Help me tune my B pipe
- Thread starter Mouthfulloflake
- Start date
ketsair
ISJWTA Member #1
- Location
- thomas hill reservior missouri
i think his taint is wore out... he complains about it an awefull lot...
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
It is good to know my friends are always around to help....
{ mental note, get some new friends...}
{ mental note, get some new friends...}
Not at your age.
SUPERTUNE
Race Gas Rules
- Location
- Clearwater Fl.
Ski must be running very good FIRST, before trying to add another performance modification like a ecwi system!!!
If your engine setup won't make power and rpm's wide open then a water injection system will not help at all as it turns off at rpms above 5000-6000 rpms!
P.S. Why do you still have the stock plug caps on your coil wires? Call around and get yourself a set of new MSD plug boots and new terminals, use solid tip sparkplugs also.
Take the 2 water lines off the top of your head and t them back together and hook up to a water hose, turn on full blast and use a flashlight and look up into pump from the nozzle and make sure you have good water flow into the pump, this will give you a good visual if you have a supply problem...
If your engine setup won't make power and rpm's wide open then a water injection system will not help at all as it turns off at rpms above 5000-6000 rpms!
P.S. Why do you still have the stock plug caps on your coil wires? Call around and get yourself a set of new MSD plug boots and new terminals, use solid tip sparkplugs also.
Take the 2 water lines off the top of your head and t them back together and hook up to a water hose, turn on full blast and use a flashlight and look up into pump from the nozzle and make sure you have good water flow into the pump, this will give you a good visual if you have a supply problem...
SUPERTUNE
Race Gas Rules
- Location
- Clearwater Fl.
Also try hooking up your reserve fuel line supply from the tank and go straight to the carb and eliminate any petcock or fuel supply problems.
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
I will blow back thru the cooling hose to make sure its clear.
up until a week ago I had the fuel routed as you said.
I removed the stock fuel lines and petcock valve, and pickps and blew all thru them.
there was crud in the valve all last year and the reserve circuit would not pull.
both lines are clear now, and those filters have less than a tank of fuel each thru them. petcock is clear, lines are new ( and clear) and pickups are clear)
those are NOT stock plug caps.
the plug BOOT is stock, but the actual electrical connection, is an automotive type that is crimped and soldered to the cut back stock wires.
old pipe and stock head, boat would pull 7200 RPMs.
new pipe and new head, boat wont do that.
compression has increased, not sure how much, plugs dont look like its leaking water.
keep the ideas coming, and thanks for stepping in to help SuperTune.
up until a week ago I had the fuel routed as you said.
I removed the stock fuel lines and petcock valve, and pickps and blew all thru them.
there was crud in the valve all last year and the reserve circuit would not pull.
both lines are clear now, and those filters have less than a tank of fuel each thru them. petcock is clear, lines are new ( and clear) and pickups are clear)
those are NOT stock plug caps.
the plug BOOT is stock, but the actual electrical connection, is an automotive type that is crimped and soldered to the cut back stock wires.
old pipe and stock head, boat would pull 7200 RPMs.
new pipe and new head, boat wont do that.
compression has increased, not sure how much, plugs dont look like its leaking water.
keep the ideas coming, and thanks for stepping in to help SuperTune.
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
Oh wait, if I push water back thru the head, will it not go thru the head pipe and into the cylinder?
Dustin Mustangs
uʍop ǝpıs dn
- Location
- Holland, MI
Water can't get to the head pipe from the head w/o an external line. It would go down through the cylinders, out the manifold, and back to the pump.
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
oh ok, I gotcha now... its early, my brain is still in sleepy land.
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
i am out here messing with this.
ive got one line from the head to the headpipe, and the other line from the head goes straight to a bypass.
is it possible that the bypass is the path of least resistance, and there isnt enough volume or pressure to really mist into the headpipe?
would it be worth the experiment to run a restricter in the bypass off of the head to force MORE water into the headpipe and injection screws?
ive got one line from the head to the headpipe, and the other line from the head goes straight to a bypass.
is it possible that the bypass is the path of least resistance, and there isnt enough volume or pressure to really mist into the headpipe?
would it be worth the experiment to run a restricter in the bypass off of the head to force MORE water into the headpipe and injection screws?
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
yes, that is the path of least resistance.
try putt a 4mm restrictor in it.
try putt a 4mm restrictor in it.
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
done.
I will report back later.
