Freestylegeek's squarenose conversion

freestylegeek

freestylegeek

waiting...
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
I've got the 'big hole' filled in where the back of the ski used to be now.
I used wood blocks with wax paper to create a hard surface to lay the glass on the inside. After that set up, I flipped it over and glassed the outside. 4 layers on the inside and 5 layers on the outside. It's nice and strong. I'll be spreading some filler on the outside, and smoothing it before painting.

The bottom is finally complete again!:arms:
 

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Marshj

Marshj

DarkHorse
Location
Ann Arbor
This is definitely my favorite thread on the X right now! So excited to see this thing in action next spring:Banane01: Now I wish i wouldnt have aborted my conversion :frown:

Couple questions geek. Are you going to alter the rear corners of the hull at all? ie get rid of the sharp corner to make rolls easier (like you pointed out on lenzi's 05 boat).

And can you explain this Di-venycell foam to the rest of us? whats the benefits/hows it work?
Thanks buddiiee:woot: keep it up
 
superramjet

superramjet

Location
Hutchinson, Kansas
freestylegeek said:
I've thought about that Tom, but I'm concerned about spinning the stator section. I only use 3 of the 4 long bolts that hold the pump assembly together, so without a dowel pin, there is nothing other than those bolts preventing the stator from spinning.
Now I realize my motor isn't making a TON of power, but there has got to be a reason the factory designed the pump that way, right?
Click to expand...
i only recommened it because i've run them that way for several years in 2 of my skis without issues, you can alway drill and new dowel pin if it's a concern.

Nice looking work, the relocated steering cable is the best. It looks like xft makes some nice stuff. Get posting pics
 
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freestylegeek

freestylegeek

waiting...
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Marshj said:
This is definitely my favorite thread on the X right now! So excited to see this thing in action next spring:Banane01: Now I wish i wouldnt have aborted my conversion :frown:

Couple questions geek. Are you going to alter the rear corners of the hull at all? ie get rid of the sharp corner to make rolls easier (like you pointed out on lenzi's 05 boat).

And can you explain this Di-venycell foam to the rest of us? whats the benefits/hows it work?
Thanks buddiiee:woot: keep it up
Click to expand...

As far as the rear corners go, this is pretty much all I'm going to do to it.
Sergio said it helps for the backflip a little if you scallop the outside chines, but not as much as just shortening the hull. It also makes the ski a little less stable. Most importantly, it's more work - and I don't want to do more work. :cool2:

Divinycell foam is basically a closed cell foam that adds a ton of structure when sandwiched between layers of glass and resin. I am blown away by how light it is, and how rigid. It's kinda a simplified honeycomb structure - except the walls aren't totally perpendicular to the outer surface. The nice part about it is that you don't have to use pre-preg in order to sandwich it. It naturally resists epoxy due to the cells being closed.
 
freestylegeek

freestylegeek

waiting...
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
superramjet said:
i only recommened it because i've run them that way for several years in 2 of my skis without issues, you can alway drill and new dowel pin if it's a concern.

Nice looking work, the relocated steering cable is the best. It looks like xft makes some nice stuff. Get posting pics
Click to expand...

Thanks Tom!
That means a lot coming from you.

We'll see how things line up in the pump area, and if it seems beneficial, I'll probably spin the stator section.
 
freestylegeek

freestylegeek

waiting...
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
FL-cracker said:
Seems as if you have realy done your homework. This hull should perform beautifully. Cant wait to hear your conclusion on how well the ski works once complete. Are you gona weight the hull for us ;)
Click to expand...

Absolutely!

Here's how everything stands right now:
OEM bottom - 56 lbs
XFT top deck - 13 lbs
3 yds of 9 oz biaxial twill weave - 2.25 lbs (I won't use all of it)
1 yd of 7 oz unidirectional glass - 0.5 lbs (I won't use all of it)
1-1 ration of epoxy to glass wieght (actually, lets assume 2-1 for error) - 5.5lbs
3 cu-ft of 3lb foam - 9 lbs

Total assembled weight: 86.25 lbs.

We all KNOW it will not weigh this much because I will not be using all of the materials listed above.
Even if it did though, I'd be ok with it because the old hull was 120 lbs.
 
Y

yamaslut

Guest
freestylegeek said:
Absolutely!

Here's how everything stands right now:
OEM bottom - 56 lbs
XFT top deck - 13 lbs
3 yds of 9 oz biaxial twill weave - 2.25 lbs (I won't use all of it)
1 yd of 7 oz unidirectional glass - 0.5 lbs (I won't use all of it)
1-1 ration of epoxy to glass wieght (actually, lets assume 2-1 for error) - 5.5lbs
3 cu-ft of 3lb foam - 9 lbs

Total assembled weight: 86.25 lbs.

We all KNOW it will not weigh this much because I will not be using all of the materials listed above.
Even if it did though, I'd be ok with it because the old hull was 120 lbs.
Click to expand...


your geekness is next to none... I love how you break it down brotha...
 
F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
does the top deck weight include the weight of the hood? Small gas tank and battery will help as well. You will also save some weight running just a front exhaust.
 
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F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
Or exhaust tube, scuppers ect...........I think it will be just under 100lbs turfed.
 
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