Freestyle Krash 50 Cal Footrocket Kit

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Do you have a thread on here for the sxr? Wanna comment on the paint, etc. I rolled and tipped mine and for doing it the first time, (black) not bad, but I am seriously surprised with how yours came out.
And I always thought people waxed/polished the bottoms of their skis to go faster? Are you sanding the bottom to grip the water better for carving? Or is it to make the ski faster? What is the goal?
 
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And even the black top of my ski (gas door, handle pole, etc) is all rolled and tipped (paint rolled on then spread and smoothed with a brush)
 

chixwithtrix

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I've heard Rickters have their issues, but many people have told me theirs went together easily.

When messing with a Superjet...EVERYTHING fits because the spent to much on tooling. Nice...but no aftermarket will have that. Anything that is by hand will be finicky - skis, Ducatis...etc etc
 

chixwithtrix

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Houston
Do you have a thread on here for the sxr? Wanna comment on the paint, etc. I rolled and tipped mine and for doing it the first time, (black) not bad, but I am seriously surprised with how yours came out.
And I always thought people waxed/polished the bottoms of their skis to go faster? Are you sanding the bottom to grip the water better for carving? Or is it to make the ski faster? What is the goal?
Yes, it is in the SXR forum http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/lites-class-sxr-build-for-2017.180497/

Where people get confused about 'faster' is they are thinking in straight lines. You don't race buoys in straight lines. Waxing the bottom of the hull is like trying to corner a drag car on skinnies. Like being on ball bearings, slick as owl sht...you get it. I'm no hydrodynamics scientist, but basically the sanding will 'grip' the water surface. Tiny miniscule rudders to grab and hold your line. If you aren't sliding out in corners you are going faster. The tiny amount of drag the sanding would change is miniscule.
 
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SWFL
Makes sense! So, when racing buouys is it advantageous to have trim and trim the nozzle down so more of the ski is in the water? Or trim up so the least amount of ski is in the water?
All I know is on my Seadoo's, when Trimming up so the least amount of ski was in the water, it would porpoise uncontrollably
 

chixwithtrix

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Houston
Makes sense! So, when racing buouys is it advantageous to have trim and trim the nozzle down so more of the ski is in the water? Or trim up so the least amount of ski is in the water?
All I know is on my Seadoo's, when Trimming up so the least amount of ski was in the water, it would porpoise uncontrollably
You only trim on the start, not while racing. And only in certain classes are drop nozzles allowed. Trim the nozzle down the keep the ski in the water under full throttle.
 
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chixwithtrix

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Part 6 of my Krash build is uploaded. Did a bit of artsy work with my DSLR in this one followed by the insert install process. Footage is from Tuesday of last week, not sure what to do with the sad footage I took the other three days.

Enjoy!
 

chixwithtrix

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Houston
About 8 months or so.

Brought the ski inside, garage full and need room for my husband's new ski. Sorry for the non-update posts. Planning on trying to do one thing a day to the ski. Tomorrow I'm going to shoot for helicoiling the cylinder for M8 bpipe bolts.
20170221_181414.jpg

Big thanks to JetManiac for the fast shipping! Been a big help, just got my heim joint for the RRP trim and water restrictor in the mail.
20170221_135010.jpg

Still wary of the carb and water line routing, never messed with either. Especially dual cooling. No idea where to start on the tank fittings, need to email H2O Designs to find out what is what.

How many people trimmed their footholds back? Hurt my knee again, back to the doc. But I was thinking they look a little aggressive wrapping around the back of the foot as they are.
 
About 8 months or so.

Brought the ski inside, garage full and need room for my husband's new ski. Sorry for the non-update posts. Planning on trying to do one thing a day to the ski. Tomorrow I'm going to shoot for helicoiling the cylinder for M8 bpipe bolts.
View attachment 328636

Big thanks to JetManiac for the fast shipping! Been a big help, just got my heim joint for the RRP trim and water restrictor in the mail.
View attachment 328635

Still wary of the carb and water line routing, never messed with either. Especially dual cooling. No idea where to start on the tank fittings, need to email H2O Designs to find out what is what.

How many people trimmed their footholds back? Hurt my knee again, back to the doc. But I was thinking they look a little aggressive wrapping around the back of the foot as they are.
I trimmed mine, the way they're shaped is asking for a broken ankle in the surf lol. I adjusted the front of them down a bit and kick into them now. But since your only doing flatwater you might be ok.. Just use some shoes with ankle support.
 

chixwithtrix

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Houston
I found this dual cooling w bpipe diagram. Makes sense to me, I have a T on the bottom of my mani, but same difference I think.

I'm a n00b, so any reason why I shouldn't route my cooling like this?
cooling-water-routing.gif

Also, I realized I'm an idiot and I could probably look in the tank and see what line is which. Sometimes my OCD to know stuff before I work on things makes me blind.
 
Location
Plano, TX
That's one way to do it. You could also run both to the bottom of the manifold. One out the head overboard and the other to the bottom of the headpipe. Then out the top of the headpipe to a T. One side of the T to flow control valve and bpipe stinger and the other side overboard. @yamarider knows how XScream does it. I think they go from the head to top of headpipe instead of bottom


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chixwithtrix

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Location
Houston
Sketchy artwork time. Running dual 44s on the Group K engine. I believe it is tapped for two pulse lines so I drew it like so.
Won't be using a fuel selector, on all the time. Will be installing a primer though, guessing that Ts into the feed.

On the right track?
20170223_093719.jpg
 
Location
Plano, TX
Another tip is to make your pulse lines long enough so you can unbolt your carbs and set them on top of your motor/tank to rejet and work on. It's so nice not having to pull lines off every time you pop your carbs off


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chixwithtrix

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Location
Houston
I saw some threads people said to feed each by extending the ON tube to be the same length? But others said it isn't really needed, depends on the engine I'd guess.
 

Big Kahuna

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Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Another tip is to make your pulse lines long enough so you can unbolt your carbs and set them on top of your motor/tank to rejet and work on. It's so nice not having to pull lines off every time you pop your carbs off


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If I am not mistaken that will weaken your pulse signal (Pressure).
 
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