My "Better than Brand New" Square Nose Build

Alright! Let get started! But first Cheers to anyone I have purchased parts from or have received advice from. This includes Chris @ JetManiac(The man, The Myth, The Legend) for nearly 90% of these parts and answering a bunch of my stupid questions, Freestyle 650 @ Epic for the great Billet couplers and customer service, and SmittySX for the "already started to modify for SN" Front Foothold... This one is for you!
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This off season, I decided I was not happy with the original gel coat or the decals I installed so I decided to have the ski repainted/returfed. Upon disassembly I found some more things wrong or that I wanted to change. So I decided I might as well do some upgrades while its all apart.

Parts List:
- Solas all Stainless Steel 144mm wear ring .
- New Impros HOOKER 9/15 Freeride Impeller
- R&D afterburner pump cone/stuffer
- Pump Seal (wear ring to pump shoe) 144mm
- Long 144 pump bolts -New OEM
- #zero Standard no trim style Bored 144mm SJ/B1 Reduction Nozzle
- Replacement Rule blue bilge mounting base
- OCD tidy bilge single bilge harness
- Steering cable installation kit
- Watcon replacement hood seal
- JM billet flywheel cover(black)
- Oem NEW Couch motor mounts
- BLACK Silicone Long exhaust hose-waterbox to bulkhead outlet
- OEM style fuel line -9ft roll
- OEM black primer line 5ft roll
- Thrust Watt hole bulb primer mount
- Replacement Bulb Primer
- OEM yamaha crank seal set
- Rule Bilge Pump 500gph
- 61x lightened flywheel
- JetManiac Factory Pipe B-pipe gasket set
- JetManiac's SS Bpipe headpipe bolt kit
- JM SS allen head flywheel cover bling bolt kit
- Silicone coupler for FP 45deg -SJ chamber to RN/JM waterbox(black)
- ADA billet 45deg water bypass (pisser) 3/8"
- Handlebar mount bilge switch
- Pancake Pete Front foothold
- Epic Billet Drive couplers
- UMI Standard Steering Plate
- Blowsion Billet Hood Latch
- Blowsion SN Billet handle pole Bracket
- Cold Fusion Billet Battery Tray
- Total Bilge- Bilge paint/coating
- New Molded Diamond Hydroturf kit and super thick underpad

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I'm probably forgetting something but you get the picture....

To start out this "Frame off Restoration", I've decided to have a couple pieces powder coated and others reanodized to better flow with the new paint scheme. Also had a bunch of items to modify for aesthetics and some for function.

Modification To Do List:
- Fuel door delete/ one piece nose
- Yamaslut Hood Modifications
- Fix/replace steering cable thru hull fitting(thank god the foam is still dry)
- Modify Front foot hold for storage box and trimmed for a SN
- Modify pump and exhaust manifold for dual cooling
- Clean up AC handle pole welds
- Clean Bilge and coat in Bilge coating/paint
- Clean/repaint engine to match color scheme
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^Drilled and tapped for Dual Cooling Setup
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^New Wear Ring, Pump cone stuffer, 9/15 Hooker, and Bored reduction nozzle assembled

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^Front foot hold modified to fit and start of storage door( idea from member special fx).. Steering through hull fitting replacement(Awaiting 2 part foam from us composites), and Also Bilge cleaned/prepped and painted..


Powder coat parts list:
- B pipe Exhaust Manifold
- B pipe Limited Chamber
- Rear side rail molding transition pieces
- Bed plates

Anodizing parts list:
- Blowsion Throttle Lever
- UMI Standard Steering Plate
- Blowsion Billet Hood Latch
- Blowsion SN Billet handle pole Bracket
- Cold Fusion Billet Battery Tray
- ODI Grip Rings
- FRI Billet Fuel Selector Knob
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Upon slight disassembly for paint and new part install, found seal or crankcase gasket leak in flywheel cover area... Decided to reseal the entire engine.. awaiting OEM Seals and gaskets to properly do job. After resealed it will be getting a lightened flywheel installed, along with some epic billet couplers.
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Only hint I will give on the color scheme is it will still be my colors of white, black and yellow/gold and will still have factory decals to an extent. My goal on any of my builds is to have people think it came from the factory that way. Stay tuned for more updates!
 
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Split the case, checked all the bearings and crank- all in good condition.. cleaned all up and relubed proper locations.. Crank Case resealed and new OEM Crank seals installed.... Awaiting a new base gaskets to come in to replace that then all gaskets have been replaced... This 701 is cleaning up pretty nicely... Bendix looks to be in great shape still...
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Here is a little peak of some goodies from JetManiac:

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and a little test fit of this gorgeous billet flywheel cover!
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Also Installed OCD Solutions Tidy bilge Harness in the ebox (highly recommend any of his products if you are a perfectionist like I am).. notice his surf armor battery cables I purchased a while ago from him as well.
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anyone else have the issue of their ada racing girdle kit acorns and washers rusting? I purchased m10x1.25 stainless acorns and washers to replace them just in case..

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question, is this how everyone adjusts the Jetworks FCV? if so what rpm is everyone wanting it open at? I have a tiny tach installed so if I have a rpm number it should be easy work..

According to their installation pdf, 4.5 psi is normal setting, what kind of hand pump are they using to test the psi?
http://jetworksperformance.com/wp-c...Jetworks-Flow-Control-Valve-Instructions-.pdf

does anyone just a have how many turns out it need to be in the ball park of normal?

Also since im doing dual cooling this time around will I need a restrictor before each pisser? or just a restrictor on the line going from head to pisser?

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Location
Wisconsin
question, is this how everyone adjusts the Jetworks FCV? if so what rpm is everyone wanting it open at? I have a tiny tach installed so if I have a rpm number it should be easy work..

