Matt_E Roundnose Rebuild Thread - Motor Update for 2009

[wydopen]

Website says it's fiberglass tubing.
Note I am talking about the pipe, not the valve.

the one i have on the shelf is pvc..mabye it was someones hackjob (i got it used, but it was never installed)

 

[bad93blaster]

Website says it's fiberglass tubing.
Note I am talking about the pipe, not the valve.

i think its glass from the valve out (pro finish) and pvc valve forward


wouldnt hurt to call either

 

[superramjet]

if you can seal it up well enough to not sink without foam, your foam wouldnt get wet. its no fun to search for a ski for months

 

[Matt_E]

if you can seal it up well enough to not sink without foam, your foam wouldnt get wet. its no fun to search for a ski for months

I have no illusions about sealing it perfectly. Which is exactly why I'll have drainplugs or duckbills on there. That's the idea of no foam + drain plugs.
Drain it after each ride = get rid of any accumulated water, which would be small amounts.

 

[Crab]

Instead of drain plugs, I suggesting trying installing 2 duck bill drains. They drain water automatically, and you dont have to plug/unplug them like a drain plug, it can be left alone.

They work, but are really slow.

 

[Crab]

Matt may be right- I don't think the issue would be the scupper being upside down, I think the air pressure inside the engine compartment would overcome the water pressure at the dash area. I was thinking about the issues I've been having with my oneway, my ski sinking while sitting at the dock and having another leak into the foam.


Sorry for the thread Hijack Matt

Hey Matt, just turn your one way around!:starwars:

 

[Matt_E]

I'm going with a Blowsion oneway valve and fiberglass tubing.

 

[D-Roc]

Matt, shorten your hull while you refoam it, it's not drastic and a long rideplate can almost reverse the effect. Your ski will turn and rip harder but riding surf will take some practice. I am also thinking of no foam, i thought of putting a second bilge pump in the "foam area" and pump it into the motor area put that does lead to a hole other set of risks to. I am just going to seal it up, put drain plugs in, and a air valve to pressurize the hull to check for leaks. if it holds psi and i can check it every ride i know i should be good. i am also going to run a zip disc down the bondline so i can pour epoxie in to keep the water from forcing through that area. Everyone that has rode my ski or Steve's ski said they are cutting there's this winter.

 

[Matt_E]

UPDATE

I have weighed my current hood and my dusty stocker.
My current hood is a very early WCF hood that came originally from XFT as I understand it....feel free to correct me. Stoyer ran it for a while I guess.
I got it from Jesse two years ago.
It weighs 18.5lbs complete.
The stock hood also weighs 18.5lbs. (With empty fire ext holder)

Then I spent 30 minutes with a heat gun and removed the stock liner and all associated glue and fire extinguisher holder
Now it weighs 12.5lbs.
I'll most likely cut, lower, and reinforce the stocker.

Also, I have decided I will chop 2 inches off the back.

 

[IceRocket1286]

They work, but are really slow.

Not necessarily. My limited was in the water between motos one weekend and somehow I got about 5 inches of water inside...I think a cooling line popped off in moto one at the end and I didnt notice. I looked inside, saw the water, rode around and popped the hood about 30 seconds later and it was all gone. That is with just one duckbill. 2 or 3 may do the trick, but thats just my .02

Id rather have a slow drainer than a scupper that fills my ski with waterr

 

[Mark44]

I pressure tested my hull after refoaming a few years ago and it held great but its been 3-4 years now and I get water in the hull so thank god I installed drain plugs and foam. The secret is in the voids I left in the foam on the bottom of the hull to give water a path to the drain plugs.

Mark44

 

[wydopen]

matt i think you are gonna regret shortening it whenever you ride surf...

 

[Matt_E]

Why?

 

[wydopen]

squirly??..i dont think i have to explain

 

[Crab]

If you cut it, you could bolt on some hull extensions for surf if needed.

 

[Matt_E]

^^That's what I'm thinking. Extended rideplate and/or hull extensions would be an easy fix.

Besides, I got 2 skis.

 

[thegoldenboy]

I like the no foam route with drains. Better system for keeping a ski dry. Its still nervy to ride without foam, but with the proper installer and correct materials I think it will be fine.

They have to make a foam that does not absorb water. Look into it, something rigid. You can leave the bottom of the hull foamless than run this spaceage foam in the gunwhales and topside of the tray. It would provide some flotation with all the benefits of no foam.

There has to be a foam board or flotation type material that does not absorb water....

What about foam sheeting vacuum bagged and heat sealed in a poly wrap? Make some small mounts inside your hull and slide the sheeting into place. Leave a void on 1 side for water drainage, angle the foam accordingly to allow runoff (it will runoff anyways when you ride).

Dry Foam, Flotation, Drain Plugs, Lightweight. :smoker:

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I am seriously thinking of doing that on the thunder jet,they foamed the top and bottom halves individually then put it together,I was thinking of leave the foam in the top half and sealing the bottom half,I also had an idea of using a set of boat fenders in there with tubes to blow them up for extra flotation.Those things come in sizes from 3x13 to 10x30 and are made of a heavy gauge oil and gas resistant vinyl with a port for a football needle for inflation.

 

[thegoldenboy]

You could set it up to inflate them through the drain plugs. Unscrew the drain plugs and your needle sits with in grabbing distance. Sano.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I was thinking more along the lines of running a plastic line like they use on air shocks with a schraeder valve inside the engine compartment