I will report back later.
accbr
addicted
- Location
- Lexington, KY
It looks like you're running a single cooling line unless I missed it. When I had a 61x with a b-pipe I didn't have a bypass coming off the head. Just one from the head to the bottom of the head pipe. Then top of head pipe to a tee with one side of the tee overboard, and the other to a jetworks valve before the stinger. I set the valve to open at around 3500 rpm like Art told me. It ran great, and I could tell a difference when I switched from the Sizzler. I only had the top screw opened about a 1/4 turn. I did have to raise my popoff from a 95g spring to a 115g. Otherwise, it would load up while idling around, and I didn't have any bottom end response. The jets were 142.5M and 120L I think.
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
good to know ACCBR,
thanks!
I changed my main jet to a 140 ( from a 145)
add a restricter in line with the bypass from the head.
added a restricter inline with the stinger, and put eh flow control valve immediatly off of the head pipe.
it is BETTER than it was.
I might try the 115 spring ( got a 95 now)
im also bottom screw about 1/4 turn others closed currently.
tried the top open a bit, and it seemed to really dull it down.
thanks!
thanks!
I changed my main jet to a 140 ( from a 145)
add a restricter in line with the bypass from the head.
added a restricter inline with the stinger, and put eh flow control valve immediatly off of the head pipe.
it is BETTER than it was.
I might try the 115 spring ( got a 95 now)
im also bottom screw about 1/4 turn others closed currently.
tried the top open a bit, and it seemed to really dull it down.
thanks!
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
top screw killed the bottom end on my set up.
today:
bottom screw barely open( 1/4-1/8 turn) working pretty good
manifold showing 155 degrees, chamber showing about 140.
seems wet to me, but its hot enough to melt some hoses still ( bilge hose was touching it and got a scar)
loud as HECK compared to the coffman sizzler, sounds like a chainsaw....
honestly though, not any stronger.. yet.
im sure the potential is there, its just drying it to the brink.......
today:
bottom screw barely open( 1/4-1/8 turn) working pretty good
manifold showing 155 degrees, chamber showing about 140.
seems wet to me, but its hot enough to melt some hoses still ( bilge hose was touching it and got a scar)
loud as HECK compared to the coffman sizzler, sounds like a chainsaw....
honestly though, not any stronger.. yet.
im sure the potential is there, its just drying it to the brink.......
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
bottom end is about 80-90% of what it was ( I think I need the 115 gram spring...maybe)... but it doesnt seem to be loading up really?
top end is about 80%, its still not getting the peak RPMs the sizzler was
its getting better with every adjustment at this point, I just didnt realize that older pipe was so forgiving I guess.
if I somehow get UN-lazy today Ill swap pumps and impellers and try something different and see how that effects it overall.
I think it needs more compression too, I need some 35cc domes..
What percentage of you old "sizzler power" would you say your running?
100% low?
75%High?
Where are you currently?[/QUOTE]
top end is about 80%, its still not getting the peak RPMs the sizzler was
its getting better with every adjustment at this point, I just didnt realize that older pipe was so forgiving I guess.
if I somehow get UN-lazy today Ill swap pumps and impellers and try something different and see how that effects it overall.
I think it needs more compression too, I need some 35cc domes..
What percentage of you old "sizzler power" would you say your running?
100% low?
75%High?
Where are you currently?[/QUOTE]
- Location
- So. IL
Get rid of that pipe and get you a Speedwerx pipe. There are no adjustments and it will turn 7800 if the ski has the power. All you have to do it bolt it in and hang on. There will be more power there than any pipe you can run.
And while you are looking for pipes. Find me a Speedwerx freestyle version. I think you would want a race version because you like the RPM's.
But about your pipe. IF 140 degrees chamber temps are melting hoses then you have a problem with your temp gun. 140 is really cold. when you pop the hood after WOT running the water should dance off of the pipe. Not stick and boil. Water dancing temps are around 300+ IF you are just braping around then the water should stick to the pipe and boil. AND it will be LOUD remember my ski....LOL
And while you are looking for pipes. Find me a Speedwerx freestyle version. I think you would want a race version because you like the RPM's.
But about your pipe. IF 140 degrees chamber temps are melting hoses then you have a problem with your temp gun. 140 is really cold. when you pop the hood after WOT running the water should dance off of the pipe. Not stick and boil. Water dancing temps are around 300+ IF you are just braping around then the water should stick to the pipe and boil. AND it will be LOUD remember my ski....LOL