- Location
- Near Seattle WA
Rotary switch.
Best solution.. $38.00 http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/Rotary_Switch.htm
Thanks,
Randy
Best solution.. $38.00 http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/Rotary_Switch.htm
Thanks,
Randy
Other Bilge switch keeps taking a poop
- Thread starter willcastner
- Start date
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
I can't believe people still use switches at all. What a waste, when you can get this and it will last forever, plus, less wiring on your ski. Built in float switch. (small little ping pong ball floats up and turns it on).
Not to mention it uses less battery juice because it is only on when needed, you won't forget and leave it on killing your battery and if you lose your ski and it starts to sink, it turns on the pump for you (safety!)
Best pump ever.
Not to mention it uses less battery juice because it is only on when needed, you won't forget and leave it on killing your battery and if you lose your ski and it starts to sink, it turns on the pump for you (safety!)
Best pump ever.
Attachments
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227
Its all about the surf!
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
I tried one of those also. It didn't work well in my ski because the constant up and down motion of the ski where I ride made the pump turn off and on constantly and the switch burnt out in a short time.
CPI & rotary switches are both still pieces of junk. The ONLY good switch I've seen is the square handlebar mount one with a quarter sized round single pushbutton... Not sure the make.
Just get a good waterproof fuse holder and pull the fuse and be done with it.
Just get a good waterproof fuse holder and pull the fuse and be done with it.
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- Location
- NH
I think I am going to try the OCD Solutions switch. What is the confusion on wither or not to wire the switch inline to the 12+ or the NEG lead?
Will
Will
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
bilge switches fail. this one is my fave and it NEVER fails! plus its simple and no hole in the dash.
I've spent close to $100 on cheap switches, waterproof switches, and just about everything else you can think of. They're all crap and eventually take a dump. Some last longer than others though. The only thing I've had success with has been an electrical connector or an inline fuse holder but even then, you have to replace the fuse every couple months because the metal cap comes off the glass tube. Unfortunately, I had to go back to a switch though because I'm running one of the lightweight batteries and can't leave the switch on 100% of the time like I used to. The only automatic bilge switch I would use would be the ones that require 7-8 seconds of constant water before they turn on. The float switch is dumb on a jetski IMO since it'll turn the bilge on and off hundreds of times during the ride which is actually worse than leaving it on since you have a typically draw a higher current draw when the motor turns on.
My advice. If you ride surf, run something good and have a good backup. If you run flatwater, run whatever you want but have a backup ready and replace it at the first sign of it acting weird. I've learned to treat switches like spark plugs. When they start getting ugly or old, I replace them.
My advice. If you ride surf, run something good and have a good backup. If you run flatwater, run whatever you want but have a backup ready and replace it at the first sign of it acting weird. I've learned to treat switches like spark plugs. When they start getting ugly or old, I replace them.
They make blade and mini blade fuse holders that are waterproof too.
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
- Location
- Hokesbluff,al
they quit just as quick as anything else. we have tried them all. the rotary switch is by far the best but it will lay down too. one thing to keep in mind, we probally ride more than most people and are hard on our stuff.
227
Its all about the surf!
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
No DJ not the exact same one but the one I had, had the built in float switch and it was made by rule. It was a while a go, so maybe a previous model? Any way not important. I understand everything fails over time, and from what every one else is saying, it sounds like my five year switch is the exception to the rule, rather than the norm. I guess I just got lucky and got a good one.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
There are different grades of those CPI switches so it depends more on which one you get. My first one came with a ski I bought and lasted over 7 years for me. It was made to military spec though and most are just a general grade.
Its replacement felt much cheaper and didn't last a season. If you get the military spec one, it will last a long time but expect to pay over $75 for it.
The rotary switches have proven to be one of the best deals going as they are priced well and fully sealed. The wires and terminals always seemed cheap to me, as does the rest of the switch but they still seem to outlast everything else, especially if you replace the connectors with a good oem type bullet connector.
The Military toggles are another great option and stand up very well. Where they differ from other toggles is their seal around the toggle bat itself. While the switch itself will last for years, the usual failure point on military toggles is the screw connections on the back of the switch which brings me to my salt water prepped "Surf Armor" switches. I remove the screws and solder tinned marine wire directly into the switch and then encapsulate the whole thing in a special potting expoxy.
At $45 a switch, my surf armor toggles may not be the cheapest but I have not had a single one fail yet, even after a full year in the surf. As my confidence grows in my product, so does my warranty. At this point I offer a one year warranty but I am looking to push that to 3 years as testing continues.
I am currently looking for a couple test subjects to receive free switches to punish so if you think you are hard on switches and nothing can stand up to your regime, send me a PM with your story and I may be able to change your luck.
