Need your input on new ignition "brain" design

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Location
Glenmoore pa
Idk if I said this before but I’m not really trying to compete with zeel. It’s a great plug and play setup. This is more advanced and targeted for people who want more control and more precision.
 
I’m going to include a pin that you put in the sensor hole and seats into the missing tooth. Set motor at TDC, put pin in place. Mark and drill a small hole in snout of crank and tap in a roll pin. I’d call that optional but keeps you from having to reset every time u remove flywheel. This will get u in the ballpark. Verify with timing light and adjust static angle as needed. It’s nowhere near as plug and play as zeel, but it’s tough to solve. I’ve got some ideas to simplify the setup in the future.
How will you mark the flywheel with the flywheel cover on? How I would think to do this is maybe index off of the 3 bolt hole for pulling the flywheel, unless they are just in random spots.
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Location
Glenmoore pa
How will you mark the flywheel with the flywheel cover on? How I would think to do this is maybe index off of the 3 bolt hole for pulling the flywheel, unless they are just in random spots.
You won’t. Put the cover on just with a bolt or two, slide alignment pin in, take cover off

Just thought of this…. Maybe I’ll make a little tool that goes in the key of the flywheel and bends around with a little drill hole to drill the snout hole in a repeatable place based on the only reliable thing, the crank key way.
 

smokeysevin

one man with a couch
Location
Houston
Yes, agreed. I just need a simple way for people to get the wheel in pretty close ballpark during initial setup.

To do the base map on my 15f, I measured for TDC using a dial indicator on number 1, then scribed the crank coupler and put a pointer on the crankcase that pointed at the mark. Then adjusted base timing offset using a fixed timing value in the ecu while cranking and just used a timing light to match it up. Worked well, and I didn't need to screw with anything under the cover.

Sean
 
I'm a little slow I guess, I'm having a hard time picturing how the trigger wheel attaches. Just clamps under the flywheel bolt up against the flywheel? Then what part of the crank are you drilling and putting a roll pin into/through? Isn't the crank end completely covered by the flywheel?
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I'm a little slow I guess, I'm having a hard time picturing how the trigger wheel attaches. Just clamps under the flywheel bolt up against the flywheel? Then what part of the crank are you drilling and putting a roll pin into/through? Isn't the crank end completely covered by the flywheel?
Don't worry you are not the only one not getting this
 
I'm a little slow I guess, I'm having a hard time picturing how the trigger wheel attaches. Just clamps under the flywheel bolt up against the flywheel? Then what part of the crank are you drilling and putting a roll pin into/through? Isn't the crank end completely covered by the flywheel?
you would be pinning it into the flywheel not into the crank.
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Location
Glenmoore pa
I'm a little slow I guess, I'm having a hard time picturing how the trigger wheel attaches. Just clamps under the flywheel bolt up against the flywheel? Then what part of the crank are you drilling and putting a roll pin into/through? Isn't the crank end completely covered by the flywheel?
This is an earlier version but u get the idea. The pin goes right behind the bolt where I circled in red. It’s not even really necessary. If you are ok using a timing light, yes the cover never needs to come on and off. Just need to mark TDC somewhere so you can verify timing and adjust with static angle setting.
 

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This is an earlier version but u get the idea. The pin goes right behind the bolt where I circled in red. It’s not even really necessary. If you are ok using a timing light, yes the cover never needs to come on and off. Just need to mark TDC somewhere so you can verify timing and adjust with static angle setting.
What made you switch to the lower tooth count?
 

wikstromm

Washed up hillbilly
Location
SE
Why not do the trigger of 3 pickups coils? 2 for triggering like the tl/zeel and the 3rd for sync?, then it doesnt need a trigger wheel? Wich equals to less rotating mass on the crank?
 

wikstromm

Washed up hillbilly
Location
SE
Why not? Have you tried?
I know alot of high end stand alone systems that use 2 tooth + sync as trigger and it works great
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Location
Glenmoore pa
Why not? Have you tried?
I know alot of high end stand alone systems that use 2 tooth + sync as trigger and it works great
That’s the exact problem I’m trying to solve. I theorize there’s not enough resolution with zeel/etc to be accurate on these stroker motors with fast crank speed fluctuations.
 

wikstromm

Washed up hillbilly
Location
SE
Then thats a problem to solve then I guess, idont think anyone wants some additonal weight to the crank
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Location
Glenmoore pa
Then thats a problem to solve then I guess, idont think anyone wants some additonal weight to the crank
This little wheel is not adding much rotating mass. I’ll try to weight it for you this weekend. Plus u can chop the front off a lightened 760 flywheel if you want the lightest flywheel ever. People generally incorrectly think a super light flywheel is the best choice for performance anyway.
 

wikstromm

Washed up hillbilly
Location
SE
This freestyle engines wants the least amount of rotating mass, or the total of mass anyhow, and i dont think you ever get a way a lighter way then pickups on statorplate and a light alu flywheel, chasinng grams
 
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