My "Better than Brand New" Square Nose Build

just an update... Ski is in winter storage.... Place where I store it/ bought it from, traded me a impeller upgrade of my choice(installed) for all the original 650 engine/electronics(along with free winter storage for the year and winterizing)...Also was going to check the pump housing/wear ring and if need be replace it with one in better shape(for free)... thought that was a pretty good deal and saved me from having to sell the 650 stuff separate.. still deciding between the 9/15 hooker or the 10/16 hooker.... im leaning towards the 10/16 hooker.. need to decide and let him know before the warm season comes so it is 100% ready for this year
 

bored&stroked

Urban redneck
Location
AZ
First off go 9/15, second off the outles from the head is fine I just wouldn't t them together, they need to stay seperate to get any flow gains.
 
First off go 9/15, second off the outles from the head is fine I just wouldn't t them together, they need to stay seperate to get any flow gains.

I was told 1 in= 1 out, 2 in = 2 out... since I only had 1 water inlet line I wanted to keep 1 outlet.... unfortunately the ada head had 2 ports.. didn't know if I should plug one of them or what... another person on pwctoday.com had it like I have it set up now.... and I tested temperatures everywhere all seems to be at proper temp..
 

bored&stroked

Urban redneck
Location
AZ
I've only run a single input with dual output on my 650sx's and my superjets here in AZ with 85* water temps and 115*air temps, so I know it works great. My outlets have 1 going strait overboard and the second goes to the pipe.
 
New season and some big updates on this..... Decided to go with the 9/15 hooker prop but upon my guy installing it, he noticed my stator housing had some damage to it so replaced that as well.. ...new decals installed, blowsion fuel pick up installed.... new fuel select valve installed.... rode this thing and it is a blast!!!.... I did notice that keeping the nose up was a bit more difficult than expected and I believe it is due to a combination of having a R&D extended ride plate and only weighing 185lbs... Purchased a D-cut ride plate to see if that helps bring the nose up for some silly old school tricks/some air... also looking into doing a poor mans trim setup just because i'm running out of stuff to touch/modify! lol





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installed the jetmaniac waterbox this weekend... I had to do some slight modifications for it to fit in the square nose but nothing crazy( A riser, aka hydroturf pole shock pad, underneath it and crossed the water box straps)… the sound is amazing and the weight savings is astounding as well... very happy with this.. I will be making a video to show what the jetmaniac water box sounds like on a 701 with b-pipe setup since I was unable to find any videos of what they sound like before I purchased.... Also was able to install the D cut ride plate- needless to say so far I love it can definitely tell a huge difference going from a R&D Extended ride plate to this! We did have one hiccup that I am pissed about... early this year I purchased a blowsion billet fuel pickup, and upon moving stuff for the waterbox replacement I notice that one of the pressed in brass barbs was loose/coming out... it literally only has 5 hrs of ride time on it... then I noticed that the blocked off barb is spinning in the housing as well!!! not very happy right now as I should have gone with the cold fusion pickup setup(threaded barbs).... I am still waiting on a response from blowsion on how they are going to remedy this... I'm half tempted to just buy the cold fusion one from Jet Maniac...


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How loose is the barb?

If you clean it up and apply Loctite retaining compound I bet it would never come out. You could try 648 but any of them should work (609, 638, etc). I would remove the ano from the bore first if you can, to get a better bond. Scuff it up.

I do understand you are upset because of the poor quality though. They should stand behind it.

Threaded would be better because you know they won't come out, however if done right the pressed in ones should be fine. For example that is how the Mikuni carb is made.

And yes I'd like to hear the waterbox video!
 
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How loose is the barb?

If you clean it up and apply Loctite retaining compound I bet it would never come out. You could try 648 but any of them should work (609, 638, etc). I would remove the ano from the bore first if you can, to get a better bond. Scuff it up.

I do understand you are upset because of the poor quality though. They should stand behind it.

Threaded would be better because you know they won't come out, however if done right the pressed in ones should be fine. For example that is how the Mikuni carb is made.

And yes I'd like to hear the waterbox video!


the barb that came completely out is like throwing a hotdog down a hallway...lol... so much play! the one I have capped off spins but hasn't pulled out yet.... that one, Loctite would probably work but the middle one that pulled out, I think jb weld would be the only way to fix.... I had to "MacGyver" it in by sanding down the next step on the brass piece and pressing it in... considering the barb was my "On" position for fuel, I needed a temporary fix- it is holding ok for now. It was more than likely pressed in slightly crooked when assembled causing the housing to be out of round... We were even contemplating drilling and tapping them for npt threaded barbs but unsure if there is enough space to do so with the three ports...

hopefully next weekend I'll get some ski time to get a waterbox video made... as long as my fuel pickup is good...
 
Ok, 638 will fill up to a .015" gap and is high strength for looser fitting parts. Can you measure the OD and ID and see if they differ by .030"? I can't imagine it would be that much. But a hotdog down a hallway is a lot...

I would not feel ok running it pressed back in just on that larger boss area. It could come out at any time and leave you stranded and maybe leak some gas into the ski. JB weld may work, but it's fairly thick so it would be tough to get in there. The retaining compound expands so it will hold on stronger than the epoxy.

Here's a quick comparison chart. I use this stuff at work and it is strong. I would still try and use 638 if you can based on the gap size because it is stronger on aluminum. They all reach full strength on steel.
http://www.mecampbell.com/contentonly.aspx?file=customerpages/specpages/LOC62040.pdf

The TDS shows strength vs bond gap size. It looks like it plateaus for gaps above .006".
http://www.loctite.com.au/aue/content_data/327275_UPGRADE638EN.pdf

Agreed the wall section looks thin on the bottom side, not sure you have enough room to npt tap it.
 
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I purchased the cold fusion. Fuel pickup this morning... I'll be installing it... I only modifiedittolimp itbacktp the dock.. tempfix ... Still no word from blowsion.. if they send me a new one I'll be selling it... Lol
 
Nothing much but my stock one had a hairline crack in the Hardline tube causingair in fuel line which equaled dying out at full throttle... The aftermarkets have flexible pickups which allow them to move with the fuel on big jumps, trick etc .. that the only advantage that I know of ..
 
Also, highly recommend Jet Maniac for any of your parts needs! not only were they able to already ship me out a cold fusion fuel pick up setup which will hopefully get here before the weekend so I can have some fun on the ski, but they were super quick to respond, and have great customer service..... BTW still waiting for Blowsion to respond to my email which I sent first thing yesterday morning..... i'm done buying anything from them....
 
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