SXR-FOREVER
Finally Flippin
- Location
- Lake Minnetonka, MN
Do your thing man! Everyone has got their own tastes. I still miss my stock (had a wetpipe) SXR.. when I'm rich I'll own one again to play with from time to time
SXR Freeride build....-5 Hull With All Kinds of Goodness (top and bottom deck split)
- Thread starter kx454
- Start date
- Location
- Sweet Valley, pa
It's been a while but my ski is finally back to being in one piece...using some 3m panel bond auto adhesive. More updates and pictures shortly.
- Location
- Sweet Valley, pa
Hopefully be on the water in the later part of June, what is actually holding me up is finding a trigger plate for my msd total loss....
- Location
- Harveys Lake PA
Thats a lot of clamps man! What did you figure out for the top deck where you had all that glass work to do? I thought you were going to foam, shape, glass, and remove foam? might be hard to do now with the decks joined?
Lookin good, that's more work than I'd want to do on a ski... I am kawi all the way for standups (just my preference from 23 years of riding Kawi's) as I ride mostly in rough water and have beat the livin snot out of my old 93 750sx ( sold it, and regretting it) Currently lookin for another one, don't know if I can afford a newer SXR right now... Looks like your gettin close man.. J.
- Location
- Sweet Valley, pa
Thanks for the good words guys. Actually making some Progress lately. Bought everything I need to complete my total loss, along with all of the parts to complete my carbs. Here are a few pics of the ski glued together and going to be completing some glass work in a few minutes.....you would not believe the time it takes to shape the foam haha
Quick trick for shaping foam. Take 2 1"x1" pine 16" long
bolt them together at one end. Make it 90 degrees.
At the far end of each piece I put 2 small screws, wrap ss safety wire from one side to the other around each screw and run each end back to the part where the 2 are joined. I use blue butt splices and connect
1 16 guage black to one side and a 16 guage red to the other side of the safety wire. Zip tie the
wire tight to the wood. With 3 feet or so past the bolt. Pull them part and tighten the bolt. As tight as u can make it.
i actually have a bolt in between that spreads them apart. So the safety wire is super tight
use a car battery charger set on 12 v low attached to each lead. And carve away. U can make paper thin slices
with a bit of practice. I even put a switch on mine. Amazing the shapes u can make wmfoam. I make molds all the time from parts i shaped w foam and plaster of paris
bolt them together at one end. Make it 90 degrees.
At the far end of each piece I put 2 small screws, wrap ss safety wire from one side to the other around each screw and run each end back to the part where the 2 are joined. I use blue butt splices and connect
1 16 guage black to one side and a 16 guage red to the other side of the safety wire. Zip tie the
wire tight to the wood. With 3 feet or so past the bolt. Pull them part and tighten the bolt. As tight as u can make it.
i actually have a bolt in between that spreads them apart. So the safety wire is super tight
use a car battery charger set on 12 v low attached to each lead. And carve away. U can make paper thin slices
with a bit of practice. I even put a switch on mine. Amazing the shapes u can make wmfoam. I make molds all the time from parts i shaped w foam and plaster of paris
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- Location
- Sweet Valley, pa
That sounds great, and fairly simple. I am going to have to make one of these for my next projectdo you need to use any type of special wire?
I use ss safety wire from lowes
Also stole the switch out of a barbie dream mobile before i tossed it and
zip tied it to the handle so i can turn it of and on without jumping back and forth
to the charger. took half hour, worth every minute.
also put a fuse on mine and wrapped the wood w duct tape so i didnt burn myself
crude but works!
Also stole the switch out of a barbie dream mobile before i tossed it and
zip tied it to the handle so i can turn it of and on without jumping back and forth
to the charger. took half hour, worth every minute.
also put a fuse on mine and wrapped the wood w duct tape so i didnt burn myself
crude but works!
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- Location
- Sweet Valley, pa
That stuff looks really good man, no worries on the hijacking...I am always open to ideas haha.
It te first later of glass in, due to the crazy humidy here in pa the resin is taking a bit to fully harden. Tomorrow night I will finish digging out the foam and lay a second layer of glass on the inside of the ski...if all goes well it should float again by Saturday.
