Back From the Dead - Yamaha FX-2

M

mikesx

For what it's worth, when I set pump shoes I install the pump w/drive shaft , aligned w/ cold fusion tool to the bulkhead. I have the shoe just held with a bunch a bubble wrap around the driveshaft so I can flip hull over without shoe banging around. With pump and shaft aligned to bulkhead perfectly I then shim/center shoe to pump. The shoe maybe hanging out of the bottom of the tunnel, it may have massive gaps between shoe and tunnel but I always go for seal placement/squeeze out as priority one. That way your able to open id of shoe evenly, not trying to get all the increased diameter from one area. Then I shim behind shoe, build gaps up with epoxy and grind or belt sand anything hanging down. In the pics on this install you can see how much I had to grind off bottom of shoe after aligning to perfectly aligned pump.DSC04314.JPGDSC04315.JPGDSC04320.JPG
 
M

mikesx

No sir. 2nd pic you can see the SBT delrin liner up against face of shoe. I use the SBT just for that reason, you can have it protrude out the front of the housing a little to account for rubber thickness of pump seal if you like. I usually just butt it up though, I’d rather have a good fight compressing that seal than have a leak and have to silicone it after the fact.
 
brapperdoodle

brapperdoodle

Location
Asheville, NC
mikesx said:
No sir. 2nd pic you can see the SBT delrin liner up against face of shoe. I use the SBT just for that reason, you can have it protrude out the front of the housing a little to account for rubber thickness of pump seal if you like. I usually just butt it up though, I’d rather have a good fight compressing that seal than have a leak and have to silicone it after the fact.
Click to expand...

Cool, I couldn't tell if that was a White seal or what haha
 
brapperdoodle

brapperdoodle

Location
Asheville, NC
Ayi yai yai, I went to check the alignment of the handlepole bracket and enlarge the cable hole when I realized this bracket doesn’t fit worth a poop. This is Blowsion’s single hole handlepole bracket for the RN or FX-1, also the mounting hook for the FX-1 hood. I had to machine the holes into the backside of the bracket to fit the hood hook because they do not come pre drilled. Anyways, I mounted the bracket and it is very misaligned. Take a look….

With the bolts in the bracket

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This is without the bolts in, and the bracket pushed as far forward as possible… doesn’t clear the hood hook

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and the stock bracket is a perfect fit…

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this is giving me a headache.
 
hornedogg79

hornedogg79

dodgin' bass boats
I would just sell that bracket or use it on a different hull. Use the stock pole bracket or find one that fits like stock. WDK and cold fusion have worked nice for me in the past.
 
brapperdoodle

brapperdoodle

Location
Asheville, NC
hornedogg79 said:
I would just sell that bracket or use it on a different hull. Use the stock pole bracket or find one that fits like stock. WDK and cold fusion have worked nice for me in the past.
Click to expand...

That seems like what I will end up doing... Does the WDK or Cold Fusion have an area to mount the hood hook? Or something to hold the front of the hood down?
 
brapperdoodle

brapperdoodle

Location
Asheville, NC
I’ve been busy with another project and needed to get it out of my way and parts off my work bench so I haven’t had any time to work on this hull. However, I got the other project all finished up and started back on the FX-1 yesterday afternoon. Sometime in the past couple weeks I had a minute to cut the exhaust and shape it nicely to fit this hull. Also, big thanks to @mikesx for sending me some schedule 80 PVC! I was able to get it over to a buddies shop and make use of his lathe, creating a perfect through hull tube. Take a look!

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I also hand cut the exhaust to match the hull, came out smooth! Is there any reason I shouldn’t have the tube extend into the engine bay so far? I think my SJ is about the same…

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For some reason the hole for the exhaust exit got elongated, you can see a lot of space around it in the pictures. I’m thinking of wrapping the exhaust in packing tape and filling the gap with thickened epoxy… not sure if I should just 5200 it instead, those gaps are pretty big.

Lastly I was able to get my cooling lines cut to length and de-burred. I couldn’t decide wether to go with 1/2” lines or 3/8” lines and in the end I decided to just stick with 3/8” lines. I will be running dual cooling and spoke with Paul about 1/2” dual cooling and he said that it could be borderline too much with the 735 Shredder engine I will be running. I honestly have no interest in running some huge cc engine and decided that 3/8” cooling should be plenty for anything I will ever run. I also got my trim tube cut into place and cut the tube to length. I decided to use a 5/8” line for the trim because it seems like the 1/2” line doesn’t make a good seal on the rubber outlet piece… any reason I shouldn’t use a 5/8” tube?

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This is the 1/2” line
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This is the 5/8” line with the rubber fitting…3FC1D0E8-C786-40AB-AD41-F88AC00EC08D.jpeg8B20556E-821B-4A35-94A5-E5F1E2EC6A6C.jpeg
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
I would recommend using the 5/8 inch line for trim, I have a ski that I used a 1/2" line and it wasn't big enough to fit the little knob on the end of my trim cable. Also, put a little rubber booty thing on both the inside and outside end of the trim cable for a little extra insurance. I've swamped a ski because the little bootie thing on my trim cable slid off of the trim tube.

To me, I would use the 1/2" water lines because you can very easily restrict the water flow in other places, but if you ever need/want you can't make them bigger. I wouldn't stress about it much though as two 3/8" lines seems like plenty.
 
brapperdoodle

brapperdoodle

Location
Asheville, NC
Storbeck said:
To me, I would use the 1/2" water lines because you can very easily restrict the water flow in other places, but if you ever need/want you can't make them bigger. I wouldn't stress about it much though as two 3/8" lines seems like plenty.
Click to expand...

I still can, I just don't feel like making a cooling distribution block haha. Does anybody just sell those? The two 1/2" lines in the side with the three 3/8" lines coming out the top? Paul said the same thing, run 1/2" lines and use a distribution block. Just cap 1 of the 3 lines out so its two 3/8" lines cooling.
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
I'm not understanding why you would need a distribution block, just run the half inch lines wherever you were going to run the 3/8 inch lines, you can then restrict the water wherever you want but usually it's best (In my opinion) to restrict where it's coming out of the motor, not in. It can be as simple as a hose clamp on each line going to a pisser and tighten the hose clamp as needed, or get a little fancier and find something to insert into the line (piece of smaller tubing, plastic spacer from hardware store or mcmaster, make your own by boring a hole in a little chunk of round stock in a lathe), or spend the big bucks and get the fancy billet things that you can put restrictors in.

If you want to buy a distribution block you can use manifolds sold for pneumatics. McMaster or Automation direct.


www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
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sxi4evr

sxi4evr

Location
Charlotte, NC
I agree with keeping 3/8 lines everywhere and I have the 735 motor from Paul too.

My new hull came with 1/2 hardline in the hull, I just use the soft 3/8" cooling line because it stretches over the 1/2" hardline
 
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