No more Brap??? Low-mid-high all gone

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Not shure whats wrong. I rode my recently bought 03 SuperJet today just fine, did a short fountain and a few hood tricks and my ski died.. normaly starts right up, but it took me a good 2mins to get it running. once i got it going i can only plane out, when i hit the throddle it just bogs down and doesent try to hit like it did. I thought i lost a cylinder?


A few days ago i bent one of my MSD boot termanals, but i bent it back in place and all seamed fine. Today that was the first thing i checked. looks ok, so i unpluge the boot that i bent and started it up, (only running one cylinder) and pluge the bent one up and it seamed like i was getting more power, so i think both cylinders are fireing? and not a cylinder/spark problem...




Here are my specs:
I bought the ski a month ago, not nowing to much about it, and its alsways seemed like it should hit harder than it is with all the mod..

701cc bored 2 over
wiesco pistons
44s with 46 mani and cross over is epoxied
tassinarri 2s
riva reed spacer
riva head 35cc domes
freestyle port by riva
wamiltons b-mod pipe with port macthing
jss coil and wires
jss stator
rad flywheel
msd enhancer
proks
dual cooling set-up


Thanks for the help, need to get this thing fixed for this big Holiday weekend!!!!

thanks for your time
-grif
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Did you get water in your cylinders doing the fountain, you may have bent a rod............

or, you have a bad contact on your plug wire, remove the plug cap, take off the crimp end, cut the wires back, re attach.............
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
i'm some what of a SJ noob so bare with me...

I pulled the plugs whcih were wet and gummed up.. and tileded teh ski a little past 90 deg. and no water came out.. right now i'm cleaning the plugs and going to spray some compress air into the head attempting to dry it out..


And here comes the no0b questions...
What do i need to do to check for a bent rod? and is the a crank rod or piston rod? or what am i looking for?


What i bent earler is the metal piece that sits inside my MSD boot. the ignition wires are or should be fine...



thanks Big
 

Waste Land

Non Multa Sed Multum
Location
Florence, AL
grifnasty said:
i'm some what of a SJ noob so bare with me...

I pulled the plugs whcih were wet and gummed up.. and tileded teh ski a little past 90 deg. and no water came out.. right now i'm cleaning the plugs and going to spray some compress air into the head attempting to dry it out..


And here comes the no0b questions...
What do i need to do to check for a bent rod? and is the a crank rod or piston rod? or what am i looking for?


What i bent earler is the metal piece that sits inside my MSD boot. the ignition wires are or should be fine...



thanks Big

After a foutin you need to give you ski a break and make sure the pumps are not pumping any water out. They take on so much and alot of throwing it around can injest water.

If the ski runs, I wouldnt say it was a rod. I dont know as much as some do so i could be wrong. If usually when a rod bends its against the crank/counterweight and will not allow the ski to run. This is just from my experience with mine....i cannot say it is or isnt 100%

I guess the next step would be to pull the head and see if everything is okay.

Again....do not take my opinons as facts

grifnasty said:
and is the a crank rod or piston rod?

Explain....thats describing the same thing
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
i'll check the head in the morning, ran out of light for the night.. :(

i was seeing if there was more than one rod.. jess not..

to check for a bent rod what do i need to do? do i just pull the 16bolts off the head and pull that entire block off? and theres the crank? also will i need to replace any gaskets?


my ski still runs ok at 1/8th throddle but anymore its not very graveful, just bogs.. so its deff. not sezed up
 

Waste Land

Non Multa Sed Multum
Location
Florence, AL
grifnasty said:
i'll check the head in the morning, ran out of light for the night.. :(

i was seeing if there was more than one rod.. jess not..

to check for a bent rod what do i need to do? do i just pull the 16bolts off the head and pull that entire block off? and theres the crank? also will i need to replace any gaskets?


my ski still runs ok at 1/8th throddle but anymore its not very graveful, just bogs.. so its deff. not sezed up

You could take you pick....

Pull the head to check for piston damage...which i dont think would happen on water injestion + it would sound horrible and you'd prolly know if it was metal boucing around. You'll need a head gasket if its a stock head, just reseal the orings if its aftermarket head

Pull the cyclinder...remove the head pipe(manifold and chamber can stay) and pull the 6 bolts holding the cyclinder to the cases then just lift up and the crank will be exposed. You'll need a new base gasket for this one.

If pull the cyclinder....go ahead and spray down the cyclinder with a water hose lightly and make sure there is no sand/dirt on it or surrounding parts. It'll keep ******** form falling in your crank case. This will help if your crank isnt shot and you dont have to open the cases.

This so far sound slike the crank to me...but i dont see how you could bend a rod and not seize the engine. Every rod ive seen ebnt was bent somewhat like mine. Oh well...we'll find out sooner or later
 

jetskiking

Im done sanding!!!
Location
Dallas Georgia
Possibly a bent rod or a reed problem?Have you done a compression check?To check for the bent rod. You could pull the cylinders which will require gaskets or use a dial indicator.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
How about checking compression first?
After that, put your removed spark plugs in the boots, rest them against the engine block and crank to see if you get strong spark in both.

If both those checks are okay, then I would tear into the engine. Not before.
Start with the easy stuff.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
have not done a compression check since i bought the ski a month ago... dont have any special tools...

is there anyway this could haev been just a fouled plug? and it will be running strong in the morning???????:highhorse:
 

Waste Land

Non Multa Sed Multum
Location
Florence, AL
grifnasty said:
have not done a compression check since i bought the ski a month ago... dont have any special tools...

is there anyway this could haev been just a fouled plug? and it will be running strong in the morning???????:highhorse:

go to autozone.....they'll let you use their compression guage.

but liek matt said...start with the easy stuff....check compression and spark
 

Keith

Landlocked
Location
Nebraska
Do like matt said. Do a compression test. The cylinders should read within about 10% of each other. Idealy 5% of each other. The compression # doesnt really matter unless it is really low. And check for spark by grounding your spark plugs on one of the head bolts. You should get a nice bright spark. Do this in a garage if you can with all the doors closed to get rid of the bright sunlight.