Its replacement felt much cheaper and didn't last a season. If you get the military spec one, it will last a long time but expect to pay over $75 for it.
The rotary switches have proven to be one of the best deals going as they are priced well and fully sealed. The wires and terminals always seemed cheap to me, as does the rest of the switch but they still seem to outlast everything else, especially if you replace the connectors with a good oem type bullet connector.
The Military toggles are another great option and stand up very well. Where they differ from other toggles is their seal around the toggle bat itself. While the switch itself will last for years, the usual failure point on military toggles is the screw connections on the back of the switch which brings me to my salt water prepped "Surf Armor" switches. I remove the screws and solder tinned marine wire directly into the switch and then encapsulate the whole thing in a special potting expoxy.
At $45 a switch, my surf armor toggles may not be the cheapest but I have not had a single one fail yet, even after a full year in the surf. As my confidence grows in my product, so does my warranty. At this point I offer a one year warranty but I am looking to push that to 3 years as testing continues.
I am currently looking for a couple test subjects to receive free switches to punish so if you think you are hard on switches and nothing can stand up to your regime, send me a PM with your story and I may be able to change your luck.
astandupguy
beer/jetski=good
- Location
- so-cal
in the aircraft world, (im an avionics guy) i wire alot of things that use a switched ground, active lo. you simply disrupt current flow. the nice thing about switchin the ground, is that if your wires chafe or get pinched, you dont blow the fuse, the pump just turns on. make sense?
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
The bad thing about switching the ground only, 12VDC is present at your pump at all times. DC and moisture do not mix and it starts to build that green corrosion with even the slightest path to ground. You may find that your connections and pumps do not last as long.
astandupguy
beer/jetski=good
- Location
- so-cal
i can believe it, i dont wire boats. no problems yet with mine, but i want an extra switch now, after hearing everyone talk about how crappy my blowsion one is.
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
I'm glad someone knows what there talking about in this thread. Always switch the power!
- Location
- Largo, Fl
I have a few years in the auto electronics industry, wired a few boats and touched a couple planes. I have been running my bilges this way (switching ground) for years and I ride only saltwater.
Quick question, what does Yamaha switch (+ or -) on the start switch? How about the stop switch? I realize they are momentary switches, but the logic is still the same.
we can agree to disagree too (wont hurt my feelings) :silly:
I'll pick up one of these switches for sure when mine finally dies.
Quick question, what does Yamaha switch (+ or -) on the start switch? How about the stop switch? I realize they are momentary switches, but the logic is still the same.
we can agree to disagree too (wont hurt my feelings) :silly:
I'll pick up one of these switches for sure when mine finally dies.
Freakrider
X247
- Location
- Tampa Bay area
How can 12VDC be present at your pump at all times when the circuit is not complete/ off ? just asking....
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
I
This only applies to the guys that are switching the ground instead of the positive wire. If you connect a wire to the positive terminal of the battery then it now has the same potential to ground as the battery so there will be 12VDC positive voltage applied to the pump at all times. Any parasitic leakage to ground from that point, right up to the output side of the switch, will provide a path to ground and allow a current drain on your battery and help aid the formation of corrosion.
If you need a better example, look over a boat sometime and you will see corrosion and oxidation on the positive side of the switching devices. Ie: battery isolators, solenoids, panel busses, etc. Any terminal that is regularly powered up, will grow corrosion at a much higher rate than non powered ones. Experienced boat owners will install a master switch on saltwater boats and turn the entire boat off. This reduces the maintenance down to just one switch point.
Here is a perfect example...you effectively move this reaction down to the pump.
This only applies to the guys that are switching the ground instead of the positive wire. If you connect a wire to the positive terminal of the battery then it now has the same potential to ground as the battery so there will be 12VDC positive voltage applied to the pump at all times. Any parasitic leakage to ground from that point, right up to the output side of the switch, will provide a path to ground and allow a current drain on your battery and help aid the formation of corrosion.
If you need a better example, look over a boat sometime and you will see corrosion and oxidation on the positive side of the switching devices. Ie: battery isolators, solenoids, panel busses, etc. Any terminal that is regularly powered up, will grow corrosion at a much higher rate than non powered ones. Experienced boat owners will install a master switch on saltwater boats and turn the entire boat off. This reduces the maintenance down to just one switch point.
Here is a perfect example...you effectively move this reaction down to the pump.
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OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
If all your circuits are well insulated and you keep the water out, then you will be okay.
Yamaha switches the positive and when you do have issue with your stop/start check out which wire is the problem. Usually the one bringing power to the switch is corroded green or black and the switched wire connections are still pristine.
I am not saying it can't be done, just pointing out that it may be less forgiving.
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