. Booooo!
- Location
- Miami FL
This is coming out so clean! Dont stop!
- Location
- Braapp factory
Grind out the 144
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Any ideas on how to do it accurately? Or is it not that sensitive?
- Location
- Braapp factory
Mark the back edge of shoe with a sharpie,
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I got ya, I can use the seal as a guide. But this looks like it’s gonna be pretty thin in areas, and I’m not sure if the pump will line up perfectly with the area I can grind on the shoe. I will need to recheck that everything will align correctly I guess
