Super Jet Basic SN build !Completed! *Tuning time*

[lamar311]

Sorry man...I had no idea you didn't know the process until I saw how you were glassing. Sorry sir.

Its wetting the cloth that I think is causing you the issue. You need to wet it on both sides before you apply.

 

[Quinc]

First layer of 12oz laid and sanded! Hull is still fairly light (for an SN) I can still pick it up and carry it from the garage to outside etc where before I needed a helping hand.

 

[Quinc]

Any tips tricks for ensuring it is water tight? Should I scotch guard it before I turf? =)

 

[Roseand]

If you did it completely with biax, a tighter weaved cloth vote everything helps seal water out. Biax had pinholes, etc. And you could lightly thicken resin and spread it everywhere too..

And what Lamar said about wetting out biax beforehand is soooo useful. Everywhere there could be a seem I would run a piece of cloth over it IMO.


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[lamar311]

Water tight is tough....it will most likely never be completely water tight. The resin will fill in the pin holes but I wouldn't worry about scotch guarding it. Also, I didnt' spend much time sanding between layers. Not that its not a good idea but I am hoping you are not spending hours on that part. If you are laying the cloth correctly you should only have some stickers to grind off at the edges and maybe an air bubble or two to grind out and fill with thickened resin.

Between laying cloth layers take a really good look and see if you can find any air bubbles. Than take a dremel or air grinder and grind out the material and expose the gap. You'll want to fill the holes with resin thickened with either microbubbles or with cabosil. Microbubbles are lighter and sand easier/ cabosil is stronger. No need to wait for the thickened resin to dry before applying another layer of cloth as it was help adhere the next layer anyway into the hole

Looks really good Quinc...I think you'll be cruising from here on in. The rest of the work gets tedious but is easier once the structure is laid.

 

[Quinc]

Any reason why I shouldn't cut this back part out? Will it handle any different or spray me in the arse while riding?

 

[lamar311]

Cut it off! if you decide to go with a trim set up you wont' want to to be there anyway. Look how I turfed the back of my tray...I wrapped it all the way around. Came out pretty cool.

Getting closer!

 

[Roseand]

Cutting the corners of the rails will change the way your ski grabs the water when you turn and carve. It's designed that way for a reason.. It'll definitely make it more slippery if you cut off the corner of the rails. Someone else will chime in too hopefully.

Btw, how many hours did shortening the rear add to the build?

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[Quinc]

Cutting the corners of the rails will change the way your ski grabs the water when you turn and carve. It's designed that way for a reason.. It'll definitely make it more slippery if you cut off the corner of the rails. Someone else will chime in too hopefully.

Btw, how many hours did shortening the rear add to the build?

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I have seen alot of a/m skis and builds where it missing so I think it should be fine. cutting the rear only took about 30 minutes! haha if I where to do it again i would fill it with two part foam or great stuff after cutting, sand it to shape and then glass.

 

[Roseand]

How long did the Glassing take when you shortened the hull, etc. I'm so tempted while my hull is completely stripped and cut open to do it..

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[Quinc]

How long did the Glassing take when you shortened the hull, etc. I'm so tempted while my hull is completely stripped and cut open to do it..

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Just the shortening part, screwing with the exhaust, adding 5200 to everything etc maybe a few hours. Doing the whole tray took what seems like forever...

 

[Roseand]

Yeah I'm not looking forward to doing my tray ;(

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[Yami-Rider]

Any reason why I shouldn't cut this back part out? Will it handle any different or spray me in the arse while riding?

I have heard it improves handling. The rails can cut into the water better without turbulence, or atleast thats the theory.

We did it to my brothers SN and didnt seem to hurt anything.

 

[Roseand]

I know it's definitely supposed to improve handling on the 08+ hulls.

 

[hesty32]

Looking good quinc! Making me wish I would have done more on mine while I had it cut up! I'm sure I'll have another chance....

Did you "reweld" the flange on your exhaust tube? Looks like you hull angle is different now from stock and wondering how you got the flange to lay flush on the outside of the hull.

 

[Quinc]

Looking good quinc! Making me wish I would have done more on mine while I had it cut up! I'm sure I'll have another chance....

Did you "reweld" the flange on your exhaust tube? Looks like you hull angle is different now from stock and wondering how you got the flange to lay flush on the outside of the hull.

Correct it is has some angle to it now. My dad was kind enough to cut a piece of stainless and weld it on at that angle. You could also just cut the pipe at an angle and ditch the flange like Lamar311 did in his build.

 

[lamar311]

Cutting the corners of the rails will change the way your ski grabs the water when you turn and carve. It's designed that way for a reason.. It'll definitely make it more slippery if you cut off the corner of the rails. Someone else will chime in too hopefully.

Btw, how many hours did shortening the rear add to the build?

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This is correct...it does change the handling....FORE THE BETTER! I left my rails on the side and angled them up and cut the rear off completely. Ski turns on a dime..but who knows how that actually affected the boat with all the other crap I did to the hull. I knew I didn't want it as I am installing trim right now. Additionally, the ski will ride more nose high with a chopped rear. No need for that lip to add more drag.

On that note..I can help you save big money on a trim set up with about 15 min of fab time. Doing mine right now and I was shocked at the cost of the trim lever offered at Blowsion. $90????? are you kidding me. I went to a bike shop and bought a used set of mountain bike brake levers (I went used as I wasn't sure they would work). Took me 15 min to mod the lever and it works identically to my buddy's "flip lever" from blowsion. Total build cost...$5.40.

Anyway back to your regularly scheduled program.

 

[lamar311]

Sorry about the rant..The cost of Blowsion just bugs me LOL.

 

[Roseand]

Nah its all good! Yeah keeping parts of the side rails is good. You need those to dig in to carve.
Oh yeah blowsion is a fortune.
Hence why people do stuff like the "CATS" trim system.

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[lamar311]

Yes...I left them on the side and rounded them up to the flat lip I created. Most A/M hulls do this.

The CATS system is crap. You don't wan to use a Terry Cable as they stretch under pressure over time or break. You want to use a skat cable ($100 + ship) and than fab your own lever and use a raider or other couch set up for the back. The cable is pricey but the lever to me being the same price was just stupid... hence the bike lever modified. Terry Cables will work with a break lever no problem..the Skat cable is set up for the "Blowsion" pull lever. (I am sure they is a coincidence that it fits nothing else .....yeah..right).

Sorry to jack your thread Qunic! Lets get this back on track