Other bpipe pressure relative to amount to open the top water screw for best spray patterns

Thanks "masterblaster" for this write up. Ive been riding SJs since 1996 and never took the time to set up my pipe properly. I listened to everyone..... who listened to the guy before them....... . Just dumped money into mods and hoped for the best. Set my pipe up with 1/4 on top, closed the rest and restricted water exiting head pipe. In my case got better bottom, mid, and top. Verified this with GPS and running against my sitdown. Night and day difference. Props brother!!!
 
place flow control valve from the pipe output after the Y over board right in front of the stinger.The valves need to be tuned to perform best,some are threaded adjustable,most are not. It is a important setting,it controls the pressure and amount of water flowing into the waterbox and pressure in the head pipe somewhat depending on the length of the hose coming from the Y to over board pisser. I have a non adjustable,I take it apart and stretch the spring to get the desired flow.I find it best to pull that line off and run the ski in the water against the dock and set it so that it only opens with top end throttle. then double check the water box after 5 min of ride time to make sure its just cool enough to not melt anything around it,

Running a dry box really helps low end response as well,not as much as having the right water setting on top screw,but alot. Most dont realize how much diff it makes.I actually use it as a quick detune for surf riding. along with a slight change to the bpipe top screw with the t handle screw,takes just a min.I remove the ball completely from the valve. I like a much more soft linear hit in surf to not get worn out as quick,also makes the exhaust 2x less loud for long rides. Cool little trick for dual purpose skis

mybad...you must have had way to much water going through your pipe screw settings before you changed it,this setting does not provide better top end performance than some other good settings for other purposes..but around here who cares about sustained top end right? Some people dont mind the delayed response with the trade off of more top end power. I personally hate it. IF the motor isnt responding at the precise same speed as im pulling the throttle... its not good enough yet !
 
Just "tuned" the head pipe on the garden hose yesterday. Surprisingly all my screws turned. I could not get the top one closed so have it open to where i feel is comfortable and closed the bottom two.
My screws were letting in a retarded amount of water and i noticed my ski ran WAY too cool before so i hope this is as noticeable as you say! Testing this weekend.
 
HOLY CRAP!! What a difference this made. bottom and middle closed (bottom barely dribbles) and top open around 3/4 ish.
I switched from a stock 701 to a stock 760 and dried the pipe out.. WOW, just wow. Very responsive, more low end, and just feels like it runs healthier.
 
Nice man.Most people have no idea how much water is coming in the bottom and mid screw even when they think they are closed or even in some case when they are closed they still spray alot,I epoxied more than a few now,its very simple to drill out. A msd spray bar with the correct size jet plumed in right behind it added even further up the headpipe right over the mani works even better,directionaly spraying upwards into the exhaust flow. gives the ultimate response and low end power with a slightly larger sacrifice of top end power
 
"mybad...you must have had way to much water going through your pipe screw settings before you changed it,this setting does not provide better top end performance than some other good settings for other purposes..but around here who cares about sustained top end right? Some people dont mind the delayed response with the trade off of more top end power. I personally hate it. IF the motor isnt responding at the precise same speed as im pulling the throttle... its not good enough yet !"

Masterblaster Yes. You are correct. I had the top open 1/2, bottom open 1/4, and flow control to stinger was to much. All I needed was 1/4 on top and less flow to stinger. Never payed much attention to settings before. Thanks again Bro.
 
First post edit,one other thing I have had success with is using half inch fittings and cooling lines from pump to mani and then 3/8ths outa the head,if you dont run a split cooling system,keeps pressure high but doesnt over cool cylinder,otherwise just run 1/2 inch straight to the head pipe from the pump
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Ever checked the pressure at different points in the syetem? Pressure would drop, volume would increase..
 

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
I just put one into my dry pipe manifold, not running a water injection solenoid just a jet as restriction. We shall see if it works as well as it does on a B pipe.
 
it works even better on the dry pipe.The bpipe really only works better water injected with a spray bar or setup from the top screw with smaller non pv motors. It works better dryer with larger pv motors. Once you get into larger pipes made for larger cc motors,they work better for low end response water injected for almost all size cc and pv types.
 

Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
I would like to know where on a bpipe to add an msd spraybar? I have a headpipe with busted screws and an msd spray bar. Anyone have pics? Any insight is helpful, before I start drilling.
It will be on a 701 in a carbon ski.
 

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
Found a picture of my last one, it's a little further towards the coupler than I thought. (And a crappy picture)
full-9_1.jpg
 
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