My first AM build. Rickter XFR - Full Carbon

JKMike

JKMike

Location
Annapolis, Maryland
Hypothetical question for yaw composite experts out there, what's a better surface to bond to? The textured surface left by the peel ply (lots of tiny bumps), assuming all clear coat has been remover or is it just better to sand the surface down to bare carbon/glass? I have always just sanded the surface down till I hit carbon/fiberglass but I was wondering, since the finish left by the peel ply leaves all those tiny bumps, if that might actually provide more surface area to bond to and thus create a stronger bond. Any thoughts?
 
M

mikesx

If it has never been cleared a peel ply surface is fine to bond to provided you wipe with degrease/de-wax prep, or acetone . If it has been clear coated , you got to sand .
 
JKMike

JKMike

Location
Annapolis, Maryland
mikesx said:
If it has never been cleared a peel ply surface is fine to bond to provided you wipe with degrease/de-wax prep, or acetone . If it has been clear coated , you got to sand .
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Interesting! Well it seems like they deffinately spray some sort of clear in the engine compartment. It's not a very tough clear coat though. Even rubbing alcohol melts it. I would have rather them just left it bare epoxy.
 
JKMike

JKMike

Location
Annapolis, Maryland
Not sure if anyone else has tried these before. They are called Weld Mounts and are very strong epoxy on zip tie mounts. They work great for securing and routing cables, hoses and wiring. This was my first time trying these and I have to say I'm very impressed. I used a couple of the larger ones to secure my steering and trim cables and so far they have held up great. They recomend their expensive acrylic adhesive but I just used Gflex 655 Thickened epoxy and they all still holding strong.

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Sanoman

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
JKMike said:
Not sure if anyone else has tried these before. They are called Weld Mounts and are very strong epoxy on zip tie mounts. They work great for securing and routing cables, hoses and wiring. This was my first time trying these and I have to say I'm very impressed. I used a couple of the larger ones to secure my steering and trim cables and so far they have held up great. They recomend their expensive acrylic adhesive but I just used Gflex 655 Thickened epoxy and they all still holding strong.

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Looks interesting.l have used the double sided tape ones for electrical wiring,which seem to work with some adhesive promoter.But l tried them on some water lines (even overcompensating with several) and they failed quickly.You may have found the answer! Thanks for sharing
 
JKMike

JKMike

Location
Annapolis, Maryland
Sanoman said:
Looks interesting.l have used the double sided tape ones for electrical wiring,which seem to work with some adhesive promoter.But l tried them on some water lines (even overcompensating with several) and they failed quickly.You may have found the answer! Thanks for sharing
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Yea I used to use the double sided tape ones, but I would clean off all the tape then drill 4 small holes in the corners and glue them on. But that was always a hassle. These are so much easier.

Also the small one is rated for a 50lb pull strength and the larger one is 150lb pull strength. Meant to put that in my original post.
 
JKMike

JKMike

Location
Annapolis, Maryland
So while I was waiting for my hull to arrive this past winter decided to go ahead and do some porting work on the cylinder and cases. I realize this was risky, but I figured if I screwed it up I would just get a big motor sooner. I tried to keep it pretty conservative since this was my first time porting a 2 stroke. I didn't mess with any of the transfer port heights, I mainly cleaned up the mismatch between the sleeve and casting, while making sure not to mess with the roof angle too much. What do yaw think?


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JKMike

JKMike

Location
Annapolis, Maryland
So much for Rickter making sure they actually sealed up the tray... I went to change out my rideplate and I noticed water kept dripping out of 2 of the threaded inserts, what you see in the picture is only about 10 min worth of dripping. I left it overnight and that cup was full this morning.

Has anyone else had issues with water getting into the the tray on their Rickter and if so what did you do about it? Obviously I need to figure out where its getting in but I'm also thinking about installing a drain in the tray.

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Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
With it dry, back the ski into water with just the ride plate in the water, let sit for 20-30 minutes, pull out and see if any water is coming out of the bolt holes, if so, seal up the insert area. Also, did you run any sealant around any of the tubing in the bulkhead or at the pump side? I sealed up all penetrations on my Edge just to be safe. May want to do this if not.
 
JKMike

JKMike

Location
Annapolis, Maryland
Big Kahuna said:
With it dry, back the ski into water with just the ride plate in the water, let sit for 20-30 minutes, pull out and see if any water is coming out of the bolt holes, if so, seal up the insert area. Also, did you run any sealant around any of the tubing in the bulkhead or at the pump side? I sealed up all penetrations on my Edge just to be safe. May want to do this if not.
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Yea I sealed up all the coolant, trim and steering tubes from both sides really well. As for the exhaust and scupper tubes I touched up a few spots that looked a little light on sealant but I didn't go crazy on those. On the XFR the exhaust tube is super low on the bulkhead so I couldn't really get under it to add much sealant. I will definitely be adding some more to those two. Heck I even filled in the tiny gaps where I could see parts of the external threads on the pump and ride plate inserts with a syringe and epoxy. lol
 
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