I am not Happy-SOB

A

Aka Kane

X-H2
At first light,

I am going to do all those listed things, this is what I needed. I need an alimeter or some ******** like that to test the battery right?
 
waterfreak

waterfreak

I had a vision!
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
s florida
Check you ground cable too!!. Pull on it and see if it becomes hot when pressing the start button
The buzzing sound heard when trying to start the ski is sometimes a bad battery connection (or corrosion on the battery post)

If all you hear is a clicking noise from the electrical box, then it could be your starter. Do what Superjett mentioned and jump the two post on the relay. If nothing happens, your starter could be a gonner!
 
Seeg

Seeg

X
Location
Minnesota
Voltmeter, set to DC voltage. If your going to buy one, get one that has the lest amount of settings, easier to use, with auto-ranging.
A basic Fluke multimeter is best. Sears sells one.
If the battery is showing lower than 12 volts, try charging it. If it takes a charge, and you get the ski started, measure the voltage while running. It should be close to or more than 13 volts while running, if not, then your stator is probably bad, or just crappy coroded wiring.
Troubleshooting is always best, most dealer mechanics will just throw parts at it until the problem is fixed, at your expense.
I have worked in the 12 volt business for 17 years now, you would be surprised on how your typical mechanic has no idea how to use their $300+ Snap-on multimeter.
 
A

Aka Kane

X-H2
Man this has got me so pissed off. I just dropped 1500 on this ski less then a week ago and I already have a stupid problem. I will do everything I can to fix it. Where is the ground cable at? I was an idiot, and tried turning it over without the Plug caps on the plugs. Now it isnt even clicking, I get nothing....did I fry the CDI now? This is why I am tempted to just buy all the parts, put them on and see what works.
 
S

sflsurfrider

the starter not clicking has nothing to do with whether or not your cdi is bad.

you either have a weak connection somewhere or a dead battery.
 
S

sflsurfrider

Waste Land said:
Kane...if its making a pop/click.....99.99% is the solonoid....they are a 10 minute fix at like $20 for a new one.
Click to expand...

if its buzzing, it means theres not enough voltage going to the electomagnetic coil in the starter relay to put the armature down.

low voltage could be from either a low battery or a faulty connection.

its more like a 0.01% chance its a bad solenoid in my opinion.
 
A

Aka Kane

X-H2
Ok thanks alot guys,

I would really be lost without everyones help.

Right now, the battery is charging on the 2 volt rate....

Tommarrow, I am going to figure out what this is. Where is the best place to order the solinoid. Well at first on the lake it was buzzing, then I got home it was clicking, not I have nothing really.
 
Waste Land

Waste Land

Non Multa Sed Multum
Location
Florence, AL
sflsurfrider said:
if its buzzing, it means theres not enough voltage going to the electomagnetic coil in the starter relay to put the armature down.

low voltage could be from either a low battery or a faulty connection.

its more like a 0.01% chance its a bad solenoid in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Aka Kane said:
Ok,

and now its clicking or popping whenever I press the start button
Click to expand...

I was refeering tot he pop/click he pointed out here
 
gakb

gakb

gakb
Location
Ruston, LA
Kane .... Why didn't you just call me today???

I will call you tomorrow. Don't panic it is probably your flux capacitor. Your battery has to be putting out 1.21 jiga watts to even turn your engine over!
Did you get a Mr. Fusion owners manual when you bought your FIX IT 1?
I will be more than happy to drop by in the morning.

Call me at home.
If only you would have bought a Kawasaki you would not be having these probs.

Can you charge your battery overnight for me?
 
wildman326

wildman326

Who else?
Location
Kansas
$1500 is a lot to me, but really it's not enough to not expect a ski with NO issues.

$5000 and up skis have little issues like this all the time - perhaps it's the burden of trying to run a motor in such close proximity with water - You know BOAT stands for Bust Out Another Thousand . . .
 
Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I have this identical problem occasionally.

and sometimes its the start SWITCH, on the handle bar.

not sure on a FX1 but on a super jet, its the brown and red wires and connector on the rear right of the engine compartment ( near carb)

you can jumper the switch there too to remove that from your list of possible faults.

$10 meter from walmart is fine.
it needs to be digital though.

12.7 - 12.8 volts is a fully charged battery

I have never seen a ski read an increased voltage while running.
so if you look for 14 volts while running, and dont see it.
dont think anything is wrong.
 
S

sflsurfrider

Mouthfulloflake said:
I have this identical problem occasionally.

and sometimes its the start SWITCH, on the handle bar.

not sure on a FX1 but on a super jet, its the brown and red wires and connector on the rear right of the engine compartment ( near carb)

you can jumper the switch there too to remove that from your list of possible faults.

$10 meter from walmart is fine.
it needs to be digital though.

12.7 - 12.8 volts is a fully charged battery

I have never seen a ski read an increased voltage while running.
so if you look for 14 volts while running, and dont see it.
dont think anything is wrong.
Click to expand...

usually digital meters will go ape shyt when you try to read the voltage on the battery of a running engine due to the untrue dc current coming out of the rectifier. its a 'pulsating' dc current and a digital meter doesnt know what to make of it so itll constanly read a bunch of different numbers while the engine is on. the rf interfereance of the ignition doesnt help out much either being in such close proximity to the meter.

an analog meter is the way to go while testing to see if the ski is charging. its much more forgiving toward the RF interferance of the ignition and the crudeness of the the dc output of the rectifier.
 
Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I have seen the meter go crazy when close to the ignition.

I will check with an analog meter to see if thats why I havent seen an increase.

It was steady while checking the last few skis that I checked when I formed the conclusion that you dont read 13+ volts on a running ski.
Give me a little credit
if the meter was jumping around, I would have disregarded the reading.




sflsurfrider said:
usually digital meters will go ape shyt when you try to read the voltage on the battery of a running engine due to the untrue dc current coming out of the rectifier. its a 'pulsating' dc current and a digital meter doesnt know what to make of it so itll constanly read a bunch of different numbers while the engine is on. the rf interfereance of the ignition doesnt help out much either being in such close proximity to the meter.

an analog meter is the way to go while testing to see if the ski is charging. its much more forgiving toward the RF interferance of the ignition and the crudeness of the the dc output of the rectifier.
Click to expand...
 
Idok

Idok

F1pro
Location
Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city
if its buzzing you might jst have a bad connection at the battery......I'd clean the batt terminals (after you know the batt is good)...then try..

then do what jett says.....


but #1 SLOW DOWN-It sounds liek you have yourself all worked up in a frenzy...

I bought a ski last year for 5k, it broke down within 2 hours of buying it........look at it this way, you just get to look under her skirt a little earlier than usual ;)
 
S

sflsurfrider

Mouthfulloflake said:
I have seen the meter go crazy when close to the ignition.

I will check with an analog meter to see if thats why I havent seen an increase.

It was steady while checking the last few skis that I checked when I formed the conclusion that you dont read 13+ volts on a running ski.
Give me a little credit
if the meter was jumping around, I would have disregarded the reading.
Click to expand...

not discrediting. just posting what i have found in the past. i still have an analog meter and this is the only thing it ever gets used for. everything else in life gets the digital UEI multi.
 
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