My first AM build. Rickter XFR - Full Carbon

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Your pole should have come with 2 sets of bushings. Did you use the SJ ones or SXR? Also. Slightly bevel the outer edge. This will let the bushings slide in. Or remove bracket and loose ears. Do not use a clamp to squeeze anything to fit.
 
Your pole should have come with 2 sets of bushings. Did you use the SJ ones or SXR? Also. Slightly bevel the outer edge. This will let the bushings slide in. Or remove bracket and loose ears. Do not use a clamp to squeeze anything to fit.

Deff the SJ ones, not sure anyone could mix those up. The SXR ones are like twice as thick. Lol I was considering putting a bevel on one side to help slide them in. Gna try loosening the bracket first.
 
I was able to get the handle pole all put together and test fit. I kept the carbon tube length at 20" to start, and even that feels a little short. Im sure it will just take some getting used to. Thanks again to for yaws advice. It took a combination of both loosening the bracket and putting a slight bevel on the bushings to get it installed. Pics to come.

Next question... Lol This will be the first time I have tried running a pole without a spring and I'm not sure how tight it should be. I have the RRP aluminum bolt and spacer and I have cranked down on them but the pole still feels a little loose, but maybe its just me. Is the goal here just to prevent it from flopping around or should the pole be able to take a little bit of weight without moving?
 
Location
Stockton
Little bit of weight without moving. Should stay put......I use a large breaker bar or a wrench with a cheater wrench on the first wrench to crank the bolt down. Then tighten the nut uo...

I switched to stainless bolt I was cranking it down so tight... my other skis poll has aluminum RRP bolt.... not risen it yet but it’s still too loose.... have to tighten more.. hard to lift poll but goes down too easy...

On the poll bracket uprights did you loosen all the on each side ?
 
Little bit of weight without moving. Should stay put......I use a large breaker bar or a wrench with a cheater wrench on the first wrench to crank the bolt down. Then tighten the nut uo...

I switched to stainless bolt I was cranking it down so tight... my other skis poll has aluminum RRP bolt.... not risen it yet but it’s still too loose.... have to tighten more.. hard to lift poll but goes down too easy...

On the poll bracket uprights did you loosen all the on each side ?

Yea I was a little worried about cranking it down too much. But good to know. Mine is deff harder to lift than to push down. So probably need to go tighter.

On the pole bracket, I did loosen all of the bolts then installed the pole, got the bolt started and then tightened all of the bracket bolts. I will deff put red loctite on the bracket bolts when I do the final assembly. Why do you ask though?
 
Location
Stockton
Yea I was a little worried about cranking it down too much. But good to know. Mine is deff harder to lift than to push down. So probably need to go tighter.

On the pole bracket, I did loosen all of the bolts then installed the pole, got the bolt started and then tightened all of the bracket bolts. I will deff put red loctite on the bracket bolts when I do the final assembly. Why do you ask though?

My uprights flopped around a lot when loosened so no chamfer needed on the bushings on mine... I did put anti seize on all the those bolts though... was just curious....
 
Got the hood prongs and latch installed. The paper method worked great for locating all the spots where the seal wasnt tight enough.20200621_095512.jpg20200621_095521.jpg

After several days of grinding away at that pump shoe, I think this is about as good as its gonna get. Then i finished removing the remaining gelcoat and double checked everything was square. Got the gap to 0.050" +/- 0.005.
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Pump shoe is finally glued in! So happy to be done with this part of the build!!
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The pump is installed!!!

Btw, Harbor, my mind is officially blown with how easy it was to compress the seal to get the fwd bolts in when I used a rollbar (aka Death Spike)! I had originally tried using a 1/4 extension as a pry bar and didnt have much luck. It must be the tapered spike on the end that made the difference. I owe you one bro!

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The Long and Short Rideplates have been fitted. Not impressed with the alignment of the holes or the quality of the countersinks. Intake grate is also in. Time to flip her over. 20200627_072956.jpg20200627_073059.jpg
 
Got the hood prongs and latch installed. The paper method worked great for locating all the spots where the seal wasnt tight enough.View attachment 396768View attachment 396769

After several days of grinding away at that pump shoe, I think this is about as good as its gonna get. Then i finished removing the remaining gelcoat and double checked everything was square. Got the gap to 0.050" +/- 0.005.
View attachment 396771View attachment 396772View attachment 396773

Pump shoe is finally glued in! So happy to be done with this part of the build!!
View attachment 396774View attachment 396775View attachment 396776
Did you use Plexus on shoe ?
 
Nah I used west systems G-flex 655 thickened epoxy then I added some west systems 404 high density filler to thicken it up to about the consistency of peanut butter, and some black pigment so it matched the hull.

The plexus that was recommended to me cooks off way too fast. I prefer the 45 min I get with the G-flex as it gives me time to smooth everything out.
 
What's the deal with the coupler spacers that came with the hull? Is it recommended to use both or just one or what?

Up to you. They're good for moving the motor forward if you have the rear tank, or need it to get your pipe more forward. It also helps with weight distribution if you want more weight in the front, should help with more height, but slower rotations.
 
Up to you. They're good for moving the motor forward if you have the rear tank, or need it to get your pipe more forward. It also helps with weight distribution if you want more weight in the front, should help with more height, but slower rotations.

Cool, that's good to know. I have it set up with just one of the spacers right now. I'll probably add the second latter down the road.

On another note, has anyone with a b-pipe in an XFR ran into issues with the exhaust hose not being long enough? I have a JM waterbox and neither the stock nor the watcon hose I have are long enough. If I have to I can always just cut one and add a straight extension somewhere.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
On my freak I had to add a section of hose. Use a section of handlepole tube. Find a section and cut the hose the install the RRP tube section and slide on and find length you need. On my edge just using the Rad Dudes hose with Jetmaniac waterbox. No extension needed.
 
Unfortunately my handlepole only came with the carbon tubes and I don't need to cut those down right now. I was expecting to get the aluminum tubes as well but idk what happened. I might try and push the matter with Taylor or I can just borrow some aluminum tube from work.
 
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