Yami-Rider
TigerCraft FV-PRO
- Location
- Texoma
Take the engine mount plate bolts out, put blueloctite on them and reinstall. torque to 10-12ft-lbs. Seen them come loose, no fun having to pull your engine to fix.
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Take the bed plate bolts out, put blueloctite on them and reinstall. torque to 10-12ft-lbs. Seen them come loose, no fun having to pull your engine to fix.
No fun. Especially when they press agents the bottom and vibrate gouges into your new hull
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Not yet, been so busy/down after the surgery I haven't been able to touch it. Doesn't help it is stored 30 mins away from me. The CF tool and shims came in, I just need to work on it.Have you had time to check driveline alignment with the CF tool?
Not going to lie, I've never heard of a krash hull build going smooth. It's a load of crap.
If no shims on the front it would be too high in the hole. Anyone else have front shims on their Krash pump?
Back over 6 months ago when I ordered the kit there wasn't much as far as reviews. I'm not a dumb fk, at least most of the time.Not going to lie, I've never heard of a krash hull build going smooth. It's a load of crap.
Thanks @Twake for letting us know we all bought "A load of crap" Please share with us low quality jet ski hull owners what brand and make we should have bought? I have had very few issues with mine, just a lot of fine tuning and adjustments so far. I bought a Krash hull because a few of the guys around here beat on theirs regularly and they seem to hold up pretty well. Maybe they should beat on them a little harder LOL.
Yes my pump has shims on the front as well. I had Chris install a 7-14 Skat from the get go. I have never used the Krash impeller so I can not comment. Good luck with your pump! I am sure they will make it right.
Just about all AM builds have issues. Only Rickter, XScream, and Wammer hulls are damn near perfect.
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