According to their installation pdf, 4.5 psi is normal setting, what kind of hand pump are they using to test the psi?
http://jetworksperformance.com/wp-c...Jetworks-Flow-Control-Valve-Instructions-.pdf

does anyone just a have how many turns out it need to be in the ball park of normal?

Also since im doing dual cooling this time around will I need a restrictor before each pisser? or just a restrictor on the line going from head to pisser?

View attachment 371644

So you intend to increase cooling capacity by introducing dual cooling... Yet you also intend to reduce overall cooling by adding restrictors on the overboard lines? I'm not sure I follow this logic. Have you done a calculation to determine that you will be overcooling the motor now, or something? If you are worried about this, install some temp strips in various locations on the power package to determine your static temperature and adjust your cooling pack accordingly. I remember when cold fusion was selling adjustable pissers.. Some guy on here bought them and thought they were going to work magic, I saw them for sale within a few weeks from the same guy. Just saying.

I think most people will fine tune the FCV on the water and adjust by what they feel. If you determine exactly what pressure will actuate the valve on a perfectly tuned boat, I'm sure that will be useful information to people.. Do a search for what RPM people like to run, I'm sure this has been covered a dozen times on this board.
 
So you intend to increase cooling capacity by introducing dual cooling... Yet you also intend to reduce overall cooling by adding restrictors on the overboard lines? I'm not sure I follow this logic. Have you done a calculation to determine that you will be overcooling the motor now, or something? If you are worried about this, install some temp strips in various locations on the power package to determine your static temperature and adjust your cooling pack accordingly. I remember when cold fusion was selling adjustable pissers.. Some guy on here bought them and thought they were going to work magic, I saw them for sale within a few weeks from the same guy. Just saying..

Everyone I've talked to or posts I have read on here state that dual cooling is a second defense to a clogged line. Have also read that the added pressure in the cooling system allows for better adjustment of the bpipe screws. Another factor that comes up in every post i've read on here states that dual cooling allows for better equal cooling of both cylinders. And anyone that has dual cooling in colder climates( basically any place other than cali or florida temps) runs said restrictors to equalize cooling system properly... I will be doing the temp strips this time around

I think most people will fine tune the FCV on the water and adjust by what they feel. If you determine exactly what pressure will actuate the valve on a perfectly tuned boat, I'm sure that will be useful information to people.. Do a search for what RPM people like to run, I'm sure this has been covered a dozen times on this board...

The on the water test is just a bit more difficult due to me not being able to just sit on the loading ramp and tune this, as others are waiting for the drop in spot. I did it that way last year and think it was setup ok but think I had more potential if there is a more accurate way of tuning it.

Just for more knowledge and correct me if I'm wrong but:
-Cylinder temps =around 140 degrees
-Water box =130 degrees
-bpipe chamber- to a sizzle(? degrees)
 
Location
Wisconsin
Everyone I've talked to or posts I have read on here state that dual cooling is a second defense to a clogged line. Have also read that the added pressure in the cooling system allows for better adjustment of the bpipe screws. Another factor that comes up in every post i've read on here states that dual cooling allows for better equal cooling of both cylinders. And anyone that has dual cooling in colder climates( basically any place other than cali or florida temps) runs said restrictors to equalize cooling system properly... I will be doing the temp strips this time around



The on the water test is just a bit more difficult due to me not being able to just sit on the loading ramp and tune this, as others are waiting for the drop in spot. I did it that way last year and think it was setup ok but think I had more potential if there is a more accurate way of tuning it.

Just for more knowledge and correct me if I'm wrong but:
-Cylinder temps =around 140 degrees
-Water box =130 degrees
-bpipe chamber- to a sizzle(? degrees)

I applaud your effort for wanting to optimize water pressure for every time you ride the ski by adjusting restrictors in the lines, but experience tells me this is a wasted effort and the gains you'll experience from this will be unnoticeable once you get the ski on the water and dialed in. When it gets really cold, you may consider richening up your fuel mixture, but other than that, it's mostly a stock motor, man. Just ride the thing. Curious, what's your plan for bpipe screws?

As for FCV, just head to the ramp before the major busy summer months, I would say.
 
I applaud your effort for wanting to optimize water pressure for every time you ride the ski by adjusting restrictors in the lines, but experience tells me this is a wasted effort and the gains you'll experience from this will be unnoticeable once you get the ski on the water and dialed in. When it gets really cold, you may consider richening up your fuel mixture, but other than that, it's mostly a stock motor, man. Just ride the thing. Curious, what's your plan for bpipe screws?

As for FCV, just head to the ramp before the major busy summer months, I would say.

Well I haven't posted it yet but I have a Jetmaniac freestyle ported 82mm top end kit on its way to me so it will be a little bit more modified than stock... I appreciate the insight/your opinion on this since you are very close to the same weather/ water temps as I am likely riding. As of now, I'm starting with bottom screw@ 3/4-1 full turn out, middle screw closed, and top screw - 1/4 turn opened... sound about right... I think last year my pipe was running a bit hotter than should have been hence having to screws out a bit more than factory suggests...

I'm hoping the damn fishermen stay out of my way so I can dial this damn fcv in! lol I have a tiny tach installed as well so hopefully I can find an rpm people like it opening at.

Thanks again for the information!
 
A couple pics of some more progress....

Front nose piece fuel door gone!

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Bilge coat final coat done... Turned out ok... Way better than 1990 poo brownish fiberglass

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Also decided I'm going to be doing a jetmaniac freestyle ported top end kit.. 82mm pro-x pistons and such.... Awaiting parts then engine parts will be off for paint!

Can't wait!
 
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