I began that thread last year, for I desired to address the forever old issue of localism… “turf wars” (which can be outrageously fun, or downright nasty, sadly).
I knew my thread would not make the issue go away, and I think it would be naïve of anyone to believe that localism will ever vanish. I simply wished to address it, so I did of course, and I played around in the thread, as usual, like others did too.:Banane01: I was born on the coast of Florida long ago, and I spent almost every day in the surf during the summertime when school was out, and then some too indeed…
I believe the truth of what I learned long ago, is that certain people will travel great distances for surf…wherever it is hitting that day…others will stay at their self-designated spot, due to personal reasons…
I was saving this picture for a special occasion; that is why I did not donate it to Wetracer Magazine, along with many others I still have saved. I took this photo during the fund raiser I helped Brian of Thrust Innovations organize earlier this year, in order to benefit those suffering in Haiti. My hat is still off to Brian for that, and I believe it always will be too. It is my favorite picture of Nick that day, and it was at Monster Hole in Sebastian Inlet, for those not aware. It was a good day, not the best, and by far not the worst, as far as surf goes for that location. I had a blast too!
When hanging at the surf (for me at least), it is nice when it is only a few locals, just as it is nice when it is mega people. I personally like it when I can share it with people who have never been…wherever I happen to be that day. My favorite thing though, is finding a place I have never been, and my absolute favorite thing, is finding it by accident. Then it is like a special gift of a jewel to me, and so I remember it that way.
Just felt like sharing…
