GIL
Power In The Hands Of Few
- Location
- Cullman AL
Making a pipe chamber
- Thread starter Waternut
- Start date
GIL
Power In The Hands Of Few
- Location
- Cullman AL
Yes, it was good. lol
Flash-FX
No Square..No Round..FX-1
- Location
- South Jersey Shore
Home made "Frankenstein" chamber... buddy of mine made it for his x2..
Now that's a pipe! Well...how does it work?
dude, thanks for saving this thread....
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Missed your question till now, sorry.
The wamiltons chamber just had a hole drilled in the stinger tip with an epoxy putty applied around the fitting. The epoxy doesn't bind well and breaks up too easy if you put any strain on the fitting whatsoever. I put liquid metal on when i sold it and hope it help up for the buyer.
The Crammit one is solid formed with resin as part of the pipe and then drilled and tapped to receive a fitting, or in my case a plug.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
so your not running water to the stinger but introducing it before the expansion chamber.
Are you not worried about effecting your peformance? By adding water there you are changing the tuning of the pipe.
Are you not worried about effecting your peformance? By adding water there you are changing the tuning of the pipe.
This setup was recommended to me by somebody who knew how to tune this pipe. It works very well, all 3 water screws are completely closed. The carbon chamber does not heat soak your engine compartment the way aluminum does so it can be run hot inside and stay barely warm to the touch outside, also does not steam your engine/intake whenever there is water in the bilge.
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OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
I have not changed any of the settings on the pipe from when I purchased it from Yamanube and do not see any reason to at this point. I have not heard anybody say yet that my ski is lacking performance in any way, rather it's more likely they go back to their ski to fiddle with their tuning after riding mine. My setup is personally responsible for at least 1 TS upgrade because a buddy just could not get his engine to perform as strong as mine off the bottom and after a full season of tuning, porting and misc other changes, bought a SS846 just to one up me.
Now, I'm not saying it's all the spraybar, or that it will work with any setup, I have many very well done components that all compliment each other very well but I do attribute the above average bottom end hit of my race ported 62T 760 to the pipe setup. I may be wrong but either way my ski rocks, others will agree and I'm happy.
I've spoken to a few old school tuners and they have all confirmed that this setup is a tuner's secret for getting a bigger hit off the bottom. Still haven't figured out why it hasn't caught on if it's such a good upgrade though. :dunno: They acknowledge it and then move on without too much of an explanation.
I recently did this mod to my wife's ski as well, only I added a 3 way valve off the head so I could switch between the stinger and spray bar but never got around to back to back testing. I always have to drive many hours to ride and it's just seems to get forgotten about. Plus it's her ski and i'm not allowed to touch it if it's already running good. :biggrin:
I asked Chuckie if I can run that setup on my SS846 and was told to go with their recommended water cooling setup. I do plan on playing with it though once I get used to the new power enough to notice a difference. I already have the spray bar installed in the headpipe, just need to close off the top screw, (bottom 2 already closed) and turn the valve from the stinger to the headpipe.
Now, I'm not saying it's all the spraybar, or that it will work with any setup, I have many very well done components that all compliment each other very well but I do attribute the above average bottom end hit of my race ported 62T 760 to the pipe setup. I may be wrong but either way my ski rocks, others will agree and I'm happy.
I've spoken to a few old school tuners and they have all confirmed that this setup is a tuner's secret for getting a bigger hit off the bottom. Still haven't figured out why it hasn't caught on if it's such a good upgrade though. :dunno: They acknowledge it and then move on without too much of an explanation.
I recently did this mod to my wife's ski as well, only I added a 3 way valve off the head so I could switch between the stinger and spray bar but never got around to back to back testing. I always have to drive many hours to ride and it's just seems to get forgotten about. Plus it's her ski and i'm not allowed to touch it if it's already running good. :biggrin:
I asked Chuckie if I can run that setup on my SS846 and was told to go with their recommended water cooling setup. I do plan on playing with it though once I get used to the new power enough to notice a difference. I already have the spray bar installed in the headpipe, just need to close off the top screw, (bottom 2 already closed) and turn the valve from the stinger to the headpipe.
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Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
It is a fogger nozzle that is actually inside the Headpipe that "injects" water in to the exhaust stream vs the small holes that are used for the tuning with the set screws.
OK, with the 3 screws closed I can see how this would work.
OK, with the 3 screws closed I can see how this would work.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Look in the headpipe about an inch up from the chamber coupler. There is a brass fitting protruding that connects to 1/4" hose Tee'd from the 2nd head cooling line. It puts out a fan spray of water into the exhaust path.
Foximus
CFL Cheapass.
- Location
- Oviedo, Fl
So where do you buy these fittings?
Ive been trying to get this effect in my waterbox for the last year.
Ive been trying to get this effect in my waterbox for the last year.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
I bought the last 2 that Factory Pipe had in stock. They weren't sure if they were going to have more made or not. There were some board members that posted up that they had some in stock.
We are getting off topic and covering ground that has already been covered in another thread found here.
Well I gave it a shot and here is what turned out. Not bad for my first attempt but there are a few flaws. First off, the ends were difficult and had to be cut off and then redone separately so they didn't come out exactly round...plus they're a little bigger than they should be. The bottom is a little ugly but you'd see the bottom once and then install it and never see it again so I don't care. I have some hardware for the stinger but want to make sure I have a good solid plan to mount it so it doesn't get ripped off one day.
The resin has a service temperature up to 225°F and should be ok to 250°F but it starts to lose strength quickly after 225.
The resin has a service temperature up to 225°F and should be ok to 250°F but it starts to lose strength quickly after 225.
Attachments
- Location
- South Florida
You did it! Not bad for a first attempt at all.
Maybe you can make some sort of a removable plug for the ends to keep them round.
Did you use a mold?
I thought you were going to use a higher temp resin?
Maybe you can make some sort of a removable plug for the ends to keep them round.
Did you use a mold?
I thought you were going to use a higher temp resin?
I searched for days and that was the highest temp resin I could find that was clear. The way I see it though, after a hard days ride on a hot day, you can touch your pipe and chamber without getting burned. It may not be comfortable but you can touch it. If you touch boiling water at 212° even for a split second, it'll burn the ever living piss out of you so I would think 225 should be fine. Plus it's really thin and carbon fiber diffuses heat much much faster than aluminum. Now, if I could just get my hull, I could test it out.