Super Jet My First RN Build - Complete rebuild, shorten, and rocker!

JetManiac

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Location
orlando
Just took a quick look at your pics. You have a 62t flywheel with a 61x stator. That is an issue and why your expected charge coil resistance is out of spec.

Also those are VForce 1 reeds and cages so that is a bonus, but you should remove the reed spacer for freestyle use. It increases the effective case volume which lowers low end hit.
 
Just took a quick look at your pics. You have a 62t flywheel with a 61x stator. That is an issue and why your expected charge coil resistance is out of spec.

Also those are VForce 1 reeds and cages so that is a bonus, but you should remove the reed spacer for freestyle use. It increases the effective case volume which lowers low end hit.

Thanks! :) I was wondering about that spacer and that would make sense with the stator. Looks like I'm getting a new one. I'm also interested in your gaskets as referred in an earlier post. How much for a complete gasket kit? (62T cases, 61X cylinder, Factory B Pipe, 64X intake manifold)
 
The main reason I want to do it is to port my cases. I don't plan on having any exposed epoxy if I can, just more of added strength when I thin out some of the walls a little.

The only place I was considering epoxying that would be exposed to fuel and oil was the intake fingers. I've read alot about porting and it seems there are several people filling in the fingers on their intakes. Even xScream recommends it and porting for their top end kits. Thoughts?
 
5.jpg hmmmm.... Well would you guys recommended modifying those fingers at all then? Or leave em as it? And also I have seen a lot of people cutting/notching the bottom of the sleeve of the for the boost port, is this good for freestyle? See attached pic for the ramping of the fingers and notching.
 
Location
Ohio
All parts of builders packages that all add up together....so I have no idea.

I only KNOW that epoxy is not aluminum casting and does not last....in my experience....over time...with more than one motor....from more than one builder.

If you are riding surf keep it simple and reliable....IMHO.
 
All parts of builders packages that all add up together....so I have no idea.

I only KNOW that epoxy is not aluminum casting and does not last....in my experience....over time...with more than one motor....from more than one builder.

If you are riding surf keep it simple and reliable....IMHO.

Man I wish I could ride surf.... a man can dream..... :rolleyes: For me its mostly flatwater freestyle with the odd wake boat going by. If I were to do the ramp like that I'm thinking of drilling 1/4" holes at various angles into the fingers and walls and ensuring the epoxy flows into those hole. The idea would be that the epoxy would anchor itself into the casting not just sit on top.
 
14224877241051438761863.jpg Another question lol....

I just noticed this on my cases. The rear bearing pin is flush with the case? Did it break off the pin and spin in the case? If so will I need a new set of cases? There seems to be some marks on the surface the bearing touches but I can't feel any edges or imperfections. IMAG0469.jpg
 
Location
Ohio
I have never seen that. But those pins are removable/replaceable. And I think they for alignment only...can someone else confirm??

I don't like the sound of your epoxy idea at all though! I think you either run as is (I would) or remove all and start over.

I know nothing though in the scheme of things...only what I have witnessed...
 
Ya needless to say I don't trust anything on this ski now. I'm going to go through every single but and bolt on this thing. I've already tested most the components In the ebox and the only thing I can't confirm is the msd enhancer, any idea how to test?. I've removed all the parts and I'm going to completely refinish the ebox and possibly make a new cover with a better seal . All connections have been cleaned and buffed with a die grinder brush wheel. Ordering new spark plug cables though cause these seem to have weak spots.

P.S: thanks to a friendly competition to have the best ski, I'm now contemplating doing a rocker and -3 off the back Lol.
 
Location
Ohio
The only way to test the CDI is get the ski ready to run...and then ride it...

Man I hope that is good for you because they are pricey...
 
On a more postive note, after discussing with the previous owner all the issues with the ski when I was told it just needed a battery, he has offered to buy me a replacement OEM Starter and OEM stator. Certainly doesn't cover all the issues but he'll it all helps :)
 
Location
Ohio
If he buys new OEM of those it dang near will cover whatever I bet! He is looking at $600 bones + I think....assuming you didn't pay a ton for that thing...
 
I don't know if he will buy new... that would be nice though lol. Either way as long as they work and are OEM I have no problem taking them apart and reconditioning them and sealing everything up. I have a funny picture to post shortly from my phone, show you guys what kind of a hack job the stator was; so anything is better than what was there.
 
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