Custom/Hybrid Happy burfday to me...

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deftons56

Brian
Location
lake goodwin
I hear ya, but the tube isn't always dead centered itself so if you are centering your driveshaft in the middle of an off centered tube it's not going to work out so well...
 

deftons56

Brian
Location
lake goodwin
You got promo pricing and a sick free paint job just like I did. I think a few bumps in the road were to be expected with the first few hulls and that's part of the reason for the discount. I'm happier than a pig in :):):):) with mine!
I agree with this ^

And once you get it out on the water it will all be worth it.
 
Also, the drive shaft wasn't centered left to right in the bulkhead hole. But when centered, the midshaft wouldn't align... So on my second try, I let the drive shaft sit where it wanted, and slid the midshaft on. BOOM, lined up. Every how-to I've read on this site says "center the drive shaft first". But, and Steve and I discussed this, if you use the midshaft as a guide to aligning the driveshaft, it works great, just don't torque the midshaft into place, it has to float freely in the correct spot.

Once again, just basic little tips for people who have never owned a AM hull on some things that will help.
I've never understood why centering in the hole was important AT ALL, since it doesn't follow the type of process one would normally use to mount a pump in anything else (I work in power plants). You first mount your pump since the location is generally fixed by say pipework (or in our case the tunnel). Then if there is a midshaft type situation, or a gear box or something you algin that to the pump, then you align your driver (electric motor, turbine or whatever).

Centering in the hole really serves no purpose other than looks, if it dosen't rub it doesn't matter (even if it does a bit I'd probably clearance it a bit). If you try and center in the holes you may end up misaligning your midshaft bearings since the mounting of the midshaft is pretty much fixed.

Honestly I feel like centering it in the hole is just some misinformed internet crap that's been repeated too many times.


As for your comments about the minor issues, I agree, its nice stuff to know ahead of time if only to make sure you have everything you need to deal with it. I had similar little issues with my ROK (like needing to shave the back of my intake grate since it overlapped with the ride plate, or not being told to order the extra long RRP pole tubes or having to chase resin out of all the inserts). Fortunately it was stuff I could deal with but I was expecting a bolt together ski.
 
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swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Lol camo joe, not sure why it bleeped half your post but I think what you said is the way I think it should be done too. Brian, I've never heard of your method.

Horne, you make a fair point. And I'm sure once I get it on the water ill be a lot less cranky.



*edit*
lol it's 12:30am (in Texas) and there's 8 people reading this thread. Go to bed people!
 
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deftons56

Brian
Location
lake goodwin
brian I thought you knew better than that. Gotta start with the pump in first in my opinion, then once you use a :):):):):):) gauge to make sure driveshaft is centered slide the midshaft on but not all the way against the firewall. Check with a :):):):):):) gauge to see if the clearance from the back of the midshaft housing is equidistant from the firewall. If its not even then shim accordingly. This step process is critical when installing pump shoe mainly and can be debated both ways on midshaft first or pump in first if hull has pump shoe already installed. The way I look at it is the bulkhead/firewall could be off a little bit and if everything is not perfectly straight then buying bearings will be your new hobby, ask me how I know :)
I'm not saying to install mid shaft first, just to put it on and get a basic idea of the area you want your driveshaft to be in the hull rather than spending time getting it dead center to find out it's in the wrong place for the mid shaft to bolt up. I've never had to shim a mid shaft, how do you get it to seal to the bulkhead? Silicone?
 
I've never understood why centering in the hole was important AT ALL, since it doesn't follow the type of process one would normally use to mount a pump in anything else (I work in power plants). You first mount your pump since the location is generally fixed by say pipework (or in our case the tunnel). Then if there is a midshaft type situation, or a gear box or something you algin that to the pump, then you align your driver (electric motor, turbine or whatever).

Centering in the hole really serves no purpose other than looks, if it dosen't rub it doesn't matter (even if it does a bit I'd probably clearance it a bit). If you try and center in the holes you may end up misaligning your midshaft bearings since the mounting of the midshaft is pretty much fixed.

Honestly I feel like centering it in the hole is just some misinformed internet crap that's been repeated too many times.


As for your comments about the minor issues, I agree, its nice stuff to know ahead of time if only to make sure you have everything you need to deal with it. I had similar little issues with my ROK (like needing to shave the back of my intake grate since it overlapped with the ride plate, or not being told to order the extra long RRP pole tubes or having to chase resin out of all the inserts). Fortunately it was stuff I could deal with but I was expecting a bolt together ski.

