My first AM build. Rickter XFR - Full Carbon

Location
Stockton
I was thinking a little further on the grinding, if you grind the outside of ears and move the shoe over, the inside of the ears may also need shaping to blend the transition from duct to the shoe ears, since they are moving to one side. Also the pocket for your intake grate will move to one side as well so you’ll have to open that pocket slightly or grind one side of intake grate to get it back on center...

All doable... but not sure what you decided, just some other things to consider...
 
Location
Georgia
Hey yaw,

This is going to be my first aftermarket build so I figured I would do my best to document it. It's been quite the adventure getting here. Between global pandemics, mass riots and several panick attacks, I wasnt sure she would ever make it to me. But I'm happy to report she has finallly arrived.

Take your first look at my brand new one of a kind 2020 Full Carbon Rickter XFR!
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That thing is gorgeous!
 
I was thinking a little further on the grinding, if you grind the outside of ears and move the shoe over, the inside of the ears may also need shaping to blend the transition from duct to the shoe ears, since they are moving to one side. Also the pocket for your intake grate will move to one side as well so you’ll have to open that pocket slightly or grind one side of intake grate to get it back on center...

All doable... but not sure what you decided, just some other things to consider...

Yea those are all very good points and those were the exact reasons I was so pissed about this whole situation. I get some custom fitting will be required on these skis. But this is just ridiculous. Just dosent make sense considering all the other RRP parts I have are like a works of art. But enough of me ranting and complaining.

I did look into some other Pump Shoes. Not many good reviews on the Jet Dynamics one but I am curious how the Torrent 155 pump shoe is.

I spent most the day grinding on the pump shoe to try and get it to fit right. I made some good progress but I will probably wait for my intake grate to get here, so I can grind and test fit that before I glue everything up.

I plan to start assembling some of the other components tomorrow so more pictures to come.
 
Does anyone have any recommendation on how much of a gap to leave between the front of the wear ring and the shoe to allow for the seal to compress? Does it really need to be so tight that it takes multiple people just to get the bolts in without cross threading them?
 
Location
Stockton
Does anyone have any recommendation on how much of a gap to leave between the front of the wear ring and the shoe to allow for the seal to compress? Does it really need to be so tight that it takes multiple people just to get the bolts in without cross threading them?

That dimension is already been Built in, how you thinking to change it ? Elongate pump mounting holes I guess would be easy..?.

I know what you mean about compressing it. At least you have a 2 piece pump so you shouldn’t have to mess with it much
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
You jist need to be sure your pump amd shoe os square with each other. Look at my build thread. You will see where i jad to glue some washers to tje shoe to make ot square witj the pump
 
That dimension is already been Built in, how you thinking to change it ? Elongate pump mounting holes I guess would be easy..?.

I know what you mean about compressing it. At least you have a 2 piece pump so you shouldn’t have to mess with it much

So as it is currently, there is still gelcoat on the aft face of the hull where the shoe will get glued to. I wanted to wait untill I have the final location of the shoe set before I removed it in that area. Sides of the tunnel are all clean. Now I realize the gelcoat does have some thickness to it, but not much. With all of that said I have tried bolting up the pump with the seal on it and I physically cant compress the seal enough on my own to get the fwd bolts in without crossthreading them. I could probably do it with 2 people if I had to but I would rather avoid making that a necessity. I also never had this issue on my SJ and this is going to be my best opportunity to correct it. As for how I would adjust that dimension it would either be by removing material from the shoe, the hull or like you said elongating the holes some.

So currently I have 0.075" +/- 0.015" all the way around between the front lip of the wear ring, without the seal on and the shoe. And to address Big Kauhuns comment, that is with the shoe shimed square to the pump with washers.

I bring all of this up because I helped my buddy align his pump on his maybe 4 year old edge last month and his gap was so small it was almost impossible to get his pump in. At one point we even tried ratchet straps. Lol And to make matters worse his inserts were almost totally destroyed from being cross threaded in the past because of how tight the pump was. I'm just trying to avoid running into the same situation.
 
So as it is currently, there is still gelcoat on the aft face of the hull where the shoe will get glued to. I wanted to wait untill I have the final location of the shoe set before I removed it in that area. Sides of the tunnel are all clean. Now I realize the gelcoat does have some thickness to it, but not much. With all of that said I have tried bolting up the pump with the seal on it and I physically cant compress the seal enough on my own to get the fwd bolts in without crossthreading them. I could probably do it with 2 people if I had to but I would rather avoid making that a necessity. I also never had this issue on my SJ and this is going to be my best opportunity to correct it. As for how I would adjust that dimension it would either be by removing material from the shoe, the hull or like you said elongating the holes some.

So currently I have 0.075" +/- 0.015" all the way around between the front lip of the wear ring, without the seal on and the shoe. And to address Big Kauhuns comment, that is with the shoe shimed square to the pump with washers.

I bring all of this up because I helped my buddy align his pump on his maybe 4 year old edge last month and his gap was so small it was almost impossible to get his pump in. At one point we even tried ratchet straps. Lol And to make matters worse his inserts were almost totally destroyed from being cross threaded in the past because of how tight the pump was. I'm just trying to avoid running into the same situation.
Who's 155 seal do you have ? Oe ,Oe style (Maniac) or RD ? What 155 pump do you have?
 
I set my shoe flush, touching the lip on my wear ring (SBT w/Oe Stator), and had pump bolt bound full forward . After epoxy set had no problems compressing seal (Maniac Oe Type). I did eat my Wheaties that morning, but you want it tight. Better to have a fight putting it in than having it cavitate. Slop the pump full forward on bolts, set shoe to that.
 
Location
Stockton
Not sure what you mean here. Please enlighten me.

With the assembled pump in place I use 2 roll bars placed thru the reduction ears into the mounting holes in hull to pry/push the pump forward and compress the seal to get the front bolts in

 

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Crehderman

ClitterHitterMotorsports
Location
Oregon
I built my xfr last year, it had basically the same shoe fitment issues. That ski is gonna look sick!
 

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I ran into an issue when trying to install the base of the handlepole so I could figure our how long to make the carbon tubes. With the bushings installed the handlepole is to wide to fit in the bracket. Now there is a bit of slop with the RRP spacer so I might be able to compress everything and get it in the bracket but I will have to borrow a clamp from work to do it. The other option i was considering was taking about 0.015" off of each bushing with my lathe at work. If anyone knows a trick to getting this thing installed please let me know?

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Location
Stockton
I ran into an issue when trying to install the base of the handlepole so I could figure our how long to make the carbon tubes. With the bushings installed the handlepole is to wide to fit in the bracket. Now there is a bit of slop with the RRP spacer so I might be able to compress everything and get it in the bracket but I will have to borrow a clamp from work to do it. The other option i was considering was taking about 0.015" off of each bushing with my lathe at work. If anyone knows a trick to getting this thing installed please let me know?

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Loosen the uprights Allen’s from under the poll bracket so the uprights can move a little
 
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