If you are not getting spark or if you are and it is weak or intermitant check your electrical. Which will be a whole different post. The specs for your engine are avaliable here. Just ask.:biggthumpup:
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Matt_E said:
put your removed spark plugs in the boots, rest them against the engine block and crank to see if you get strong spark in both.


your saying dont thread the pulgs into the head? and wile hitting the starter look for a spark? whast with teh resting agenst the engine block.. that mandatory???

thanks for the help guys
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
What all needs to be done for a compression test?

I can run it buy a shop but they charge $80 and hr just to look at it... so i want to have everything done so all they need to do is connect the guage and crank.

whast a resanable price if all they are doing is connecting there tool and reading a guage?



thanks you guys are great!!
 

Waste Land

Non Multa Sed Multum
Location
Florence, AL
grifnasty said:
What all needs to be done for a compression test?

I can run it buy a shop but they charge $80 and hr just to look at it... so i want to have everything done so all they need to do is connect the guage and crank.

whast a resanable price if all they are doing is connecting there tool and reading a guage?



thanks you guys are great!!

As i said before...Go to auto zone...they have a gauge on their loan a tool program you can do the test right there int he parking lot

Screw it in place of a sparkplug....full throttle while cranking the engine...it will show what PSI it has....dot he same for the other cyclinder and compare

Do not take it to a shop...there is nothing on that ski you cant do yourself and learn from or work with another forum member to learn about the problems and parts of your ski.

grifnasty said:
your saying dont thread the pulgs into the head? and wile hitting the starter look for a spark? whast with teh resting agenst the engine block.. that mandatory???

thanks for the help guys

Grounding the plug is nessacary....it needed to keep your electricals in good shape.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
grifnasty said:
your saying dont thread the pulgs into the head? and wile hitting the starter look for a spark? whast with teh resting agenst the engine block.. that mandatory???

thanks for the help guys


Holy crap, learn to type. :scared:
How are you going to see spark if you have the plugs in the head?
You're trying to see spark, hence you need to have them outside of the engine block. They need to be touching the engine so as to provide a proper path for the spark.


You have a shop manual, don't you?
Don't take this the wrong way - but I don't think you're the mechanically inclined type of guy. It may be in your best interest (time and money wise) to take that ski to a knowledgable shop. I'd hate to have you unintentionally break something. It's easy to do.
 

Keith

Landlocked
Location
Nebraska
Matt_E said:
Holy crap, learn to type. :scared:
How are you going to see spark if you have the plugs in the head?
You're trying to see spark, hence you need to have them outside of the engine block. They need to be touching the engine so as to provide a proper path for the spark.


You have a shop manual, don't you?
Don't take this the wrong way - but I don't think you're the mechanically inclined type of guy. It may be in your best interest (time and money wise) to take that ski to a knowledgable shop. I'd hate to have you unintentionally break something. It's easy to do.

He said he is new to this. Give him a break.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
OKay...take the shop manual (I think you have it) and spend some time reading it. It will really teach you some stuff about how it is put together, which will help you in the long run working on that ski.

Anyhow...get a compression gauge, test the compression. If it's not within 5-10 psi between cylinders, and below 150psi, tear down the engine.
If it's fine, check for spark. If no spark, check your plug wires, electrical box, etc.
If spark is fine, you may want remove your flame arrestors and pour some fuel directly into it. See if that works, and if it sounds/feels any different.
If it does, I'd pull the carbs off and clean them inside out. Also, remove the gas tank and drain it/clean it. Clean the fuel lines. You may have water in the fuel system.
If all this checks out okay, you may have a more serious problem. That's when I'd take then engine apart. But be careful, and TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Matt_E said:
Holy crap, learn to type. :scared:

I don't think you're the mechanically inclined type of guy.



Yeah i'm a horable speller, and when i start to type fast it gets into a big mess.


a little about myself, i'm 20, attending Western Carolina Univ, and halfway through my Engineering Technology degree... I love to see how things work and tinker alot, and i like to take all kinds of poop apart and put back together.. exc...

your right, i do not consider myself mechanically inclined, just handycaped because i haev never taken any type of engine apart, and do not know anyone that tinkers with engines.. well beside you guys of course <3
that way i wanned to buy something all ready mocked up:banghead:



thanks for the help, i'll let you know about the spark and compression readings and go from there
 
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Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
grifnasty said:
Yeah i'm a horable speller, and when i start to type fast it gets into a big mess.


a little about myself, i'm 20, attending Western Carolina Univ, and halfway through my Engineering Technology degree... I love to see how things work and tinker alot, and i like to take all kinds of poop apart and put back together.. exc...

your right, i do not consider myself mechanically inclined, just handycaped because i haev never taken any type of engine apart, and do not know anyone that tinkers with engines.. well beside you guys of course <3
that way i wanned to buy something all ready mocked up:banghead:



thanks for the help, i'll let you know about the spark and compression readings and go from there


Really, I was NOT trying to piss you off. I feel that in some cases, it is better to recommend a shop.
If you feel up to the task, take your time and do one thing at a time. Don't be fixed on getting it running for the holiday, be fixed on doing it right.
Good luck.
 
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