FL-cracker
X-H2O
- Location
- old exit 72 Melbourne
Edwin (Saki) broke a set of those bars at Daytona last year... you guy's are just bad arses I guess!
I'm sick of this...
- Thread starter SUPERJET-113
- Start date
OptimaRacing
Jet zoomers
This is what I was thinking. I've only seen this happen a couple of times on the dirt.
- Location
- UAE
glad you are ok dude. damn that's just hardcore
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
I dont know.. I just break them about every couple years or so.. I guess I'm just rough on stuff(and so I am told).
I'm 6' 1" 215 lbs, so I'm not really a small person, but I'm not a Ogar either..lol
I havent decided what I'm gonna do yet. Where the heck could i find a stainless rod? hmmm.
I do like the idea of the SS rod in the middle with epoxy resin all around it. This is a big boat town, maybe i'll hit up some of the welding shops that work on a lot of boats..:dunno:
yamaslut
kill it
- Location
- Daytona Beach, Florida
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
Is that titanium your speaking of? I assume it its...
Wonder what that would cost? Hmm another great option. Thanks Nick!
Wonder what that would cost? Hmm another great option. Thanks Nick!
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
Ok, so I just measured the X-metal straight bar that just broke and its 25", 3mm wall thickenss and 22.30mm O.D(7/8").
So since titanium is twice as strong as aluminum, the same size or close to it would be cool with me and I can always fill it with epoxy too.
I've been looking online a little, but havent found a good dealer or much pricing yet..
So since titanium is twice as strong as aluminum, the same size or close to it would be cool with me and I can always fill it with epoxy too.
I've been looking online a little, but havent found a good dealer or much pricing yet..
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There is like 30,000 different kinds of aluminum alloys. Titanium would be a great way to go like said above ^^^. But there are many aluminum alloys that are plenty strong. 7000 series for instance. Made for aircraft landing gear etc... But cant be welded. Solid will not be noticeably stronger than tube, just heavier. Stainless is not really known for its strength either.
I think most of these manufacturers just like to make them pretty and put a cool stamp in them.
I think most of these manufacturers just like to make them pretty and put a cool stamp in them.
Hi Mate,
You should be able to make some bars yourself pretty easy. I have made a set myself, like you said 7/8" solid ally bar 6061 grade t6 temper is the optimal but can be hard to get in round bar if not 2230 is fine, cut it to length 650mm approx, if your not running caps on your grips and an aftermarket throttle you only need to drill one hole to locate the start stop switch lug. end holes can be drilled and tapped M5 x 0.8 if needed.
Oh yeah and a good reason not to put stainless inside an alloy tube is that in a wet enviroment you will get electrolysis between the two dissimilar metals with the alloy turning slowly into powder
Hope it helps
Matty
You should be able to make some bars yourself pretty easy. I have made a set myself, like you said 7/8" solid ally bar 6061 grade t6 temper is the optimal but can be hard to get in round bar if not 2230 is fine, cut it to length 650mm approx, if your not running caps on your grips and an aftermarket throttle you only need to drill one hole to locate the start stop switch lug. end holes can be drilled and tapped M5 x 0.8 if needed.
Oh yeah and a good reason not to put stainless inside an alloy tube is that in a wet enviroment you will get electrolysis between the two dissimilar metals with the alloy turning slowly into powder
Hope it helps
Matty
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superjet 113
i feel your pain i have not broken them off like you but i am bending them round on them selves i have done two sets in six months i am thinking of changing to a rrp set up as they have a fat bar center section
i was told that i am better having a bar bend than breaking a wrist but i think it maybe our weight i am about the same height and weight as you maybe no hamburgers and beer is a better way for us to stop breaking bars
let me know how you go
i feel your pain i have not broken them off like you but i am bending them round on them selves i have done two sets in six months i am thinking of changing to a rrp set up as they have a fat bar center section
i was told that i am better having a bar bend than breaking a wrist but i think it maybe our weight i am about the same height and weight as you maybe no hamburgers and beer is a better way for us to stop breaking bars
let me know how you go
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
Well, titanium bars were not in the books for me as it would of cost over $200+ for a piece of tubing. So I went with 4130 Chromoly. It was $16 a foot. I got 25" for $32. Think I'm just gonna sand, prime and paint it with some good polyurentane single stage and fill the inside with resin just to keep water out.
This was material left over from making tie rods for a high performance sand rail. I found it at my machine shop here in town. Its wall thickness is prolly 4mm. I dont think I will ever bend or break this! Should last me my life time..lol On the down side it does weigh like 3 lbs. or so.
This was material left over from making tie rods for a high performance sand rail. I found it at my machine shop here in town. Its wall thickness is prolly 4mm. I dont think I will ever bend or break this! Should last me my life time..lol On the down side it does weigh like 3 lbs. or so.
Attachments
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
You got that right! Thats what happened. Looks like I got a hicky on my nip/chest from the other end.
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
Yeah, your right, maybe I better re-think this again! :439:
- Location
- central florida
While you are rethinking this , let me suggest the following: go to www.mcmaster.com and type in (search is already open):1658t53 that is an 8' lenght of 7/8 6063(T5) aluminum tubing with a wall thickness of .219". It is architectural grade, an alloy not easily corroded. About $32. Ask them to cut it in half for easier shipping.
wolf
No Holds Barred
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
You might try sanding a slight radius on the edge of your clamping surfaces, you might have a hard edge that's digging into the bar when you tighten the clamps that's causing localized fatigue, as somebody mentioned.
Look into sourcing some carbon fiber mountain bike bars- any downhill specific carbon bar is going to be lightweight, and super strong. I don't know what the bar diameters are, but it's nothing some shims wouldn't take care of.
Now that I think about it, I'll look around and see what's out there, I'd like to have some sick carbon bars on my SuperJet, BWAHAHA! Good luck.
edit: Ah, after looking at the mountain bike bars, most of 'em have a clamp diameter of 25.4 mm, or 1", so no dice unless you went with some coostom clamps. I'm going to fire some up eventually.
Look into sourcing some carbon fiber mountain bike bars- any downhill specific carbon bar is going to be lightweight, and super strong. I don't know what the bar diameters are, but it's nothing some shims wouldn't take care of.
Now that I think about it, I'll look around and see what's out there, I'd like to have some sick carbon bars on my SuperJet, BWAHAHA! Good luck.
edit: Ah, after looking at the mountain bike bars, most of 'em have a clamp diameter of 25.4 mm, or 1", so no dice unless you went with some coostom clamps. I'm going to fire some up eventually.
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