NO LONGER OFFERING Custom Stainless HIN tags

wouldn't it be true that its not a full 316 piece of stainless? Its just surface altered? In that case what you have to do Wet dreams is seal it with something before shipping or find a supplier that sells 316 that is full thickness. I work with up to 2" plate 316L which we machine up to .5" off on mating surfaces. They are put in 100*F constant wet conditions and have zero rust on them after 60 years of service. Moisture can seep into the mating surfaces since its not 100% critical to be super flat and can sit there indefinitely . Therefor I believe that what you are getting is either poop steel or the laser is changing the properties of the metal during the process.
 
wouldn't it be true that its not a full 316 piece of stainless? Its just surface altered? In that case what you have to do Wet dreams is seal it with something before shipping or find a supplier that sells 316 that is full thickness. I work with up to 2" plate 316L which we machine up to .5" off on mating surfaces. They are put in 100*F constant wet conditions and have zero rust on them after 60 years of service. Moisture can seep into the mating surfaces since its not 100% critical to be super flat and can sit there indefinitely . Therefor I believe that what you are getting is either poop steel or the laser is changing the properties of the metal during the process.
Laser markings are known to increase rusting but I didn't think it would happen with 316.

I have two guys that will be testing these in freshwater and I'll make a decision at the end of April.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Its always a possibility but I trust that they sent me decent stainless. My laser setting could be the issue like you suggested. It's the only setting on our new laser that produced a black mark that looked decent. The other settings burned the hell out of the tag and left a really rough mark. I absolutely hate our new laser but it's the only one I have access to.

I can try tweaking it but I have no way to test what setting will rust faster. All I know is this one looked the best.....

Match the salinity to the gulf of mexico and make some test vats in some old pickle jars.
 
I have three product testers. I will be also running a sample in and out of water daily until the end of April.

No need for any more testers but I appreciate everyone's encouragement and willingness to help. I will update this thread with results end of April. Until then, if anyone knows of a supplier for some titanium tags let me know. I have a few emails out but no hope of success finding any good leads.
 
Ok my test are leading some informative results. Now I know my setting is the problem. It rusted almost instantly. When I developed it I used and acid test to make sure it wouldn't fade. That setting performed best on that test. I honestly didn't think that any setting would be prone to rusting on 316. I'm sorry for not testing for that.

Two settings (out of 128) are showing promise. They are dark markings and have yet to show any signs of rust so far. If those two settings fail the rest of testing I will be discontinuing my product. If they pass I'll be back in business.

That leads me to my request. I need someone to test these in saltwater. I am low on inventory so I can only send out one more test tag.
 
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You are a solid guy and we have spoke a number of times. I'm sure it will work out in the end. Love the shirts and other items I've ordered. Best of luck
Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate all of the support you have shown me. It hasn't gone unnoticed. its people like you who make me realize this sport is made up of a community unlike any other.
 
and are the new plates coming with BNG's?
Haha you must think I'm Yamaha! I'm not as revolutionary as They are. Thank goodness they are growing our sport with true innovation like bold new graphics ;). Never mind coming out with silly things like fuel injected engines and whatnot. Graphics are where the sport is!
 
I have lots of experience with laser marked 316 failing salt spray testing.
Have you tried passivation after marking?

Punch the numbers into the 316 instead? It won't look as good, but maybe it will survive.

What about a thin aluminum strip that is clear anodized? You can mark through the ano onto the substrate below.
 
I have lots of experience with laser marked 316 failing salt spray testing.
Have you tried passivation after marking?

Punch the numbers into the 316 instead? It won't look as good, but maybe it will survive.

What about a thin aluminum strip that is clear anodized? You can mark through the ano onto the substrate below.
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't have access to a punch to punch them. Also, I thought about aluminum but it corrodes too easily in salt.

The new settings have proven successful thus far, even in salt. If they continue to prove successful I will start marking them again at the end of April.
 
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