If you could go back in time and assist yourself buy your first ski, what advice would you give?

[HarryConnolly]

Buy a used am Hull. Used stroker engine. Don't do footholds or cut a superjet. Don't de foam. Don't reinforce. Just ride. Punch Steinmetz in the face at pismo when you first meet him and see his ski get pissed on

Basically. What was said above. Don't buy into the bs from dumper jumpers who can't flip, roll, and have consistently running skis with loads of tray time.

Any motor brands to stay away from? I know given my size I want 900cc+

 

[800750]

Looking to buy new or used? Lots of good options out there for both. Tpe PHP dasa xs are all good. If I was in a situation for a new motor/hull I'd Get my hull pump and electric set up dialed in and run a cheap 701 to get the hang of it, then have lpw aka jr build a php1015 and live happily ever after

 

[kevbo]

Any motor brands to stay away from? I know given my size I want 900cc+

Its easy to take the one dimensional view of engine size equaling a certain level of performance. It does for a given design but you need to know exactly what port height and pipe combination you want before money is thrown around. A 900 with a dry pipe can run as well as an 1100 with a B pipe.

 

[Vumad]

Buy a Superjet. Stick to bolts ons. Ride as much as possible.

 

[Roseand]

Looking to buy new or used? Lots of good options out there for both. Tpe PHP dasa xs are all good. If I was in a situation for a new motor/hull I'd Get my hull pump and electric set up dialed in and run a cheap 701 to get the hang of it, then have lpw aka jr build a php1015 and live happily ever after

^^^^ good advice
Hold out for a PHP or TPE
The tpe 1105 is insane. Seen some 300lb massive dude idle flip his....

 

[Proformance1]

My skis all were at or above my riding levels at the time. Started with SJ, but modded it asap as way underpowered and pumped. Just pace yourself and come up with a budget each year. Plan on doubling that number lol

 

[bird]

My skis all were at or above my riding levels at the time. Started with SJ, but modded it asap as way underpowered and pumped. Just pace yourself and come up with a budget each year. Plan on doubling that number lol

No "New" rider can out ride a stock 700cc+ stand up. There is too much to learn at first.

It's like watching a BMX guy ride Moto Cross. You don't need horsepower to be good, just flow.

 

[MarkWalker]

Don't buy a project ski. Buy a ski that is R-T-R. And oh yeah, hey dumbass, don't put a ring on that 1st girls' finger....

 

[Sparkplug]

Weekly buzzed trolling

Learning to ride a superjet. Is a good place to start. If that's all you can afford. That's all I could in the beginning. Subs. Stabs, and attempting rolls. Is fun

Learning on a short, purpose designed, am hull, you will progress 10x faster and learn much better body placement. Steps are nice. But not necessary. At all. Imagine learning to tre flip a board from the 80s. Same thing applies o hulls designed in the 80s.

Idk what engines. Seen a guy blow up like 3 or 4 dasa engines in surf in like 50 hrs of riding. So idk. Some people got it like that. Some don't. I wouldn't buy one of those engines that swapped designers and builders a bunch of times tho. But that's just me

 

[Fat4duck350]

In 2004 I could have bought an SXR 800 for $5000 new, but I decided to invest in my 1985 550....I learned everything NOT to do a Jet Ski from that 550.

In 2012 I bought a new 2011 SXR 800 for $8000 and haven't looked back. Rebuilt it once after wearing out the first engine in 2018. Dream machine for me and ultra reliable.

SXR 800 is a real fiberglass hull with open gunwales and closed cell foam. With added versi-plugs and a wider tray, the SXR pulls ahead in comforts and reliability. SXR can drop weight by removing the hood liner, replacing rubber with hydro turf, and a dozen other easy mods that all drop a pound or three. I was able to knock 53 pounds off of my SXR.
Superjets weigh less from the factory....then they soak up water because Yamaha used stickers to seal the tray area.

Only issue I've had with my SXR is the handlepole. Went with an RRP an never looked back.

SuperJets are GREAT skis, but they do have issues with the hull and electrics.

I have an 2011. What all did you do to lighten it up without costing structural integrity? Would love to shave a few more pounds here and there. Thanks.

 

[holygoat]

No regrets. I started on a 440, built and ported a spare engine, installed that, did a 750 swap and built that, sold them both. I got a nice RN superjet but didn't really vibe with it, I think it was just too long for me after coming off of a 440. Then I finally tried an aftermarket hull and I think with some light personal mods that's the ski for me.

At the end of the day whatever you do it's all preference, what works for others isn't what works for you.

 

[Batteryman]

Look at the bottom of them and offer less

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Don't buy anything Sea•Doo! ...I should never have traded my old 650SX in on that stupid XP800. What a waste of time and money.

 

[spinyard]

Xp800’s are one of the most fun skis ever but they do take some preventative maintenance

 

[bored&stroked]

Xp800’s are one of the most fun skis ever but they do take some preventative maintenance

Yes, prevent them from acting like a normal seadoo.

 

[iangdesign]

My first ski as a 96 SeaDoo SPX. I loved that hull and engine, so much fun too ride. My next ski was a clapped out X2 I couldn't keep running to save my life. But I did learn alot on it and eventually worked into a SJ.

 

[iangdesign]

Don't buy anything Sea•Doo! ...I should never have traded my old 650SX in on that stupid XP800. What a waste of time and money.

I just bought one a couple of months ago for $250 to flip next season. It had been sitting since 2013 and has dead even 150/150 compression and started right up on fuel down the carbs.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Mine was more than 10x that and never ran right from the day it was made. A few years after I bought it I wanted to get a starter rebuild kit for it and the dealer said no can do, SD obsoletes every model as soon as it turns 10 years old, parts support becomes no longer available. I'll never forget that and I'll never encourage anyone to buy one because of that...well...that and they just suck for reliability. Too many horror stories that I personally experienced with them. There's a reason why I call them Sea•Screwed, BRF because that's what they make me do when I see them, and Canned Ham.

 

[Brad Mondun]

They look like candy to me! I’ve had this one for 11 years and never had any major problems with the engine just been upgrading it every time I come across some more custom parts.

 

[bird]

I have an 2011. What all did you do to lighten it up without costing structural integrity? Would love to shave a few more pounds here and there. Thanks.

1. Remove the excess Glue bonding the hull bottom and top. 5-10lbs
2. Block the front hood breather and remove most of the inner hood liner, keeping the rear area. Move the second breather to the rear of the hood like the other breather, and cut a second breather hole in the rear. With the fire extinguisher gone, the hood only weighs 16lbs Total.
3. Ditch all the Rubber and replace it with Hydro turf. 10lbs easy! Each rubber tray bumper is around 5lbs.
4. Aluminum Engine plate. 4-6lbs lighter.
5. Lithium Battery. 15lbs saving going from a 17lb AGM to a 2.2lb Firepower.
6. Aftermarket exhaust. I never weighed it, but the Wet Pipe is fraction of the bread box.
7. Aftermarket Waterbox. The stocker is bigger and heavier than the TDR.
8. Swiss Cheese battery holder. Aftermarket air filters. other random things removed like the tool kit. All save a pound here and there.
9. Put a second versiplug under the exhaust on the right side of the hull. With two versiplugs installed, one on each side of the tray, you'll never have water sitting in the tray area. It can easily hold a gallon or more of water back there before the stock siphon starts pumping the water midhull.

Cheers.