Other bpipe pressure relative to amount to open the top water screw for best spray patterns

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
You want the engine to run warm/hot. Unless you are running a big bore or in 80+ degree water, dual 3/8th lines are more then enough. I run duals on my 771 and have to restrict flow to keep the engine and chamber temps up.
 

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
My question was more about the flow to the pipe. My motor and pipe are on seperate lines because I ride cooler water and don't need dual cooling to the motor
 
dont post here much anymore with the drama queers . Its tough to fix the top screw well if it flows alot at full shut,long as your other screws are not flowing at all,you should prolly be ok,the others are easy to perm seal if they are flowing at full shut,almost anything will work,its a tiny hole.
Setting the top screw so tight that your getting 200 deg or anywhere close really,defeats the purpose of using the top screw to keep pipe cool enough to respond off bottom end.

spec blasters work better with bottom screw open a bit,to heat the the pipe up and turn higher rpms. a reverse mech pressure valve helps to get it off bottom faster,keeps it in right temp range for off idle responce,especially out the gate before you get the pipe hot
 

RMBC Freeride

Vintage
Site Supporter
Location
Pueblo, CO
If anyone has an old 2-screw headpipe (AKA one that is NOT stamped "B" or the Mariner pipe), be sure to check out the flow!!! This belongs to a friend and the bottom hole (fixed) sprays a TON of water! And his middle screw won't close so it is spraying too.

Going to try a restrictor or plug that hole entirely!

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I'm watering my lawn with this thing!!!!! :D :p


Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
 
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just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
^ I had one and plugged the hole entirely. FP actually told me to do it. Wow, I knew it was too much water, but would not have imagined it was that much!
 
wow thats a ton of water,some headpipes are sim to this one. what do the other holes spray like. Can always epoxy it shut and redrill a realistic size hole
 

smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
Just pulled my headpipe off and did the check. I had top and bottom 1/2 open. Both were just dumping huge perfect cylinders of water. Surprisingly both sealed perfectly when gently closed, middle was closed and not leaking (my pipe is ~3-4 years old and I've been vigilant about keeping them clean and antisiezed - but this was the first time I turned them in ~2.5 years). I got my top screw to give a good misty spray, it ended up just a hair under 1/4 turn, kept mid and bottom closed. Gonna test ride tomorrow, can't wait to report the results!
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
How about water line setup:

How some people run the cooling lines:
index.php


How Factory recommends running them:
route201.jpg
 
I have a 950 i just dropped in a hull that I am going to run like the first picture. Previous builds had a fcv forward of the Y fitting on route to the stinger. Argh

In the pic is my last set up. Did not have that much punch. Top screw 1/2. Temps on headpipe 185, chamber 180, head 148. h20 box 90 cooling.jpg
 
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You need the flow control between the Y and the stinger otherwise it's preaty much pointless

Yeah that seems to be the way . Whats up with the sketch then, now found two version of it just with the fcv in different places. Something dodgy going on
 
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these type billet motors with 4 outlets for cooling can be more difficult to tune with a bpipe, its a balancing act, the billet cylinder needs more outlets to keep cylinder temps under control,creating a high flow rate,but low pressure state in the entire system.The bpipe relies on water pressure through the whole head pipe to cool it and inject water into the pipe to control pipe temp. With this cylinder,water temps going to the head pipe is already hotter than most,requiring even more water pressure to hit the correct pipe temp for low end response. Not difficult to do in cold spring,fall water temps,but tough in dog day summer water. Try to temp block off the 2 extra high flow rate pissers and see what kinda pipe response you get,vs motor temps. then use restrictions in those 2 lines to find the best balance.
The rrp wetpipe and pfp when used as wet pipe.use a dedicated injection line separate of the manifold cooling water,the T fitting is placed in front of the manifold cooling fitting so pressure is very high in any kind of motor cooling setup,the only disadvantage in that all sand or solids passing through the line have to be filtered as not to clog the jet.Ive thought of trying to drill the rrp mani and tap it where the cooling jacket is for the jet and a plug on outside,solids would bypass the jet as they do in the bpipe. more trouble than its worth really
 
I have 1 restrictor (1.5mm since drilled to 3mm) off the T in the most forward water bypass, Back track and the circuit goes to an FCV down to the stinger. I had to drill out the restrictor as it kept getting blocked and the fcv was always blasted open loading the box.
 
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