Broke out the saw. 650 shorten/ lighten

How does this elbow normally work? I noticed once it was primed, it turned into a reverse siphon and pulled water from outside into my hull and sank it. If I drill a tiny hole in it will it be able to suck it out still, but not flow back in?
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Hooked up the trim, just made a tight fitting loop. Should work for a while. The bike cables I found are too short so I'll have a straight bare section of cable running under the engine, but it seems like it will do.
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
How does this elbow normally work? I noticed once it was primed, it turned into a reverse siphon and pulled water from outside into my hull and sank it. If I drill a tiny hole in it will it be able to suck it out still, but not flow back in?
6c044eedd88af5dcbbefb1be9fba5c54.jpg


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It needs to be higher than the waterline and the line needs to be hooked to your reduction nozzle on an outlet facing backwards. It functions on the venturi principle just like your carbs etc.
 
I can't answer these questions for you.

I spent years chasing performance and when I rode the people's skis I was taking advice from I found out I was taking bad advice. Some people have ridden my X2 and though it was awesome, while I find it disappointing. I have found that people have wildly different expectations of performance and riding experiences vary. You may never have a single issue with water.

At a minimum you'd have to patch the hole, buy a waterbox, buy hoses. buy an exhaust outlet and re paint. Your ski is done the way you have it. I think you should just run it as is. You can change the exhaust later if you are having issues.
I think the weight of the water in the box is enough to pull my nose under and if there are waves it takes on water. I'm going to try this piece of bent hose to create a high point about 4" higher than normal. Hopefully it works.
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I think the weight of the water in the box is enough to pull my nose under and if there are waves it takes on water. I'm going to try this piece of bent hose to create a high point about 4" higher than normal. Hopefully it works.
85c20e2f5ba1b3d72abeee58d07fcbcb.jpg


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Not sure how that's going to work for you. You have that hooked up backwards from stock. It's worth a try if you can get your pipe lined up with the bottom hose on the waterbox.
 
Not sure how that's going to work for you. You have that hooked up backwards from stock. It's worth a try if you can get your pipe lined up with the bottom hose on the waterbox.
Its drilled out... couldn't I just spin both fittings 180 degrees and it would be the same directional flow as stock, but just upside down? There are no brackets on the water box so I can spin it easily.

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Spent little time in the garage today. I extended the steering linkage and moved it in a little so it will work with my trim nozzle. I also moved the steering ball in about 1/2 inch for a cheap quick steer mod. I welded it so that I can just do a little grinding and have it back to stock incase I need to get rid of the trim. I might still need to move the one on the handlebars out, I'll see how much it wants to bind up first.

I also enlarged the manifold holes and ground 1/4" off of my pipe hangar to keep the Pipe away from the hull. I wish I could have thought about that before I nodded my hull. There's plenty of room to squeeze it in with this method. Probably up to 1/2" if needed.

Got a new skat 15 and chucked my old prop.

Printed a pteg tailcone and filled it with grease.

I'm also working on a new fuel pickup. With my chopped hood, the fuel lines are getting pinched coming out of the tank. I can't get it airtight though.
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Spent little time in the garage today. I extended the steering linkage and moved it in a little so it will work with my trim nozzle. I also moved the steering ball in about 1/2 inch for a cheap quick steer mod. I welded it so that I can just do a little grinding and have it back to stock incase I need to get rid of the trim. I might still need to move the one on the handlebars out, I'll see how much it wants to bind up first.

I also enlarged the manifold holes and ground 1/4" off of my pipe hangar to keep the Pipe away from the hull. I wish I could have thought about that before I nodded my hull. There's plenty of room to squeeze it in with this method. Probably up to 1/2" if needed.

Got a new skat 15 and chucked my old prop.

Printed a pteg tailcone and filled it with grease.

I'm also working on a new fuel pickup. With my chopped hood, the fuel lines are getting pinched coming out of the tank. I can't get it airtight though.
4279fd7b25a466ed65f25c80786564ef.jpg
e9475e54a6297c683d7861ee73ef55de.jpg
cfeff3548de924a9243bf8d0602747ba.jpg
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Please do not run a 3d printed fuel pickup.

Welding the steering might be a quick fix but it reminds me of homer simpson adding elbow patches to his jacket. There is a better way.

The kawasaki X2 coupling nut from the trim system fits onto the steering cable. I'm sure you could get one or 2 of them cheap if you post in the want to buy section. You can use a long bolt or a piece of threaded rod after using the coupler nut. Use an extra nut on both ends of the coupler nut as a lock nut to prevent the coupler nut from getting loose.

If you cut a bolt or rod, put a tap/die on it before cutting, cut, grind the nub then remove the tap. This makes it much easier to prevent cross threading after cutting a bolt.

You could also tap a piece of aluminum bar stock to make your own coupler nut, but the X2 trim nut is going to make a very clean finish.
 
Please do not run a 3d printed fuel pickup.

Welding the steering might be a quick fix but it reminds me of homer simpson adding elbow patches to his jacket. There is a better way.

The kawasaki X2 coupling nut from the trim system fits onto the steering cable. I'm sure you could get one or 2 of them cheap if you post in the want to buy section. You can use a long bolt or a piece of threaded rod after using the coupler nut. Use an extra nut on both ends of the coupler nut as a lock nut to prevent the coupler nut from getting loose.

If you cut a bolt or rod, put a tap/die on it before cutting, cut, grind the nub then remove the tap. This makes it much easier to prevent cross threading after cutting a bolt.

You could also tap a piece of aluminum bar stock to make your own coupler nut, but the X2 trim nut is going to make a very clean finish.
I'd definitely like to go the x2 piece route, I hadn't run across that yet. If this thing is as fun as I hope it will be I'll go thru it over the winter and sort out all of the shortcuts and get it set up for the long term. Luckily people like you are giving me little helpful hints along the way.

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Why not run a 3d printed pickup? If I can make it from petg and it will hold pressure, why wouldn't it work? The original is made from plastic.

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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Why not run a 3d printed pickup? If I can make it from petg and it will hold pressure, why wouldn't it work? The original is made from plastic.

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The original piece is 1-piece injected molded. 3d-printer parts can delaminate. I think you did a great job on your tail cone, and that is a great place to save money. It is just not worth the risk when messing with fuel. It might work, but look at the cost of some of the after market options, I think Rad dudes might have one, and compare that to the risk of failure. The costs of a quality pickup are low compared to the potential risks of a fuel failure. It wouldn't take a big leak to result in a dangerous amount of fuel vapor.
 
The original piece is 1-piece injected molded. 3d-printer parts can delaminate. I think you did a great job on your tail cone, and that is a great place to save money. It is just not worth the risk when messing with fuel. It might work, but look at the cost of some of the after market options, I think Rad dudes might have one, and compare that to the risk of failure. The costs of a quality pickup are low compared to the potential risks of a fuel failure. It wouldn't take a big leak to result in a dangerous amount of fuel vapor.

I agree.. thats a corner I personally wouldn't cut either.
 
My issue is the hood clears the tank by about 3/4 inch. I need something that turns and goes back down past 90 degrees. Can I jb weld a 1/4 copper tube and bend it in there?

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smokeysevin

one man with a couch
Site Supporter
Location
Houston
I would try and find a bulkhead fitting with a 90 degree end on it. I know you can get them as AN fittings.

Sean
 
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