It te first later of glass in, due to the crazy humidy here in pa the resin is taking a bit to fully harden. Tomorrow night I will finish digging out the foam and lay a second layer of glass on the inside of the ski...if all goes well it should float again by Saturday.
Not sure what resin u r using, make sure it's new. If its polyester, Older resins can. Do that.When that happens I usually run up to the store and grab a new batch. (Older resins turn dark, instead of golden tint).
mix a hot coat up (more hardener, but don't over do it). use a cc dispenser for
mek, to keep ratios correct. Simply brush your hot coat over the top layer.
keep it thin as resin by itself is weak. This will kickoff the resin underneath
and fill in your pinholes. If its just tacky, could be unwaxed resin which will remain that way
until re-coated w waxed or gel
Either way lookin good
Epoxy resin is a better choice for jobs like this, it's stronger and has better bonding characteristics. To u this means less layers to have the same strength as polyester.
your work will stay attached to machine under greater stress.
only down side is that it is not compatible w Matt fiberglass, the epoxy will not break down the glue that suspends the fibers. Anyway. If u r using epoxy, check the temp on the hardener, there are a few versions. Hope this helps
mix a hot coat up (more hardener, but don't over do it). use a cc dispenser for
mek, to keep ratios correct. Simply brush your hot coat over the top layer.
keep it thin as resin by itself is weak. This will kickoff the resin underneath
and fill in your pinholes. If its just tacky, could be unwaxed resin which will remain that way
until re-coated w waxed or gel
Either way lookin good
Epoxy resin is a better choice for jobs like this, it's stronger and has better bonding characteristics. To u this means less layers to have the same strength as polyester.
your work will stay attached to machine under greater stress.
only down side is that it is not compatible w Matt fiberglass, the epoxy will not break down the glue that suspends the fibers. Anyway. If u r using epoxy, check the temp on the hardener, there are a few versions. Hope this helps
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- Location
- Sweet Valley, pa
I used epoxy resin and mat that blowsion set me up with, I have a few friends there and they set me up with what I needed as I am pretty clueless on the composites department. I will grab a few more pics of the second layer I latex down last night.
My carbs are built and ready to go, setting up m total loss tonight so my engine will be ready to bolt in.
Make sure u mix the epoxy very well. Stir and stir some more
Still tacky now? A few days later? Does take more than 6 hours depending on the hardener they gave u. If you are layering on the inside, flip the machine over, the wetted material will form in better to you contours rather than pulling away under their own weight if you leave it rightside up. Precut your pieces and wet out on cardboard. Then apply your wetted pieces to the hull. Use a dry brush to tamp out as much air voids out as possible. This will ensure proper saturation of you material, which will be a total pain in the but if you try doing inside.
stay away from Matt fiberglass and epoxy, they are not compatible. Only weaves.
glad u used epoxy. Strong stuff.
when do u think u will hit the water
Still tacky now? A few days later? Does take more than 6 hours depending on the hardener they gave u. If you are layering on the inside, flip the machine over, the wetted material will form in better to you contours rather than pulling away under their own weight if you leave it rightside up. Precut your pieces and wet out on cardboard. Then apply your wetted pieces to the hull. Use a dry brush to tamp out as much air voids out as possible. This will ensure proper saturation of you material, which will be a total pain in the but if you try doing inside.
stay away from Matt fiberglass and epoxy, they are not compatible. Only weaves.
glad u used epoxy. Strong stuff.
when do u think u will hit the water
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- Location
- Harveys Lake PA
He has stitched uni-directional glass, only issue is its backed with mat. I have heard epoxy is not compatible with mat, but have used it before with no issues.
- Location
- Sweet Valley, pa
She is dried up and ready to go, really impressed me on how strong it is with just a single layer. I am hoping to be on the water by july 4th....still need a dry pipe and some small odds and end. Also have to choose a color, leaning towards a british racing green or maybe a nice burgandy. Tomorrow I am going to hopefully toss it in the water and see if I have any leaks around the bondline.