Metal through an 865

motoman96

Banned
Location
Lodi Cali
All I'm saying is either water or a super rich condition is gonna wash the piston an domes. I'm by no means saying that's what happened, just a hunch. Water will instantly knock all carbon off a piston/dome. And those look awfully clean. The detonation signs is what throws a wrench into the mix. Good catch on finding it early tho.

Thrust washers still intact on the crank?
 
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Both wrist pin's looked perfect, wrist pin bearing on the front cylinder ( not the one that has pitting ) had a little evidence of what looked to be surface rust on the outer edge of the cage. I checked each needle in the bearings for pitting etc and found nothing. As for the inside of the rods where the wrist pins ride they looked perfect also not a hint of moisture, rust or wear. ( All checked with magnifying glass not the naked eye )
 
All I'm saying is either water or a super rich condition is gonna wash the piston an domes. I'm by no means saying that's what happened, just a hunch. Water will instantly knock all carbon off a piston/dome. And those look awfully clean. The detonation signs is what throws a wrench into the mix. Good catch on finding it early tho.

Thrust washers still intact on the crank?

Completely agree with you, just wanted to verify that water leak was ruled out. Minus the pitting on the piston and dome this motor looks like it was put together last week. The cross hatch in the cylinder is still perfect, and there is virtually no wear on either piston skirts.

Thrust washers are still intact, Lower rod bearings do not have excessive play and look great, no signs of heat on them either.
 
if you can't find any thing i'm saying a little air leak on the back cylinder lean it out causing deto but running rich to over compensate on the low end, so it's not letting it to build up carbon, but on the the top end it leaning out so bad to deto leaving the scare due to the piston heating up under a lean condition and then the pin holes on the top of the piston and head, lean is hot and rich is cool. if any other engine builders have any thing else chime in, thats what i think, or i know.
 
Location
Australia
i only had about 6 rides before my new crank let go but i had carbon on my pistons after that short time.
 

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I'd say the qty of carbon on your pistons is also down to the oil your running..

If it were my engine I'd be tearing it right down to find the source of that peice of debris - could be a read cage part, crank shell, epoxy, carb butterfly screw etc etc - either way it shouldn't be there and could be a sign of worse to come.

Just my opinion..
 

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
Its not from DETO, the smash marks matched up on the on dome, and you can follow the path it took out the transfer port, up the cylinder, and sid eof piston. Only mark on the piston or cylinder. We checked everything over as good as possible, then cleaned the piston and dome up. Reassembled everything, and I will be water testing this weekend. Going to keep the WOT blasts to a minimum this season, incase the piston marks cause DETO down the road. Motor will be getting complete overhaul after daytona this year. New OEM crank, topend, ect.

Also going to bore scope it after a ride and make sure no new marks appear. Running 3 screens in the FA now.
 
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BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
You may notice a difference in throttle response with 3 screens. I tried this at the beginning of this season before I toasted my motor.

Went from open style F/A (Prok) to two OEM 61X guys. It didn't run right until I pulled two screens out of it. Three screens is pretty restrictive compared to the open F/A or one screen and changes the carb signal. It dumps loads more fuel due to the low popoff pressure those carbs are set at.

Give it a shot though, but i have a feeling its not going to respond as well as it used to. W
 

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
You may notice a difference in throttle response with 3 screens. I tried this at the beginning of this season before I toasted my motor.

Went from open style F/A (Prok) to two OEM 61X guys. It didn't run right until I pulled two screens out of it. Three screens is pretty restrictive compared to the open F/A or one screen and changes the carb signal. It dumps loads more fuel due to the low popoff pressure those carbs are set at.

Give it a shot though, but i have a feeling its not going to respond as well as it used to. W

Thanks for the info. I was expecting it to hurt response some, but if there is a chance it can stop something from going through the motor I'll give it a try. If it totally sucks will have to reevaluate.
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
you may need to adjust the carbs slightly. I went the easy way and went down to 1 screen. Although now I'm thinking about no screens.
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
I know, just saying 3 screens might make it load up and feel blubbery. Thats what happened to mine when I tried 3. Ran great when I dropped back to 1.

Sorry if I was unclear in the earlier posts.

Let me know how it works out for ya.
 

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
I know, just saying 3 screens might make it load up and feel blubbery. Thats what happened to mine when I tried 3. Ran great when I dropped back to 1.

Sorry if I was unclear in the earlier posts.

Let me know how it works out for ya.

Didnt know if I posted it in this thread. Def appreciate the feedback being you tried it out already. Also thinking of shop vacing the inside of the hull after every ride...lol
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
I know, just saying 3 screens might make it load up and feel blubbery. Thats what happened to mine when I tried 3. Ran great when I dropped back to 1.

Sorry if I was unclear in the earlier posts.

Let me know how it works out for ya.

You'd need to raise the popoff.
 
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