Freestyle Krash 50 Cal Footrocket Kit
- Thread starter chixwithtrix
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I've seen some people use some pretty long pulse lines when using remote fuel pumps. They don't seem to have a problem and mine are quite a bit shorter than theirs
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Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
But that is for a Remote pump which is designed to build pressure.
If it is working, then not an issue. If your pumps diaphragms are starting to wear out, you might start having a small issue that may or may not hinder performance.
If it is working, then not an issue. If your pumps diaphragms are starting to wear out, you might start having a small issue that may or may not hinder performance.
I'm guessing with these bigger/more powerful engines and carbs it's not an issue, but on two separate stock 717's both with dual mikuni sbn38's, both setups only had the one pulse line, and one setup had the factory pulse line, maybe a few inches long with no elbows,90's etc in it, and motor ran solid... the other setup, I had been chasing a fuel gremlin for weeks, changed out sets of carbs, vents, diaphragms, etc... turns out it was a pulse line.. that one was probably twice as long as the stock pulse line, had a 90 elbow in it, which added two additional leak points, etc.. used the stock pulse line off of the first setup and the ski ran better instantly.
Not sure if there was a leak, if the line was too long altogether, if the line was weak and collapsing during pulse, but it definitely made a difference.
Not sure if there was a leak, if the line was too long altogether, if the line was weak and collapsing during pulse, but it definitely made a difference.
- Location
- Sicily, IT
Correct me if I'm wrong but dont 44s need really good pulse signal to oberate at their best? Which is part of the reason people fill in that transfer port in the mani.
- Location
- Sicily, IT
Found a pressure drop calculator on the internetz. For a 10cm long tube its about a 5 psi drop. For a 30cm long tube its a 15 psi drop. this is making a whole lot of assumptions though.
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
Anyone know what is going on with the hose routing on this carb? How the previous owner had it.
cookn
Kamikaze
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- where you live
That's a strange looking carb setup to me. What it looks like is that the pulse line broke off the left carb and it has been "repaired" with that 90 degree brass fitting. Then it looks like the right carb"s return is feeding the feed for the left carb, which to me seems crazy but I have been surprised before. It should be both carbs feed from their own line from the tank each with a filter and T the two return lines together and run them back to the tank as one. I would question the whole setup jets and all on those carbs if you have never run them before they way the setup came
cookn
Kamikaze
- Location
- where you live
on second look maybe there was a carb setup with a pulse line that came that way because it looks like it has a boss for the fitting there, I have just never seen carbs setup like that in a performance application
N3vrSat1sfied
Military Member
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
Im a little late to the party but Pulse lines should be as short as you can make them and equal lengths. Also @Jyzmbe is right for water lines. Ive always ran bpipes this way:
Xscream has their own water routing, dont have a diagram, but heres a photo: head to a t- one way to bypass, one to stinger, head to front of head pipe, bottom of head pipe to bypass, two intakes from pump to bottom of manifold. (my bypass fittings on this ski were in the top right of that photo FYI)
Xscream has their own water routing, dont have a diagram, but heres a photo: head to a t- one way to bypass, one to stinger, head to front of head pipe, bottom of head pipe to bypass, two intakes from pump to bottom of manifold. (my bypass fittings on this ski were in the top right of that photo FYI)
N3vrSat1sfied
Military Member
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
oem 44's came with that pulse line 90 on the rear carb.
As far as routing it looks like how @cookn said. They probably only had one tank pick up so only feed the front carb. X2 on doing each feed individually, and T the returns together.
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
Ok, that is what my husband and I were thinking with the one pickup, but wanted to check since we were only guessing.oem 44's came with that pulse line 90 on the rear carb.
As far as routing it looks like how @cookn said. They probably only had one tank pick up so only feed the front carb. X2 on doing each feed individually, and T the returns together.
I'll be running the 2 feed lines and T-ing the return. Seems easy, but I've been wrong before.
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
What do these routing styles have over the type I posted? Better cooling, more efficient, less hose length...?
Yeah that's how you should do it or the way it should be done for a built motor. The way he had them is how some came on a factory couch.
As far as b-pipe water routing, there are 2 ways as Jordan posted. The difference is one way fills up the head pipe from the bottom, the other fills the head pipe from the top. personal opinion, factory pipe will say fill it from the bottom, so that's what most do.(the routing picture Jordan posted)
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
Once again thanks for the input everyone. Getting down to the last bit...maybe.
Posted on FB last night I was going to try and ride this bish t ride this Sunday. Yeah....
Got the pump in this morning before work. Helicoils for Factory Pipe and ebox mount in last night after trimming the bolts. RRP trim is.....janky, but in. Can't get it about the ear like it should be because it hits the hull. Needs modification or replacement in the long run. Not surprising, but frustrating since I thought it might work in test fits.
Locktited the engine mounts last night and tightened others with antiseize, hope to get ebox mounted and engine actually installed tonight.
Posted on FB last night I was going to try and ride this bish t ride this Sunday. Yeah....
Got the pump in this morning before work. Helicoils for Factory Pipe and ebox mount in last night after trimming the bolts. RRP trim is.....janky, but in. Can't get it about the ear like it should be because it hits the hull. Needs modification or replacement in the long run. Not surprising, but frustrating since I thought it might work in test fits.
Locktited the engine mounts last night and tightened others with antiseize, hope to get ebox mounted and engine actually installed tonight.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Filling from the bottom will keep more positive pressure, if you fill from the top, the pressure may not be as well and cause less water to squirt into the chamber.
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
Engine, ebox, waterbox and trim are in.
Didn't realize a SJ battery was so freaking huge. Any small battery I can get for this weekend locally? A Grom battery is small enough, just not sure if it has enough juice.
Didn't realize a SJ battery was so freaking huge. Any small battery I can get for this weekend locally? A Grom battery is small enough, just not sure if it has enough juice.
- Location
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
Looking good. Glad you got your trim issues solved.
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