Making of the SNX Hull

Great update! I've been working away on my project (not nearly as extensive as yours), but your updates motivate me to work even harder. I can't wait to see the top deck come out of the mold, it's going to look awesome.

For your "seam", is that a black gelcoat? If yes, did you wax your mold after masking off the carbon sections? And then wax the masked off areas after the gelcoat dried? I'm just trying to understand the exact process (more/less out of curiosity). Thanks.
 
Nice job improvising with the router, I use a similar set up for my adjustable foot holds, you can buy the alum pre anodized and with the slot in it already. Its called heavy duty T slot track and is used in wood working...i ordered mine from Peachtree wood working supply
 
Great work Nate looks like you went with the carbon Kevlar? What IMC are you using?

Thanks! I stayed with the carbon glass. It is so stiff that I could cut it down to the exact size without distorting the weave. With the way I am laying out the visual pieces, that might be a good thing. There is only a very minor contour that it had to conform to. Hopefully it take the resin and comes out how it looks in the mold. We will see once the part is out. Next one I build I will use the Kevlar.

IMC I use is sold by German Advanved Composites. It's a poly urethane. I don't know what makes it special vs other poly urethane clears, but the price sure suggest it's special. Actually I have this suspicion it's just a PPG product rebranded and sold at a mark up. I could be wrong though. One of these days I want to try some other types of clear coats for the IMC and see how they work out. What are you using?


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Great update! I've been working away on my project (not nearly as extensive as yours), but your updates motivate me to work even harder. I can't wait to see the top deck come out of the mold, it's going to look awesome.

For your "seam", is that a black gelcoat? If yes, did you wax your mold after masking off the carbon sections? And then wax the masked off areas after the gelcoat dried? I'm just trying to understand the exact process (more/less out of curiosity). Thanks.

Thanks. I've been watching your build. Your first mold looked pretty good and the part came out nice.

To prepare the mold, I use frekote sealer and mold release. It creates a very high slip surface. The hood I made basically fell out of the mold. Once the mold is prepped with frekote, I spray a poly urethane clear coat in the mold. Due to the high slip surface, you have to mist it, let it flash off, then lay progressively thicker coats. For the black lines, I use a regular acrylic paint. After the paint dries, I remove the tape and spray another layer of IMC to seal the acrylic.

I suppose you could use black gelcoat If you were using a clear gelcoat for the IMC. You would need to spray PVA over it to fully cure, or use one of the gelcoats with the wax additive. Even though it is pricey, I like the IMC I am using. Good results when sprayed correctly.


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tokarzl

itching my arms
yeah we talked about the German advanced composites a while back. I like the duratec poly it lays nice has a lot of UV resistance and you can shine it up real nice once the part is pulled and its nice to spray. a lot of guys I have talked with are using 2k urethanes for imc and are having very good results the only thing is to make sure and post cure correctly in order to reduce or eliminate print through.

did you go with soller for the carbon fiberglass? I remember when I first got my samples and started laying them out I called john and had a few choice words to say about it. I just don't see the value in the product for the price he is asking. but his other carbon is great, that's why I use the Kevlar hybid instead less color options though
 
I'll try the Duratec next. The price point for the glass hybrid is outrageous. I don't think I would ever use it for anything other than flat panels. I originally picked the glass because the Kevlar sample has a different hue to it and he doesn't offer a Kevlar braided sleeve large enough for what I am doing with the pole. I didn't want two different blue fabrics. As long as the fabric takes the resin and the weave stays how it looks right now, I will be happy with it.


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I missed the whole handle pole discussion. Without digging what are your plans for that?

I haven't posted much about the pole. Plan is a two part mold. One piece will be the structural component and the other is cosmetic more or less. The structural piece will have the mounting area and tongue. Parts will be bonded together and then a sleeve will be placed over it.

It this doesn't work out how I am wanting, the second design idea will have a hollow bottom section and the top will be the structural portion. A separate cap will be bonded at the base for cosmetics and reinforcement.


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Fabric and infusion stack is laid up.


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Layup

Visual (~7oz)

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15.6oz Triaxial

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19.7oz Twill

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3mm Soric

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20oz Unidirectional

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3mm Soric

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19.7oz Twill

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Because the design incorporates mounting the pole directly to the top deck without a bracket, the layup for the top deck is heavier than you would normally see. Particularly in the nose area.

Hull was divided up into 4 major sections: Nose, Sides, Tray, and Foot wells. The nose was further divided into 3 sections: bracket area, complete nose overlapping sides, and half way between the two. I wanted the laminate to progressively thin.

I'll post the schedule if anyone is interested.


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So back to anodizing... I polished my test rail I made and ran it through my process. This time the current looked right and I left it in for 90 minutes. I used an anodizing dye and sealant.

Sanded 150/320/400wet/1000/2000/3000/compound

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After the etch for 3 minutes, the finish was a little dull and not quite mirror like. Might etch for less time on the actual parts.

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The dye and sealant were definitely an improvement from what I used on my first test. This piece is a lot more scratch resistant than the original samples. I'm happy enough with this to run my tubes and motor mount inserts through.


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Wow........do you have any idea of a base price on one of these? Your work is impressive to say the least.

Thanks. I haven't really sat down and done the math to determine a cost. Before offering these for sale, I want this one on the water and to get some feedback on how it rides. With that said, for a multi visual carbon one like this, the time involved is where the cost is at.


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