Home Porting

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I see you have some of that special magic flexible hose like I have on mine.
I cant beleive you did it like that, dont you know all the real men drill and tap their handle bars for the water flow? so it can pressure soak the inside of the on/off switch?

:biggrin:

Idok said:
exactly, use a single tube like I have in the pic above and just aim it so the water shoots whereever you want.....if anything, the water out of my cyl head is TOO COOL
 
F

Freestyleriverrat

Guest
wildman326 said:
This year I ran hand warmers and foot warmers. The hand warmers came off the head and the foot warmers came off of the pipe. WOW:bigeyes: .

You guys are some troopers :headbang:
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Alright....some case porting info.
Please note that I have [limited] experience with 62T cases only. In fact, I am not sure how you would go about porting 61X cases - though I think Keith Head does it. I believe Slymo ran one of his 61X ported cases.

Tools and materials:
  • Rough grit sandpaper
  • Metal epoxy (Devcon, and the like)
  • Grinder, slim profile (Dremel for me)

The important thing first: You'll be porting only the top case half - the 62T part . The bottom part is the 6M6 case half, the same on all 650s, 701s, 760s.

First, you need to clean out all the voids on visible from the top. Clean them with paint thinner, or something - you want the gunk, grease, and chunks out.
Take sandpaper to the inside of the voids where you can, to rough it up.
Once those voids are clean and dry, you need to fill them up with metal epoxy. I used the two parts stuff that comes in sticks from Randy @ Watcon. Great guy, full of information, too.
Stuff it in there good, fill up those voids. Your goal is to fill them up to the top.

The case porting will grind right through some of the case walls. The epoxy keeps everything together - essentially, you're making everything much beefier, so that you can take material away during porting.
Look at the flywheel area - there are a few deep spots in there that need epoxy. Make sure the area is clean, grease-free and dry, then put epoxy on.
Let everything cure, and make sure the top of the case (base gasket mating surface) is smooth and even. Take some sandpaper to it to straighten it out if needed.

Now on to the porting: Basically, you need to grind channels into each top corner of each intake port, for a total of four tunnels. This channels fuel/air mixture right into the transfer ports. So, grind a tunnel from the intake to the transfers - it's not that hard, just look at the pictures for guidance.
Make sure the tunnels are evenly sized.

Next, take some sandpaper and rough up every surface inside the top case that will have fuel/air mix going through it. All of the intake port, the bottom bowls of the transfer ports, etc...(it's a good idea to do this to the transfer tunnels on the cylinder as well)
The rough surface will promote better flow characteristics than the stock smooth surface.

Last thing: Finger filling. Looking at the intake ports of the 62T case, you'll see the infamous fingers. You have two options: Leave them alone, or fill them with epoxy.
If you fill with epoxy, do it like before - sand, clean, degrease, dry, then put epoxy on. The goal is to make the divets in the fingers disappear and to create a smooth top surface at finger top height.
Essentially, this reduces the volume available to air in the intake tract. This leads to higher air velocities through the intake tract. The advantage is better throttle response, as any change in throttle will get to the engine quicker (through higher air speed).
This comes at a significant trade-off. Less volume for intake air/fuel leads to weaker bottom end power. Freestyle case porting often leaves the fingers unported, for this very reason.
That's all I've got.

The first two pics are my cases, the third is Mile's Able stroker from last year, and the last shows what epoxied fingers should look like.
 

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Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Someone asked me about the rest of my setup, and jetting.

Initially, last summer I ran a Speedwerx Racing dry pipe, VForce 2 reeds, MSD Total Loss (Dual Channel), 190PSI, and a Solas Concord cutback 13/16, and dual 38mm carbs.
It ripped then - it really did. It seems the jetting was 95 gr springs, 75 or 77.5 pilots, and 145 mains.

Later, I switched to a B-Mod. Way better throttle response, but less power throughout.
I have since added dual 44mm carbs (OEM) on a Riva manifold (initially an R&D manifold).
I don't think I have the jetting nailed down yet with that - I only rode a couple of hours with those carbs before winter (and a job in Texas) hit full force.
I even ran a 144mm 12 Vane magnum pump for a weekend, and another weekend I ran 215 psi on Avgas.
Neither one was worth the money on my engine, for various reasons.
I am now back on a stock pump with WW cone and Concord 13/16.
I am excited to get things back together for the season - I have a lot more prep to do before I can paint.
At least I have finally decided on paint - black and copper. I think I'll call it Copperhead. Or how about Copperjet?
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
matt do you know what the port width you ended up in mm is
I just cant see how to get to 58 as the cylinder is really thin on the exhaust port area
 

cambo au

TRYING TO LEARN
Location
AUSTRALIA
i am running case stuffers on my 62t cases and it looks like it would give the same as to fill in the fingers are you saying that if i pull them out i will get more low end or should i leave them in?
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
I don't know what case stuffers are. If they are easy to pull out, just take the intake manifold off, take them out, and ride without them. That ought to tell you.
 

cambo au

TRYING TO LEARN
Location
AUSTRALIA
i will try and take a photo of them my motor is apart at the moment r&d sell them.
are you saying that by filling the fingers in it creates better bottom end or the other way around?
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
I think what you got are reed stuffers.
For best bottom end, I would leave the fingers alone - or so I've been told. It's been explained to me, and it made sense.


WAX: I noticed I never gave a public answer on port width. I believe my exhausts are 56mm straight across.
 
Last edited:

Whale

X
Location
New Zealand
what angle do i grind the port window? Is it from the scribed line to the outer edge of the cylinder sleeve? im using a dremal flexy shaft with sanding drums
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Oh, gotcha. The top case half has voids - the mating surface to the cylinder. I filled all those with epoxy.
It's essential for case porting, because the material removal on the intake tract will leave holes in the case metal. Filling the voids plugs those holes.
Of course, the voids need to be meticulously cleaned and be dry. Then fill with epoxy and let it fully cure. Then cut away.
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
gotcha, for some dumb reason I thought water flowed in there. I look in the garage an saw that it doesn't. duh. good to know! I need to port some x cases soon.
 
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