Help me tune my B pipe

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I did that before I installed it.

should I do it again?

let me ask yall this.

there WAS some aluminum casting flash on the holes, they flowed water, but they werent clean pretty spray holes.

after looking at the rest of the headpipe and manifold, it seems typical of factory pipes casting procedure.

should I have de-flashed those holes?
do they generally look like that?



In that case, I'd pull the headpipe, pull all 3 set screws out, make sure the holes are clean and not built up with carbon, then test it with a garden hose to make sure they flow and are adjusting properly.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
IM still open to suggestions.

ive tried lots of other suggestions from folks here already.

its like asking for advice on what flavor icecream I will like the best.
and everyone knows for SURE which one it will be.

:bigok:

Well thats one way of doing it....I guess.......

Mark44
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
well, since they are going for $600 on Eghey.

Ill trade the B pipe for 2 sizzlers, IF I cant get it figured out.

its almost like a puzzle that drives you nuts at this point, so im somewhere between tired of messing with it, but aggravated enough to see it to fruition.
 
I have my low screw closed and mid screw closed and top screw about 1 turn open....I hope that is right for freestyle ?

With dual cooling both lines leading into exhaust manifold
-I have one line of head going into bottom end of headpipe
-One line from top of headpipe going to Chamber with a T and a flowcontrolvalve ( stock washer ) after the T on the chamber side...
-other head is just going overboard

Should I change the water routing ?
Should I increase the washers in Flow control valve


???
 

Shonuff

I've got the glow
Site Supporter
Location
Memphis
Honestly, this cannot be better than the sizzler. Sell that POS and get another pipe for Parker.
 

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
I have a Type 11, most pipes only go up to 10, but mine goes up to 11.

SpinalTap.jpg
 

SUPERJET-113

GASKETS FOR CHAMP BRAP!
Site Supporter
thinking I must have some other issue going on.

I think this is the answer. Its not the pipe its something else.. Wished I had some suggestions, but its not the pipe or the settings. The pipe works no matter what. You engine should still run good, albeit if you have a screw 2-3 turns open it might load up a bit off idle.
As long as one of them is open the pipe will keep cool. Heck close them all and go for a 30 second blip test ride and if it still runs shatty then you know its not the water injection! Its not going to hurt anything for that short of time.

In the winter around here when its 60-70 and the water is prolly 40 or so, I can run them all closed except i crack the top one about 1/8 turn, thats all. As it gets hot out like now(110-115 degrees), I run middle/bottom closed and top open 3/4-1 turn.
It would be silly to get rid of the B pipe and put a sizzler on there IMO.
 
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Superjet3

Waterlogged
Location
Jersey Shore
I am currently running the middle screw out 3/4 turn, top closed, bottom closed and a 2.5 seat in the hose going to my stinger and my boat runs great. Give that a whirl.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I did that.

it ran great, but it melted some of the hoses, and was so hot some of the paint peeled off of the pipe.

i ran it until I smelled smoke...

maybe 2-3 minutes.

Ill figure it out, eventually.

thanks for all the advice.



Heck close them all and go for a 30 second blip test ride and if it still runs shatty then you know its not the water injection! Its not going to hurt anything for that short of time.

In the winter around here when its 60-70 and the water is prolly 40 or so, I can run them all closed except i crack the top one about 1/8 turn, thats all. As it gets hot out like now(110-115 degrees), I run middle/bottom closed and top open 3/4-1 turn.
It would be silly to get rid of the B pipe and put a sizzler on there IMO.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Is their any published info on which each screw does?
i'v have just let mine be since i bought it. It runs pretty warm, but does not sizzle water. no idea what my turns are at,, kinda scared to touch them.
 

Dustin Mustangs

uʍop ǝpıs dn
Location
Holland, MI
From the FP manual:

Factory Pipe
Performance Exhaust 101


The purpose of an Aexpansion chamber@ is to return to the exhaust port a negative sound wave then a positive sound wave at precisely the right time. If the pressure wave returns too late, you lose some of the fresh fuel charge in the combustion chamber and performance. If the wave returns too soon, it pushes hot exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber contaminating the fresh charge and creating hot spots on the piston. The challenge to the pipe designer is to arrive at the proper exhaust tuning that will return the sonic waves at the correct time. This challenge is made all the harder by many impeller/nozzle combinations, engine configurations, riding conditions and rider preferences.

Traditionally, if you wanted low RPM torque and high RPM horsepower, it required several pipes. A few of our competitors cast rings into their pipes to achieve pipe tuning by Acut and try.@ In 1992 Factory Pipe introduced the first truly tunable pipe using our variable water injection system. This system allows you to modify where and how much water injects into the exhaust by the turn of a set screw. Where our competition had you change the length of the pipe, the Factory Pipe allows you to vary the exhaust gas temperature which in turn changes the sonic wave speed within the pipe. Changing the sonic wave speed within the pipe has the same tuning affect as changing the length of the pipe.



Factory Pipe
Tuning Your Exhaust System


Most Factory Pipe systems have our exclusive Atunable@ headpipe which allows you to custom tune the pipe to your riding style. The following page gives a general overview of how this system works and how each adjustment will affect the performance of your watercraft. Double check all hoses, bolts and clamps from your installation. For the first Aon-water@ test of your new Factory Pipe we recommend closing the top and middle adjustment screws and opening the bottom screw 3/4 turn out from closed. This setting will be more water than is required but will provide a good starting point to test the pipe.

Ride the watercraft for several minutes while varying the throttle position. Open the engine cover as quick as possible after the ride and check the pipe temperature by splashing water on the chamber body directly after the headpipe coupler. The water should lightly sizzle for the first few inches on the chamber body.

If the water does not sizzle, close the bottom adjustment screw 1/8 turn and retest. If the water sizzles rapidly, open the bottom screw 1/4 turn and retest.

This set up will provide the best top end performance of your watercraft. With the pipe adjusted as stated above, open the top screw 1/4 turn. This will cool the exhaust in the headpipe and provide better bottom end performance at the expense of some top-end. This would be an ideal setting for running slalom or a tight buoy course.

If you want a change that is somewhere in the middle of the two settings, close the top screw and open the middle screw 1/4 turn or add another 1/8 turn to the bottom screw.

Some engines may react differently from the above. For example, while testing the 650 Super Jet we found that we gained top end performance by running the top screw open and the others closed. You may use any combination of the three screws to achieve the desired performance. However, at least one screw must remain open at all times to prevent damage to the pipe.
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
I did that.

it ran great, but it melted some of the hoses, and was so hot some of the paint peeled off of the pipe.

i ran it until I smelled smoke...

maybe 2-3 minutes.

Ill figure it out, eventually.

thanks for all the advice.

You must have a water supply problem, either the supply is weak to engine or weak feeding the headpipe or the headpipe holes are clogged up.
Make sure you have a good headgasket seal too.
Post how you have the water lines set-up.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
here is a pic.

I dont think its a weak supply, but did you see several posts above about the casting flash? maybe I need to pull the head pipe and clean it up a bit...

i can dry it out enough to have some DECENT bottom end, but its not pulling the peak RPMS IM used to.







You must have a water supply problem, either the supply is weak to engine or weak feeding the headpipe or the headpipe holes are clogged up.
Make sure you have a good headgasket seal too.
Post how you have the water lines set-up.
 

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