In my post I didn't just mean center it to just have it look centered, mine is more about when installing a pump shoe and at that point you need to make sure shaft is 'centered' so it doesn't rub. Also usuall a jig is used on the bulkhead to align the 3 bolt holes for the midshaft and its 'usually' when the jig is centered on the Shaft tube, So again centering the driveshaft helps.



just for what it's worth,
my rickter fr2 evo was my first a/m hull and it was not difficult by any means but just a smidgen different than building a superjet from the ground up. My pump also needed to be drilled out a touch to get front pump bolts to clear but with the solas vein section I have talked to more people than not that have to widen front holes. Ride plate fit but holes were not ligned up, had to drill three of them out larger to accommodate all bolts, opening the hood is like a game of operation, it's hard not to chip it around the hood hooks. All in all a bad ass ski, great fit and finish and would recommend to others if looking for that style hull

My chan that I just finished was a cake walk of an install. Other than some of the stock bolts for straps being a little short I had no problems/concerns with install. But every hull is different and with a/m anything, some fabricating or what I like to call customizing is usually necessary. The chan is a great built ski, no cutting corners( good thing but takes time) and it is fairly easy to build with minor customizing, again I would recommend it to others looking for that style/ride of a ski.
 
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I'm not saying to install mid shaft first, just to put it on and get a basic idea of the area you want your driveshaft to be in the hull rather than spending time getting it dead center to find out it's in the wrong place for the mid shaft to bolt up. I've never had to shim a mid shaft, how do you get it to seal to the bulkhead? Silicone?

Mine didn't need any shims on bulkhead luckily but one in same shipment needed one shim, I'd assume silicone but not sure exactly Brian, again though not very relevant once shoe or if shoe is installed. And like swap said even Steve will argue which way with me, but that's why I like him, cause he won't just tell you what you want to hear, I stil will debate this with him lol,but he agrees as well, it's a bigger deal process wise when installing pump shoe correctly .
 
In my post I didn't just mean center it to just have it look centered, mine is more about when installing a pump shoe and at that point you need to make sure shaft is 'centered' so it doesn't rub. Also usuall a jig is used on the bulkhead to align the 3 bolt holes for the midshaft and its 'usually' when the jig is centered on the Shaft tube, So again centering the driveshaft helps.
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Didn't mean you specificly, your process actually works.. Seen plenty of instruction on the internet to "Shim till you center it in the hole then slap the midshaft on" which really takes no account for bearing alignment.
 
Lol this is so out of line at this point IMO.... but most swap/backie Chan threads are Lol... Yeah aligning pump.... that hole in the bulkhead is good reference but that Hull could be off a tiny bit so I always make pump perfect to when I slide mid shaft on I can start all three bolt without any side to side pressure to get to line up.... that Hole in bulk head (unless is dead nuts perfect) is very relevant to perfect alinlgnment IMO

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And the reason swaps Hull needs a 1/4 shims is I set up for gp motor mount and he put stock and with a little pamphlet he would have known that!!!

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Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
You got promo pricing and a sick free paint job just like I did. I think a few bumps in the road were to be expected with the first few hulls and that's part of the reason for the discount. I'm happier than a pig in :):):):) with mine!

I get what you're saying, but one needs to be really really careful with that. Because once you've accepted that line of thinking, it's pretty easy to justify all sorts of delays for some 'deal' you made for a free paint job or whatnot. By the way, this is not directed at Trendsetterz, but rather aimed at this practice in general. The 'deal', imho, gives the customer introductory pricing and maybe an extra or two while the vendor gets customers to represent his starting brand so that eventually, he can charge more because people know what the hulls are about. Too often, the 'deal' then gets twisted into "well I am giving you a special deal, you should be okay with these delays!".
This can go the other way, too, of course. The customer can get bent out of shape over taking the 'deal' to be something that it originally was not.
If there is a 'deal' it should be put into writing to avoid these issues.
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
And I generally hate 'hook-ups' or 'deals' for that exact reason. I'd rather pay so everyone understands what to expect and what's expected.

But Steve did go above and beyond on a lot of aspects on my ski.
 
Ive built REV, ROK ,BOB ,XFT, CUSTOM BUILT 300sx. Never really had any major issues with any of them. Actually xft was the worst b/c i used standard superjet thread pitch hardware and if i remeber xft had a few different pitches on it, some oem yamaha some not. I also have street bikes dirt bikes trikes all kinds of motorized :):):):)tttt. IMHO a jet ski (dont care sit down standup any make model whatever) has the easiest mechanics and the best thing to start on if your getting into tinkering a bit. i usually keep my mouth shutt on this site, but when i get my hull ill try to post a lot of things on this hull just for Steves sake. He hasnt been in the game long but so far he is doing a lot for us. Cheapest hull out there and i can almost guarantee this will be the best riding hull i have rode or owned. Ive ordered hulls got the wrong color. Got ones that werent the weight or layup i was told i was getting. Aftermarket hulls are a hard business. Seems if you have the skills and the perfection you lack a little business on the side. Or a great business man but your product is way over priced or not that popular of a fuctional design. I should be getting my Chan in a few weeks. Hopefully i can make it to the big get togethers in MI this year to show off Steves work. Hope it works out at Trendsetterz and they keep knocking these things out b/c Steve def set the bar for the NEWBS/WORKING CLASS guys that cant drop big cash on these HULLS. IF MONEY WAS NO OBJECT FOR ME I WOULD STILL HAVE GOT A CHAN. FAN_MAN
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
He shouldn't have offered the hulls if they were not perfect. Who cares if they were discounted.


Why not? As long as the imperfections are properly disclosed, proportionally discounted, and agreed upon by the customer.
 
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