Other Bilge switch keeps taking a poop

[willcastner]

I have a rule 500 GPH in my 750 SXI. I had the ski down to the hull to do repairs and paint. Since I have put it back together I have burned up two toggle switches for the bilge pump. I had a switch wired up the exact same way last year but I replaced in because it was rusty(still worked though). Both switches I wrecked were heavy duty waterproof and different manufactures. I have it wired directly to the battery with all connections soldered and heat shrinked. Any ideas?


Will

 

[Kaup_921]

If you put a fuse on it that will blow before your switch. Show us how you have it wired.

 

[tor*p*do]

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/87756-OCD-Solutions-Presents-the-quot-Surf-Armor-quot-Bilge-Switch.

 

[willcastner]

I think I did well on the picture. The only explaining I will do is that i have to two brown(brown and brown/white stripe) wires from the bilge pump wired together to the switch. The directions told me to wire them together id not useing the automatic draw method.


Will

 

[willcastner]

I was thinking that it may be just the ty "waterproof" switches I bought.


Will

 

[Kaup_921]

I donno all i can come up with is that its grounding out or the pump is bad.

 

[227]

Use this wiring diagram. I always solder and heat shrink my connections also. Don’t skimp on the switch, the switch is usually the most expensive part of a good bilge system. I use the one pictured below. I’ve never had to replace it and it’s about 5 yrs old now. It’s outlasted several pumps. You can get one from Blowsion for like $75.


Bilge pump Wiring diagram

Totally submersible bilge switch

 

[nightrider05]

Hot Products has a "Rotary Switch" that is a 3 way switch. They are waterproof and very reliable. They typically run around $30, but are well worth the price. They also sell a metal protector for the switch, but it costs more than the switch so I just bought a back up bilge switch instead. However I can't seem to keep them...all my friends see them and end up buying my spares EVERY time I have one.

 

[willcastner]

227 that is how I have mine wired up. I am going to buy one of these OCD military switches and try that. Could a ty switch die with in one day?

Will

 

[nightrider05]

227 that is how I have mine wired up. I am going to buy one of these OCD military switches and try that. Could a ty switch die with in one day?

Will

Im tellin ya..for about the same price you can have one of those rotary switches. In my opinion they look cleaner and being a three way switch allow you to do more with them.

A cheap switch can easily go bad in one day. Most switches aren't made to be soaked.

 

[willcastner]

My only concern with the rotary switch is I mounted my toggle directly un the hood latch and im not sure if the rotary will fit.

Will

 

[AtomicPunk]

you want the switch wired to the ground side not the +12V.

 

[Freakrider]

you want the switch wired to the ground side not the +12v.

x2

 

[eeerieski]

I'm using a big rocker that isn't by any means water sealed, it worked the first year I used the ski (switch came with it used), this spring the switch wasn't working so I cleaned the contacts and coated everything with bulb grease, no problems since.
When it dies i'm upgrading to this: http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/pump-switch-bilge-mini-12v-15amp-water-witch-172809/4,31878.html

 

[Cliff]

Use this wiring diagram. I always solder and heat shrink my connections also. Don’t skimp on the switch, the switch is usually the most expensive part of a good bilge system. I use the one pictured below. I’ve never had to replace it and it’s about 5 yrs old now. It’s outlasted several pumps. You can get one from Blowsion for like $75.


Bilge pump Wiring diagram

Totally submersible bilge switch

these are junk too

 

[227]

you want the switch wired to the ground side not the +12V.

Why? I have no electrical training but from what I've read elec parts need to be grounded at all times. If you cut the ground through the switch then your voiding this rule. Explain please.

 

[227]

these are junk too

I've tried every other cheap switch available. Radio shack, West marine, Toggle, tank, camera housing, etc. These are the only ones that have lasted for me. Also they are handle bar mounted and actived with your thumb for convienence, unlike a switch that you have to dash mount where yo have to lean over and twist to turn on. Explain please.

 

[MattyBoom]

I never had luck with my handle bar mounted bilge switch, i would do the rotary switch or something tucked away in the engine bay, turn it on when u go out then turn it off when you get back in, my 1100 never drained my battery and i had a small light weight batt

 

[Kaup_921]

I put these on 2 skis but have yet to use them so I don't know how they'll hold up.

http://ad-discountperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1028_7_206&products_id=1175

 

[227]

There’s no right or wrong on which switch to use or which way to mount it, it’s all personal preference. I’m just sharing what’s worked well (And lasted the test of time) for me. I actually don’t use the mounting bracket provided (because I hit my knee on it) Instead, I rotated my OEM start/stop switch housing 90 degrees and glued the bare switch directly to the OEM housing. I used some masking tape to make a mold and poured in JB weld to build up a flat surface on my OEM start/stop switch housing so I would have a flat surface to glue the switch onto. This set up has lasted through hundreds of Back-flops and ¾ barrel rolls. My switch does comes un-glued about every six months or so but it still works after 5 yrs and I simply re-glue it back on.